skydvrboy

Wind was 11014kt, but was very smooth, no gusts. It was really more of a crosswind than tailwind, but that's still almost a 5 kt tailwind component. I already decided I would only go in and out solo, at least through the summer. I can pick the family up at one of the nearby airports if were going on a trip.

I've moved my plane to a short grass strip (1KS6) a mile from the house so I can get into a hangar. I've been "on the list" at the other nearby airports for 9 months and I'm tired of leaving the plane tied down outside while I wait. The owner sold his last plane and agreed to rent me his hangar. The N/S strip is 2250' x 40' and in pretty good shape. However, crossing the north end of the runway is a 25' power line. The south end is much more open with 30' trees about 400' from the end of the runway. Does anyone know a good way to determine when to use the headwind and shorter distance vs taking the tailwind and the additional 400' before the obstacle? The performance data in the POH is pretty minimal to say the least. I've landed there twice so far, both times avoiding the power lines, once with a slight headwind and once with a slight tailwind. I've also taken off, also avoiding the power lines with a slight headwind. All were non-events with plenty of safety margin even with the 3600' density altitued. Any good rules of thumb or better performance data than in the POH?

Well, following the advice given here, I went ahead and purchased the door seals and adhesive. I'll put that in myself as soon as it arrives. Does this need A&P sign-off? I'm thinking it probably does, but it might fall under #10 Applying preservative or protective material to components where no disassembly of any primary structure or operating system is involved and where such coating is not prohibited or is not contrary to good practices. I also ordered the gear pucks. Now that I am landing on grass a lot, I think I want to get that and the tire done before annual. I'll see if a good friend and ex-A&P will help me change them out for a case of beer... with a sign-off by my current A&P, of course. Hopefully, I can get the seat belts installed before Oskosh and still have enough money left to get a good deal on an engine monitor while there. Thanks for the help!

FYI... I just tried the discount code on the Sensorcon website and it is still working. It has to be entered exactly "aircraft2017" for it to work.

I can't believe I forgot the shoulder harnesses! In my upgrade spreadsheet I gave them a priority level "1" as in right at the top. They were listed right under the CO monitor that I already purchased. I've already started doing that. Nuts missing on headset jacks, screw missing here and there, cheap used Whelen LED landing light when it came up on MS, new interior LED lighting, new door pull strap, pulled and cleaned carpets, etc. I probably have less than $150 in all that and $100 was for the landing light. The paint on there now comes off if I pull off the labels, there is very little adhesion. I think if I use some duct tape to peal most of the paint, sand the rest, and hit it with a self etching primer, I might be able to get the paint to stick. I like this answer, it's easy on the pocketbook. Just call it "character" and move on!

My plastics aren't so much broken as they are warped. They sag down between every screw and I haven't found anything on the forum for straightening the plastics. Can you heat them with a hair dryer or heat gun and then press them flat, say between some books? If I could do something like that followed by a coat of paint, they would look pretty good.

This is why I love MS. Yes, the story with the plane was that it was blown into a hangar. Log books clearly show both repairs and that was a point I had the IA pay particular attention to during the prebuy. He said he couldn't tell me anything about the first repair, but the second one was done correctly and looked good. The plane has been flying regularly since the repair, just not a lot of hours. I've already put as many hours on it in the last 7 months as the previous owner did spread out over 3 years.

Annual is due in October. I don't think I want to wait that long on the tires and pucks now that I'm based at a grass strip. I think the right tank has a slight weep. Mechanic thought it was from the sump valve, but replaced those at last annual with no noticeable improvement.

Wow, great responses, I've learned a lot already. Several people mentioned fly it a lot and I've been doing that already. The way I look at it, the fixed expenses are sunk. When only looking at gas and oil, flying it seems to be the cheapest thing I can do with it. Another thing that would factor in on replacing the pucks, I'm now based at a grass strip, 1KS6. Fun place to fly in and out of, but a bit bumpy with the old discs. Paul - you were the one that recommended this one in a different thread when I was thinking a JPI-830. Lower cost with all the same usefulness. I will be doing as much of this work as possible with sign-offs by my IA/A&P. It's tough for me to do an owner assisted annual though, because he wants it in his shop and only works 8-5, same hours I work. I thought about that. It's a bit more expensive, but I certainly don't want to put in an engine monitor now, only to realize later that I want a better one and pay to do it all over again. I'd like to learn how this is done and if I can do it myself or take it to an auto interior shop for a reasonable $$$. OK, this is awesome, I didn't even know this sort of thing existed. I'm still leaning toward the QT Halo, but that would be a great option for the headset with the screwed up cord. That was my favorite, but it creates a ton of static when using the PTT switch now. That could become the wife's set or the wife could take the Halo and I could use that one. I don't solder well, but we have a controls shop at work and I'm good friends with two of the guys there who would love to help me with it for a 6-pack. Does this do ADS-b Out and does it meet the requirements of the FAA mandate? If so, this seems to be the way to go. From what I understand, there is a direct swap-out for my transponder (not sure it was the Stratus) that will meet the requirements and requires very little for the install labor. Good eye! I removed that piece to experiment on. It was the one in the worst condition so I figured if I screwed it up too bad, I'll just replace it. Trying to figure out how to wrap with leather or fake leather.

As you will see, my plane has been somewhat neglected over the years and is in need of some repairs and upgrades. Below is a list of the things I think need to be done and why, along with a cost estimate. I'd like the group to help me prioritize these items so as I have the money, I can begin knocking them off the list. Also, if you see something else that needs taken care of, let me know what, why, how much and where you would rank it. Obviously, this is a money constrained exercise or I would just do them all right now, so please, no suggestions that I need to replace my entire panel with glass gauges or other high-end options. I'm looking for utility and function, not pretty and flashy. New tire #1, this one has pretty well reached it's end of life, so I have already purchased the replacement. No threads are showing, but it looks like this most of the way around. $160 retread tire and airstop tube (parts only). New tire #2, still showing tread all the way around. $160 retread tire and airstop tube (parts only). Landing gear shock discs. A&P says these are at or just slightly better than minimum spec to replace. Managed to zoom in on date code... 3/77. Yeah, I think their due. $1,199 for all 11 (parts only). Good quality headset. Here are the current headsets I have to choose from. The ASA sounds the best, DC is a single plug military with adapter, can't recall the other brand, but the cord has metal showing in places. $380 Quiet Technologies Halo Repaint. Probably a pipe dream at this point. I was quoted $14 AMU for a complete strip and paint from a shop with a great reputation. Would be cheaper for partial repaint, but would never match. Door seal, coming off in spots, cracked in spots. May be the source of minor CO (50 ppm or less, 0 in cruise) entering the plane (yes, I have a Sensorcon thanks to DanM20C) $40 for MD gasket, adhesive, & solvent Interior, as you probably saw in some of the other pictures, the interior plastics are warped, cracked, and have scrapes in the paint. As for cost, no idea on this one, from $15 for a can of spray paint up to astronomical for a pro interior rehab. Panel remove and paint, the paint is peeling off the panel in a few places. I could try to mask it off and paint it, but I'm afraid the surface prep would be insufficient and I'd be right back where I am now. Materials would be inexpensive, but I think the labor involved would make this a long project. ADSB install. I think the FBO had a Stratus put in their rental plane for around $3,000 and were quoted $500 more for in capability. FYI, the Apollo GPS back light is dead, no idea on cost to fix. Engine monitor, probably an Insight G2, $1900 (parts only) right below the CDI. Well, that's what I have on the list. Thoughts?

Yes, we have to stay away from the Monster retreads.

This topic makes me wonder why everyone isn't seeking out retreads. After working for a small retreader for a few years and then working for Goodyear for a few years I can tell you that retreads are hands down the better tire. Every airplane tire made (at least when I left Goodyear in '99) was made from a single compound and I don't think that has changed. As such, the manufacturer has to compromise between hardness for durability and softness for a smoother ride. When retreading, you can take a soft tire, like an aerotrainer and put a hard tread on it, giving you the best of both worlds. Add in the fact that the retread is cheaper because half the material was already there and you are left with the best tire value out there.

My AI asked for a partial payment for parts once they got over $4,000, but not labor. I thought that was very reasonable. If he had asked for labor to be paid for before the job was complete, I would have found that a bit suspicious, but probably not questioned it.

Last off topic post for today... I made it! The landing was easy, did a practice on our 4500' concrete runway before I went over and was stopped in 900' with just light braking. No braking needed on the grass and still had to use power to get to the wider part of the runway. The turnaround was the only challenging aspect, but I can confirm that my M20F will turn around in EXACTLY 40' on grass with enough right braking. As carusoam said, know where your wheels are. The outside of my tire lines up with a seam on the top of the wing well inside of the fuel cap.

I'd like to be added to the map and have access as well. Thanks

Don't want to hijack the thread, but yes, mine also turns better to the right than to the left. Nowhere is the runway wider than 40', though it narrows to 30' about a quarter of the way in from each end. The owner regularly flew his Bonanzas in and out of there until he quit flying at 92 years young. I'll give it a shot tonight, maybe I have to get out and push it back to make the turn.

Big city problems. Hangar space is a premium here in rural KS too, as I've had my name on a couple lists since last August, but at least the prices are reasonable ($85/mo for a T-hangar). My neighbor just sold his Bonanza and offered to rent me space his hangar (on his private strip) and match the price of the local airport, $85/mo. I'm pretty excited as my plane will only be a mile away from my house. Should be fun landing on the 40' x 2200' grass strip with power lines at one end though. Of course turning around once I've landed will prove to be the next challenge!

My CFI would say check the POH. Here's what my owner's manual says: "The yellow arc indicates speeds at which the pilot must exercise caution when encountering rough air or severe gusts. Rough air is considered to be a condition uncomfortable to pilot and passengers. Therefore, under these conditions, do not operate at airspeeds within the yellow arc." Sounds like they are saying, if you can take it, the plane can take it. On the other hand, I've had passengers who were uncomfortable with the bump of the landing gear coming up.

First time in the Caravan, first time to Oskosh. Taking my dad and son to make it a father-son-father-son adventure. Camping with the plane.

BIG thanks to all the safety pilots that volunteered to let us nuggets try to kill them and ourselves all weekend. I'm still amazed you could teach a low time pilot like me to fly like this.

I'm looking forward to meeting you all tonight. I'll be departing around 1730 from Abilene and arriving 1800 (I know, it's kind of a long flight). At least that's the plan, assuming I can overcome my excitement long enough to get my work done today!

I've said it on here before and I'll say it again. Call the FSDO and ask. We can banter back and forth about what's legal or not and about what they do or don't care about, but the only way to know for sure, is call the only guy whose opinion matters. Our FSDO rep is much more concerned about keeping you safe than trying to bust you for not following the letter of the law. I know, because I talk to him 2-3 times a year. When I asked about changing my interior bulbs from incandescent to LED, he told me "We allow you to do stuff as complex as changing a tire and packing the bearings, why would we care about you changing a light bulb." Granted, this was for an interior bulb, not exterior, but I know there are folks here on MS that question whether or not an owner can change an interior bulb to an LED. My guess is that he would say the same thing about an exterior bulb, but that's the point. What I think doesn't matter, the only opinion that counts is that of the FSDO, so ask.

You have to be logged in to flight aware to see position only flights. Log in and I think you will be able to see it. At least that worked for me. And well done on the dead stick landing!!!

Congrats on your new plane AND your PPL!!! I'm one of the new Mooney owners that was mentioned and I too got an F model. Like you, I had around 100 hrs and zero retract time. My insurance requirement was 10 dual & 10 solo before passengers. Some tips: Fly frequently, especially during your transition training, so you don't lose sight of things you learned in your last lesson. Fly a lot, most of your costs are fixed and your variable (per hour) costs are quite low. Every hour you fly the plane is cheaper than the last. I was comfortable flying the plane in about 6 hours, but my instructor tells me I'm the fastest learner he has ever taught (who knows, maybe he tells everyone that). Read your POH a couple times, read on MS about various power configurations (climb, cruise, descent), and when the two conflict, follow the advice of the MS'ers or your instructor. Chair fly a lot. And last, learn to do the simple calculations in your head. Example: If you are cruising at 10,500 and need to descend to TPA at 2,000, how far out should you start your descent. 500 fpm = 17 min. 17 min at 180 mph = 51 miles. So, start your descents EARLY!

My only bird strike was a sparrow sized bird on the wing root. No damage to the plane, but the bird pretty much disintegrated. It could have been much worse, my instructor hit a buzzard in his Cardinal and the entire wing had to be replaced. Nice to hear there was minimal damage and no injury.