Bob E

My '65 M20C of course has an owner's manual rather than a POH, but it definitely also has an "F.A.A. APPROVED AIRPLANE FLIGHT MANUAL" (approved Oct. 20, 1961 for my specific aircraft serial number by H.H. Slaughter, Chief, Engineering and Manufacturing Branch, Federal Aviation Agency, Southwest Region). It lists all V-speeds as miles per hour of CALIBRATED AIRSPEED. But the "units," whether CAS, IAS, or TAS, are still in mph. So I think PT20J is right. But he's also right that no one will notice. I've had several AIs, CFIs, and DFEs as passengers, and some have flown left seat. No one mentioned anything about mph/knots on the G5s. (They mostly just complimented me on a nice panel!) I'm sure they know as well as I do that as a practical matter, reprogramming the digital displays to show MPH rather than knots would reduce safety: ATC speaks in knots, charts are in nautical miles, plates show elapsed time numbers for airspeeds in knots, etc. The risk of enforcement action on this one is basically zero. I'd be interested if ANYONE has a G5 or similar programmed in MPH, and if so what their reasons are for doing so.

My G5's are also in knots, but two factors tell me that's ok: (1) the original airspeed indicator shows both MPH and knots, so I had and still have all the info I need regarding MPH. (2) The Mooney's V-speeds are programmed into the G-5's airspeed ribbon, as pointers rather than numbers when the aircraft is in motion (photos), so knots versus mph isn't relevant.

We removed the clock and replaced it with the separate clock and timer you see at the top center of the panel. Timer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGYZBW8. Clock: It's a GH102A, hard to find now. Any LCD clock with a seconds display will do. None of the commercial iPad mini mounts are simple and compact, so we made DIY mini-ipad trays by pairing old Garmin yoke mounts with office-style steel bookends cut to shape. (Any stiff sheet metal will do.) Simple spring clamps at the top to hold down the iPads. Black duct tape over the clamps and in the groove at the bottom to cushion the iPads. We also routed a charger cord to each iPad. In hot weather we remove the iPad cases and charging cords to keep the units cool. We've had these for about five years and they've become invisible, just part of the aircraft.

47 U just said pretty much the same thing as this post, but a couple of minutes earlier! I'll post this anyway. ------------------------- Ok, where to start? First off, it's a nice Mooney! The irritating stuff can all be fixed. You can get replacement fuel-filler flanges. You're right, that's where the water is coming in, and new o-rings won't help. Replace the entire racetrack-shaped piece on both sides. You do it once every 30 years. I was able to find new ones 15 years ago and the filler flanges still look new. (I've owned my '65 C for 40 years now). Given the deterioration of the fuel-filler flanges, it's safe to say that this aircraft wasn't hangared for years (similar to mine until 5 years ago). That means the weak VOR signals are probably the antenna connector, either at the radio itself (likely) or at the antenna, or both. That's a really stupid avionics stack install. Whoever did it should have known better. The fuselage steel frame has a y-junction that takes up some space at the top of the radio stack (photos), which means you can't install something that has much depth at the top of the stack. It should be a fairly simple matter to reconfigure the install to take into account the y-junction. Just put something that doesn't have much depth at the top.

My son and I like the iPad minis, which we have for both pilot and copilot positions. The advantgage of having approach plates and all other ForeFlight info literally at your fingertips at all times, being able to zoom etc. without even moving your hands off the yoke, is preferable to anything displayed on the panel, at least for us.

I second Andy95W's post. Plane plastics is a great little outfit. They produce top-quality parts, each one made to order. The material on the replacement parts is just a tad thicker than the originals, so the replacments are more robust without affecting the fit. I replaced my flap/trim indicator housing, kick panels on both sides, and trim wheel chain cover. Super happy.

I guess I'd still recommend keeping the VOR even without a glideslope, if you have panel space. Especialy if you have a nav-com radio that's driving it. USB charger port is a great addition. If you use one or more iPads, they'll always be fully charged when you're flying. If you retain the cigarette lighter receptacle, here's a great little carbon monoxide detector; I've had mine for several years: https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Function-Monoxide-Detector-Charger-Adapter/dp/B07GH3612F/ref=sr_1_4_sspa

That VOR has a glideslope. I'd recommend keeping it, especially since it doesn't involve buying new equipment. I assume you have the panel space. (I have an EDM engine monitor, a GPS 400W, two G5's, and two KX-155's (one with glideslope). I like having the VORs and definitely like having the glideslope.) VORs and glideslopes aren't going away any time soon. It's good to avoid dependence on single form of navigation.

Same - and one thing I bet a lot of people on here discovered: Once you learn how to properly maintain an aircraft, you can maintain cars to make them last virtually forever as well!

I posted this back in October. I've used this excellent little CO detector for years. Have tested it every few months by lighting a match a couple of feet away. https://mooneyspace.com/topic/49675-cigarette-lighter-socket-as-usb-power-source/#comment-878225

I prefer the paint-on wingwalk. Easy to apply and long-lasting. Just in case, I poked each of the phillips-head screws while the stuff was still wet so I can unscrew them if need be.

If you are tired of the dot card but don't want the expense of certified/built-in: Posted October 7 Although I have a TSO'd USB power source built into my panel, I use the cigarette lighter socket for auxiliary USB power, and found a nifty little adapter that also includes a carbon monoxide detector. The CO detector has a digital readout (blue LED between the two sockets) as well as a very loud buzzer that goes off if it detects the presence of CO. It's on whenever the master is on, and it works great. I tested it by lighting a match a few feet away when the aircraft was in the hangar. That triggered a warning in about 3 seconds when the indicator reached about 20 ppm. Had it for almost 3 years now. It's on Amazon for $34. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCQR19G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Although I have a TSO'd USB power source built into my panel, I use the cigarette lighter socket for auxiliary USB power, and found a nifty little adapter that also includes a carbon monoxide detector. The CO detector has a digital readout (blue LED between the two sockets) as well as a very loud buzzer that goes off if it detects the presence of CO. It's on whenever the master is on, and it works great. I tested it by lighting a match a few feet away when the aircraft was in the hangar. That triggered a warning in about 3 seconds when the indicator reached about 20 ppm. Had it for almost 3 years now. It's on Amazon for $34. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCQR19G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For what it's worth, I couldn't find any commercially-available iPad mounts that I liked, so I fashioned a couple myself, using old Garmin GPS yoke mounts plus metal bookends, and a spring clamp at the top of each with duct tape to pad it. I've used them for about five years now. In hot weather /direct sun I take the iPads out of their cases.

My two cents' worth: Your panel is already nicely-equipped. If it's functionality you're interested in, there's no need to ditch the 430. It's Garmin canbus compatible so it will interface nicely with the FlightStream as well as the G5's and will grab ADS-B data from the transponder so you'll get the ADS-B display on your iPads. I love the FlightStream 210. You can enter flight plans or route changes on your iPad and they will automatically update the 430 as well as the copilot iPad if you have one. (As a practical matter you need to select procedures in the 430 and let them update the iPads rather than the reverse.) I have an M20C as well, and I prefer to have the G5's horizontal rather than vertical. Easier to scan, and it's nice having the HSI and glide path on the right-hand G5 right next to the 430 map. Horizontal placement also makes it MUCH easier to adjust the altitude and heading bugs, and the brightness if need be. The magnetometer for the G5's needs to be at the end of one wing at least a couple of feet from the position light (if it's an LED) to avoid interference. Here's a photo of my panel. It's a "poor man's version of glass" but it's very efficient, easy to scan, and intuitive. I use iPad minis not only because of the size, but because they are brighter. I take them out of the case in hot weather so they don't overheat. The empty space on the right is for a GFC-500 when I can afford it someday. I actually have a 400W (the 430 without the NAV/COM radios) since I already had the two KX-155's and I like not having a single point of failure.

If you're flying VFR, an autopilot should be way down on your list. You need: a good VFR GPS with Bluetooth such as the Garmin Aera 660 with a panel dock. It should be at the top-center where the audio panel is now. a digital com radio such as a Garmin GTR-200 or an iCom IC-A220. Get rid of the ancient Terra navcom and whatever that is above it. Think about whether you ever want to use VORs and if so get a navcom, with a VOR display to the right of the turn & slip, instead of just a com radio. a mode-S transponder that will send ADS-B traffic info to your GPS or to your iPad running ForeFlight As long as the attitude indicator holds out, just keep using it. When it needs an overhaul, that's the time to upgrade to a digital attitude indicator G-5 or an AV-30-C. Same with the heading indicator. Get rid of the DME; you don't need it for VFR flight.

Jimmy, your latest guide is far more useful than those menu-style "valuation" calculators. Yours takes into account the special aspects of value that only apply to Mooneys - such as the state of the donuts - and does so in a thorough and thoughtful way. Using your guide to come up with a REAL value for a particular Mooney will take maybe half an hour rather than 3 minutes, but going into all the details means that the resultant number is going to be realistic and not arbitrary. Many thanks!!

Central OH base annual cost 2023: My shop is familiar with this aircraft and has done the annuals for the past decade.

Very few celebrities actually own their own jets. They get more privacy and far more flexibility by using NetJets (which is essentially a huge private airline) or some other private jet service that guarantees them the right-size jet for the flights they need for the number of people they want to bring along. So in most cases, actually tracking a celebrity would require knowing which private jet they are boarding and when. Such info is almost impossible to find, since NetJets never discloses passenger info.

Before I could afford a hangar, my M20C sat on the ramp in Columbus, Ohio for 30 years. If you need tips on how to preserve a ramp Mooney, let me know. If you have the all-metal original factory throttle, mixture, and prop controls, unless there are problems that graphite lube won't solve, the only one I'd recommend replacing would be the prop control. I tried painting the throttle and mixture controls. Mixture control looks great. The throttle control doesn't take paint well since it's handled too much so I ended up peeling the paint back off. Replacements should be easy to find. Just search this forum for "vernier." Some people prefer red for the prop control and blue for mixture; not sure if there's a standard color scheme?

Same. Find a belt with solid leather, not bonded.

Yeah, when I reupholstered my seats with the Airtex set, that's when I also replaced the rollers. My AI entered the Airtex seats and really liked the nylon rollers but didn't see a need to mention them.

I think you'd have to cut off the flange -- there's no play between the sides of the roller and the seat frame holding the roller axle.

Ragsf15e: YOU ARE RIGHT! Thanks for this. My profuse apologies to everyone who bought the Grainger rollers and noticed that they're too loose -- I totally forgot that I also used bushings! Here are the bushings. I don't have the receipt but I may have gotten them from Home Depot. The cost was negligible. NOTE: You have to cut the bushing in half:

Maybe, that's an interesting point. I'm pretty sure they aren't DIY rollers, since the shop that did my annuals back then obtained and installed the replacements! Just for fun I'll check; I'm pretty sure I saved the old ones that weren't split.