Bob E

KX-155's are still workhorses in the GA fleet. Gulf Coast Avionics has a great avionics repair shop. They refurbished both of mine within the past 5 years (including new front bezels so they look AND work like new) and replaced the display on one of them with an LED. The LED is the exact same color as the plasma display so they look identical. Regarding Wayne's comment above, I didn't have the budget for an IFD550 so when I upgraded my panel, I kept it simple: Instead of getting a 430W I decided to get a 400W (same as a 430W but without the radios) and keep the KX-155's and their separate displays. That avoids a single point of failure.

This is (literally) the money quote. Since you're going to overhaul within in three years, why not do it now? You'll save the cost of piecemeal fixes, which would likely end up being more expensive than the cost of financing the overhaul. A zero-time engine will last for many years and will give you peace of mind - no more constantly hauling out the borescope and wondering which cylinder to replace next.

iPads are great, but you can't use one as a primary instrument in a certificated aircraft. Use an iPad as an EFB and moving map to display route, weather, and ADS-B information. Also, keep in mind that even the brightest iPad (the mini) is nowhere near as bright as instruments designed to be panel-mounted. If the sun is shining directly on your iPad it may be almost impossible to see. Otherwise, I agree with JohnZ.

So, SCPDaddy, it's fantastic that you've chosen a Mooney; you'll find that it has lots of advantages you haven't even imagined yet. You will enjoy it for years. Here's my perspective. I've owned my 1965 M20C for just over 35 years now. Bought it when I was single. My son (24) now has the keys to it and flies it frequently. He has never known life without a Mooney! He started flying right seat as soon as he was big enough to sit on a pillow and see out. By the time he started his flight training, he had years of familiarity with Mooney checklists, power settings, and handling characteristics. He trained in a 172. Why? He certainly could have done his flight training in the Mooney. It would have saved a bunch of money on rental, but the simple fact is, a Mooney is NOT a trainer aircraft. It's not forgiving of hard landings, it's fast, it's hard to slow down, it's not legal to spin, it has no right-seat brakes. Getting a PPL and taking the checkride requires a focus on fundamentals: FARs, maneuvers, navigation, radios. Sitting right seat for years in a Mooney is quite different than being PIC and being responsible for trim, mixture, prop, gear, communications with ATC, etc. My son and I agreed on this 100%. He found an excellent instructor, and by renting the flight school aircraft he was able to focus on the training without worrying about prop control, hard landings, etc. He found it extremely useful to become familiar with several aircraft rather than just one. Once he passed his PPL checkride with something like 50 hours TT, the transition to the Mooney was seamless. Adding him as a second pilot to the insurance cost very little; the insurer seemed to be impressed with our approach. If you've got the money to afford a Mooney, you can certainly afford to train and make your mistakes (and as Parker Woodruff said, do your hard landings) in a trainer aircraft. By the way, 37 years ago - like you - I also decided that I wanted a Mooney, but I trained in 152s and 172s as well. Same reasons. The photos below are out of order (I don't know how to fix that): my son at age 11, age 21, age 19 (the day he soloed), and age 23 (flying the Mooney).

Don't forget to check the separate Avionics / Panel discussion forum here - lots of ideas and suggestions.

Wow! I have been officially educated. Did the factory put the roll trim knob there? Never heard of that before. The light over the clock makes sense since the overhead lights don't light up the yoke. And when you think about it having the roll trim adjustment right near the turn coordinator makes sense too. Anyway, thanks for this info -- it's really interesting. (In the sense that the position of a roll trim knob is interesting only to M20 owners )

???? Since when do turn coordinators have adjustment knobs? That knob on your panel sure looks like the PC roll trim knob. Yours is on the left, mine is on the right:

Hi Paul, In your panel photos, that little metal knob to the lower left of your turn coordinator is actually the wing-leveler adjustment (roll trim) knob that was originally above the clock on the yoke. I'm not sure why someone would want to reposition it from the yoke to the panel; that's very odd. Check to see whether the knob is even functional: look under the panel and see if there are little pneumatic tubes connected to it. Maybe there are -- the little felt-tip pen mark on the turn coordinator bezel appears to be intended as the center position for the wing-leveler: align the dot on the knob with the felt-tip mark. If so, maybe the PC system can be repaired. If there are no tubes going into the knob, you should just accept that your PC system is disabled. The yoke-mounted temporary disconnect switch Marauder refers to in his post above is that little silver button at the top of the left-hand side of the pilot yoke. Back when I had the PC in my M20C, I'd hold that button down while maneuvering so that the PC system wouldn't try to level the wings at the same time. As you can see from the photo below, taken in 1986 when I bought my M20C, I had a rubber band over the PC disengage switch to keep it disengaged all the time; also a common thing back then. Many Mooney owners have disabled their PC wing levelers. It's ancient technology and expensive to maintain. I removed mine entirely when I ditched the vacuum system. As long as your aircraft is properly rigged, you won't miss it. (Recommendation: spend aircraft budget money on upgraded radios rather than fixing the PC system.) Regarding whatever that black thing is above your clock: Is that the PTT button you were referring to? If so, your next upgrade should be a PTT switch velcro'd to the yoke next to where your hand is. You shouldn't have to move your hand off the yoke every time you talk on the radio. See the photo -- I still use the same PTT switch to this day. BTW it looks like you have an iPad mini. You can rig up a mount so it will fit right on your yoke! (See other photo below.)

I have experience with something like that. At age 6 I too wanted to build an open cockpit biplane. At the time I hadn't attended any EAA homebuilt forums, so I was on my own. It was glorious. The first photo is the result (1956). The second photo is what it looked like to my 6-year-old eyes.

I'm sure they are squawking. Mike could teach them to squawk "1200! 1200!"

At some point I'd like to replace my gascolator. It's serviceable now but at some point in the future if that changes I don't want months of down time looking for one. Thanks for any leads!

Rental aircraft. Much cheaper and much less hassle. A student pilot shouldn't be doing a checkride for a PPL in a complex aircraft anyway.

It looks like the owner marked the original gauge "inop" and installed a standalone oil pressure gauge just to the lower right of the prop control - probably because he couldn't find a replacement for the one in the instrument cluster." Not a very good place to hide such a crucial gauge.

You're only 26 hours in? THERE IS NO RUSH TO PURCHASE! Don't make the mistake of putting yourself under artificial pressure and offering to buy an aircraft just because someone else is interested. That's especially true for a full-price offer. Especially, especially true for an aircraft that you don't know much about because you haven't done YOUR OWN pre-buy. Your enthusiasm is great! Don't turn it into regret by acting in haste. The aircraft does indeed look gorgeous, and the current owner is a serious pilot. On the other hand, almost by definition, you know far less than you need to know about that particular aircraft and about aircraft in general. For example, one thing you need to know is even if the aircraft is squawk-free when you buy it, you will still end up spending far more than you expect to make fixes and upgrades. Not only the engine, but much of the instrumentation and avionics are nearing the end of their useful life. Have you thought about insurance for a complex aircraft when you have less than 100 hours of total time? At the very least, make your offer contingent on an acceptable pre-buy, which will include an inspection of both the aircraft and its logbooks. If you lose the aircraft to someone savvier, quicker, and more experienced, so be it. The used Mooney market is nationwide. You'll find exactly what you need -- and MooneySpace folks are always happy to help.

Ok, I'll add my two cents' worth: The iPad mini (latest two versions I believe) has the brightest display of any iPad. The iPad mini is a perfect size to mount right on the yoke. I like horizontal since it allows an unobstructed view of the panel (plates can be positioned and zoomed), but some people prefer vertical so the whole plate is visible. 128 GB of storage is quite enough to hold the entire Foreflight U.S. database. A matte screen protector will almost completely eliminate reflections. The lock/unlock issue can be eliminated if you're running ForeFlight simply by configuring it to never lock while running the app. It's worth hooking up a USB charger port, either built-in or tapping into the cigarette lighter plug (whatever it's called these days), and then running a charger cord from there to the ipad on the yoke to guarantee continuous power. Much easier than worrying about %. On a bright sunny day the iPad will heat up quickly and shut down if not either vented (left knee vent directed up at it) or sunblocked (slap-on window shade). Preferably both. Avoid using a case on a sunny day. A two-way link between the aircraft GPS and the iPad is crucial (VFR or IFR). There are many variations; I use a Garmin FlightStream 210 to link to a GPS-400W via Bluetooth. The main thing is that ADS/B traffic, weather, and flight plans/approaches are all displayed on the iPad. Also, the ability to do flight planning at home and then transfer the flight plan(s) to the GPS unit in the aircraft via Bluetooth is fantastic. Changing waypoints or approaches on the GPS unit automatically updates the iPad, and vice versa. iPads are so cheap compared to aviation-specific equipment (priced in AMUs), that it's worth getting one or two, dedicated for use in the aircraft. There's no need to buy new! The next-to-newest generation or even newest generation can be purchased used and they still work like new! The FlightStream 210 (and I assume other devices) will accept links to 2 Bluetooth devices, so it's easy to have identical setups for pilot and co-pilot: 2 iPad minis, 2 yoke mounts, 2 charger cords. That also gives you an automatic, instant backup if one of the iPads shuts down from overheating. Try to mount the ipad as perpendicular to the ground as possible while still being easy to view. If you ever need the ForeFlight version of the artificial horizon, it won't work if the iPad is laid too flat. I don't know about you guys, but I have yet to find a nice, compact yoke mount, so I built my own.

The "other accessories" comment is spot on. The governor (like the gascolator) is easy to forget about, but it's crucial. OH time is a great time to check both. Mags = ditto. Engine mount = AD and double ditto. Absolutely crucial. That OH price is pretty amazing so it's a good reason to make sure all those other little things are taken care of. A great time to think about an engine monitor as well.

I hear ya. The one NASA report I filed was as a result of a situation when I was ready to take off from runway 18 (active) and did several radio calls on CTAF. Other aircraft had departed and had announced etc., and I was now taking the runway. Asked the Cessna pilot sitting on the runup pad at the end of 27 "are you going to take off from 27?" Got no response. Checked correct CTAF, waited about a minute and then called takeoff. Just when it was too late to hit the brakes the Cessna on 27 suddenly rolled off the pad and started his takeoff roll. I pulled up and cleared the Cessna, coming up fast to my left, by about 100'. Never did find out who it was -- pre-ADS-B.

201er, I'm wondering why that situation was so troubling that you would post such a long and condescending description of the other pilot, along with a gratuitous photo of some guy pushing a Cherokee. Your post wasn't in the Safety & Accident forum, and you didn't mention filing a NASA report, so it almost seems as though your post is an aerial version of a traffic rant: "That guy cut me off"! Your profile says you are based in NYC. I learned to fly at Teterboro and I've spent lots of time sharing NYC airspace with other GA aircraft (see my profile photo). The patterns are crowded, and especially in the NYC area one can encounter just about anything. Some examples of stuff I've encountered (not NYC airspace): Calling out pattern legs at night at a small field, only to discover - on short final - a helicopter hovering with lights out above the numbers on the arrival end of the runway. Flying over Ripon into KOSH and after rocking my wings, having TWO aircraft whose pilots apparently never even saw me cut me off at the same altitude. Here in Ohio after calling pattern legs and starting to turn final, seeing a private jet fly right in front of me doing a straight-in approach. This stuff happens all the time. Being a safe pilot means taking it in stride when someone messes up. Assume that they didn't do it deliberately but just screwed up or were distracted or both. A couple more examples: About 15 years ago I was landing at a major airport with a heavy crosswind, #2 behind a twin. The twin ran off the runway and buried a wing; fortunately no one was hurt. I simply did a go-around before ATC realized what had happened. Another time in the early 1990s I saw how an aircraft that was #1 for landing landed gear-up just ahead of another aircraft that was #2. The #2 pilot just broke off the approach. These sorts of responses to abnormal circumstances is normal situation awareness -- just do whatever is necessary to stay safe. No need to get annoyed. By the way the pilot of that gear-up #1 aircraft was me.

Earlier thread on this same topic (scroll down for the part regarding LEDs): https://mooneyspace.com/topic/39008-changing-overhead-map-light-bulbs/

Wow, Mooneydreamr, you're only two months in? Welcome to the club! Yes, definitely upgrade the pitot tube with a heated one. It shouldn't be too difficult to find a used one for a modest price; fortunately there are no moving parts so it's not like shopping for a used gyro instrument. Also since it's not an airworthiness item so you can find the part at your leisure and then upgrade it at the next annual. Installing the switch and wiring shouldn't be a big deal. If you plan on keeping the aircraft for a while, it's definitely a good idea to keep its cosmetics in good shape. This is off-topic regarding the pitot tube, but since you're a new Mooney owner allow me to give you some tips on what to pay close attention to -- based on my 33+ years of owning a '65 C: Cabin entry door: Always keep a small vice-grip in the cabin. The cabin door latch handle is mounted to a spline and held in place with a cotter pin or bar through the spline. That pin/bar can and will break at some point, trapping you in the cabin. The vice-grip is your backup door latch handle. Tow limits: If towing with a tug is unavoidable, make absolutely certain the person towing the aircraft knows about the nose gear steering limits! If they don't pay attention, you'll have to buy a new nose gear assembly and you might not discover it until later when you can't prove who did the damage. The gascolator and its gaskets need to be in good working order, now and always. It's quite reliable and is easy to forget about. Don't. Fuel cap seals (large and small) no cracks, no leaks. Fuel strainers: no leakage, no rust. Fuel tanks: well-sealed, no seepage. Birds: If the aircraft isn't in an enclosed hangar, birds love to nest not only in the tailcone, but also in the empty space between the bottom sheet metal and the passenger seat deck. They enter at the openings on the underside of each wing root. To make sure the mains aren't spinning when you retract the gear, press the brakes - assuming you have manual gear, just brace your feet a bit on the brakes when you're moving the Johnson bar. The Mooney is a very stable aircraft and performs well when it comes to crosswind landings, slips to lose altitude, and no-flap landings. But pay VERY close attention to weight and balance if you have more than two people in the aircraft. Keep a loading diagram in your EFB and consult it. Don't operate the gear or fly with gear down above the green arc, and don't fly with flaps in excess of flap speed; otherwise at some point you'll damage the equipment. Invest in good ANR headsets. Mooney cabins are loud and ANR headsets make flying much more pleasant (and probably safer too) Feel free to direct-message me if you ever have any questions!

Those screws aren't specialty hardware; they're just sheet metal screws. A small Phillips screwdriver should easily remove them. If they're stuck try using a mini vice-grip to loosen them and then finish with the screwdriver.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Just because I think some of the paint jobs I see on MS are elegant, and some are what-on-earth-were-they-thinking awful, I'm not going to say anything to the owner if I don't like his aircraft's paint job. It's still a Mooney! That said, my two cents' worth: Paint jobs last a long time. Avoid trendy designs that might not age well, especially if you plan on keeping the aircraft. Avoid clutter and conflicting geometry (i.e. straight lines that are aligned in multiple different directions, mixed curved and straight lines, etc.). Not only is the Mooney kind of stubby, but the vertical stabilizer also has a perpendicular leading edge. The paint job should complement the Mooney design, not conflict with it. That means paint schemes that elongate the appearance of the fuselage. Do extensive photoshopping to check alternative paint schemes, not merely general layouts but every detail: For example, if you use colored paint stripes, whether they are separated by 1" or 1/2" of white can make a huge difference in appearance. Few vintage GA aircraft undergo N-number changes. Forget about vinyl. Integrate the numbers into the paint scheme, and again do extensive photoshopping to consider alternative placement, italics versus straight, colors that are legal but still fit in with the rest of the design. Have the paint shop neglect to dispose of all the leftover paint containers so that you can end up with exact-match touch-ups. If the paint shop can get you the supplier's formulas, so much the better. Pour the leftover paints into new, well-sealed cans and find out what the appropriate thinner is.

Materials that make up the aircraft interior must pass certain burn certification tests. The exact test required is dependent upon the operation of the aircraft and/or the size of the aircraft. The maintenance record entry should state that the interior components – including the adhesives – meet the requirements of the appropriate regulations (14 CFR Part 25.853). In addition, a complete interior certification package should be with the aircraft maintenance records including all of the burn certification documentation for each piece of material used during the installation. The easy way to ensure compliance (and safety) is to purchase interior materials only from aviation suppliers, who will provide "statements of compliance" for the items you purchase, to retain with the aircraft's logs. You can do upholstery work yourself with approved materials.

I do have a few suggestions. In the 30+ years I've owned my '65 C my panel has gone through several upgrades, including two major ones. I've never owned an Aspen unit but a good friend has one in his C172, so these suggestions are based on our experience: If you're going to install an Aspen unit, don't install it vertically right over the yoke. Doing so makes it difficult or impossible to reach around the yoke and access the five controls at the very bottom while you're trying to fly the airplane. Installing it vertically to the left of the yoke would be even worse because the controls are even less accessible. Try to group the navigational instruments -- especially the ones used for approaches -- together. Doing so makes scanning easier and makes for improved situational awareness. One of your layouts has the RPM/MP gauge on the left and the VOR/GS indicator on the right. If you're going with an Aspen, installing it to the right of the yoke next to the radio/gps stack would address the above issues. It would also be more aesthetically pleasing since it groups rectangular displays separately from round displays and IMHO just looks nicer. To me a vertically-mounted Aspen display sandwiched between round instruments to the right and left has always been a bit jarring. An Aspen can be installed horizontally. Rather than an iPad off to the right, consider an iPad mini mounted right on the yoke. The mini has a brightest display of all the iPads and can be mounted vertically or horizontally such that you can still see the full panel. (Plates on a horizontal display are no problem because they can be positioned and zoomed). If you're going to use ForeFlight or Garmin Navigator with your iPad, definitely get a FlightStream 210 to synch your iPad with the GNC355. The ability to do that, combined with the plates right in front of you on the yoke rather than the panel, the ability to change waypoints instantly from either the iPad or the GPS, etc., is simply fantastic. For what it's worth, here are the compromises I ended up making on my current panel, which I've had for a couple of years now. The G5 serving as PFD is front & center. The G5 serving as HSI is right next to the GPS-400W to minimize the distance between them when flying approaches. That way they almost function as a single instrument. I have two KX-155's and VOR/GS displays to avoid single point-of-failure. (Which is why I have a 400W instead of a 430W) The empty space is wishful thinking at the moment; it's for a GFC-500 if I can ever afford it!