Fly Boomer

This is the one Gee-Bee Aero uses: And this is the one from McMaster-Carr:

Let's let @mooniac58 know. Perhaps he can help. We like supporters.

Agree. They (some worse than others) screw up things that worked in favor of stupid little UI tweaks that I don't need or want. And, get off my lawn.

I thought the airspeed safety switch was supposed to prevent retraction if you are going too slow (like on the ground), not too fast?

Like these from McMaster-Carr?

Concorde says their RG series prefers 8xC1 (8 times C1).

Works okay on PC with Chrome.

I don't know much about lithium batteries, but if my alternator craps out after 5 minutes of continuous draw at 70 amps, there is a problem with my alternator. I suspect all batteries will draw whatever they can get from the charging system until the state of charge comes up. Maybe one of our EEs can weigh in here?

Amp hours is usually a measure of output capacity. A battery rated at 100 amp-hours can potentially put out 100 amps for an hour. In this case, the 264 amps is what the Concorde RG-35AXC will suck out of a power source (charger, other battery bank, etc.) if it starts at a sufficiently low state of charge. My point was just that the low impedance of the AGM battery, while not the same as a lithium battery, doesn't seem to be a problem for my charging system. If my airplane could produce 264 amps, my RG-35AXC could take it, and the Concorde documentation says the battery would prefer that high charge rate. Since my airplane can only produce 70 amps, if my battery was at a low enough state of charge, it would suck all 70 amps from my charging system and, while I don't know of a time when it did, it can apparently handle that large a load without damage.

Many of us use AGM Concorde batteries these days. Curiously, my RG-35AXC has a rated C1 capacity of only 33 amp hours. They like a charge rate up to 8x the C1 capacity (less time for sulfation), so that's 264 amps. That said, my RG-35 doesn't seem to eat alternators.

I was just about to reply that the modification seems pretty small for $230. The only potential issue I can see from the picture is that the nutplate appears to be plated or dipped, and the grinding would breach the coating. Does it matter?

How does it need to be modified?

Nor will you. After a long-suffering decline, they died a couple of years ago.

I have been eyeballing this one. And I would replace the wire rope with a 50-ft synthetic. Even a tiny 3/16 synthetic claims a tensile strength of at least 1,000 pounds. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-120v-ac-electric-winch-61672.html

That would require about a thousand feet of rope?