Skates97

I bought a set of the Alpha Aviation jacks about three years ago. I think it was just under $800 for the pair. In the grand scheme of aviation expenses that's not a lot of money. I spend that much in fuel for a couple trips to Salt Lake to see family and don't think twice about spending the money on fuel. I have seen a couple of very stout home-made jacks, but most I see are not something I would trust my plane on. I have a friend who often would say "Buy the best and cry once." In this case, buy jacks made for a plane.

Old Republic both years 2020 - $75k hull - $2053 Premium 2021 - $100k hull - $1860 Premium

Increased my hull coverage by $25k for additional avionics and a GFC500. Flew 170 hours and added on an instrument rating, decrease of 9.4% from 2020 rates.

Part 38 for reference.

There is a bushing and a bolt where the jack screw attaches to the tail. Over time it will get wallowed out and allow more and more play. Remove the covers on the sides to expose the hinge and the jack screw. Have someone lift up and down on the tail and watch what moves. Pay attention to where the jack screw attaches and you will likely see play there. You can get the bolt and busing from Lasar. After letting it go for a number of annuals my AP/IA finally decided he wanted to have it replaced so we did that a year ago.

And it seems every now and then a clamp will fail. After many hours of leak free flying I've been trying to find one. It's just tiny but makes a mess inside the cowl. On my last oil change I found a drip hanging from the oil return line from the #1 cylinder. Went to tighten the clamp and it was stripped. Replaced the clamp and all is well again. This is the best way I know of to find a leak. We did this but instead of just a ground run flew it around the pattern once. Yes, it can blow around inside, but one trip around the pattern doesn't blow it around much and with a black light you should be able to see where the leak is coming from. It is often not anywhere near where you think it is.

I second the www.myflightbook.com option. I started using it early in my PPL training. All kinds of options for reports and keeps track of your currency. Instructors and DPE's can sign your entries (assuming they are marginally tech savvy). I still have my paper logbook that gets signed for flight reviews but that's about all.

PM sent with some files, they may be the ones you already have.

Does anyone even have that Dukes pump on stock? That wasn't available when I had to replace mine earlier this year. I ended up putting in a new CJ Aviation pump. I could have sent mine off for a rebuild but this was a faster way to get the plane back in the air and it is a new instead of rebuilt pump. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/cjaviation-newex.php

Nope, but I am very careful to clean them before putting the tint on. 2-3 passes with Plexus and a clean micro-fiber cloth for each time. Edit: I think the tint has actually saved the back windows from scratches from the grandkids a time or two. I have found scratches in the tint but the window was fine.

Just like @skydvrboy said, also if you add a drop or two of dish soap to the water it will slide around easier when you position it. Stays in place, I have even put up cameras with the suction cup attached to the tint and nothing moves. When it gets old and you want to replace it just peel it off, clean the window, and do it again. I replace the stuff on my rear windows every couple years as it starts to get a little blurry over time.

I just have some squares cut out of leftover pieces of static cling tint from tinting my back windows. They work great, will move them around depending on where the sun is. https://www.lowes.com/pd/GILA-Glare-Control-36-in-W-x-6-1-2-ft-L-Smoke-Smoke-Glare-Control-Window-Film/1095827

I had the same thing in 2018. I ended up flying it a bit longer and then getting it resealed. the prop shop wanted to do an overhaul because of the time since new. After talking with them he said he would take a look at it when he got it and if he could just reseal it instead of overhaul he would. It was a new prop, new hub, never cracked open before and he ended up just re-sealing it and has been trouble free since.

You would need to move a couple things, but if you moved your CDI up next to the altimeter the EDM830 would fit there on the left side of the panel which is a better spot and also free up room on the right side. That is where I had mine until I switched it out for an EDM900. When I put the EDM900 in along with the G5's I moved it up to put it more in line of sight.

If it is like on my D there are different lengths depending on where they are in the cowling, some longer than others. If you look at the one on the other side in the same spot I think you will be able to see the numbers on the head and go from there.

The instructions that come with the kit aren't the best as far as the wiring goes. There is even some conflicting information from one revision to the next. If you email their support they will get back to you very quickly. I'm assuming that you are putting in the same kit that I used on my D. When I emailed them about the wiring this was their answer. I assume you are using the SAL12-70 generator to alternator conversion kit as it contains the alternator and replacement R1224 voltage regulator. I’ve linked the wiring diagram you would use for this installation. https://planepower.aero/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Troubleshooting-Single-Engine-Externally-Regulated-Alternators.pdf If you have any questions at all I wouldn't hesitate to ask them, they were great to deal with. When I asked about the differences in the wiring diagram he linked and the written instructions he said to follow the wiring diagram and there wouldn't be any issues.

I do the same. Once hand tight I put a little mark at the top (12 o'clock position) with a sharpie and turn it until it is at the 9 o'clock position. For removing I let the oil drain, and then stuff a couple old rags under the filter and once it is loose spin it off quick and turn it up. I normally only have a little get on the rags. In five years I've only been burned once with oil dripping all over everything. For a wrench I use this one, doesn't look like Amazon has it anymore but I'm sure it can be found at a lot of places. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBDW6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I went for my IFR checkride we got to the plane and the DPE said, "You go ahead and do your pre-flight on the plane, I'm going to do mine." He said he has had some planes show up that he would not get into.

I seem to recall Don Maxwell saying you could take and put a drop or two of oil on the shaft of the selector, if it was sucking air through there that would temporarily help. It is not a fix for o-rings that need to be replaced but a way to help diagnose if that is the problem.

After grumbling to my AP/IA one time about adel clamps he gave me this same advice. It ranks up near the top of the list of helpful tricks when working on your plane.

This might be of some help. Alex, @Raptor05121 did this some time back. I did the same thing following his instructions before putting an led strip below the glareshield and Nulite's on my instruments.

I fly an airplane so I do touch an goes, it also happens to be a Mooney. All joking aside about Touch and goes, I just try to stay out of the way of other planes at un-towered airports. I spent about 2 1/2 years at Corona (KAJO) which is well known around here for pilots that fly non-standard patterns, make short approaches without announcing, or just do whatever they feel like doing. My standard operating procedure was when in doubt just get out of their way and come back for another go at it.

GNC355 is stand alone WAAS and but is only GPS/COM, no ground based Nav. Something like a GTX335 for out along with a GA35 for the GPS source works. That only gives you ADS-B out, no in, but you can get in with a Stratux for a lot less money than an in/out combination. It really depends on if this is a "forever plane" or just a stepping stone to something else.

12/2020 - Up 37.05% (Did increase hull value significantly for avionics installations) 12/2021 - Down 9.40% (Increased hull value again for GFC500 and market adjustments but added an Instrument Rating)

This is a handy bit of advice to keep in mind if you have G5's installed. I had an instance when we took a flight, got back in the plane after a couple of hours and the AI did not power back up. I couldn't figure out what was going on, pushing the power and cycling the power off had no effect. The DG still worked fine. It was a beautiful day so I switched the DG over to an AI and just flew back home and pushed it in the hangar. With it in the dark hangar I was able to see that when I turned the power on there was faint light around the power button on the G5 telling me it had power, the screen was just not powering up. A little research online and I read about the long press, tried it, and it booted right up. I have only had it happen one other time and the long press fixed it. From what I read it is a bug that happens sometimes.