75_M20F

My oil cooler has been relocated, my oil temp runs between 170-180 as shown on my JPI even on hot days. There is some risk of FOD damage to the external oil cooler resulting in an oil leak which could result in an engine failure (some rationalization for ya! ) I took my F oil cooler relocation a step further. Notice the two piece 201 style ducting (the oil cooler is not attached to the baffles to prevent cracking).

I normally land with full flaps myself, the flaps on a Mooney are minimal at best so I use them all.

There is a small level of increased risk performing touch and goes over full stop landings. For the experienced pilot it should be fine, those with little time in type may want to refrain.

Thank you!

4,500 feet

Cruising along in my F and had a close encounter w a Carivan. They ended up going right under me. Got a verbal traffic alert from the GDL88 / GTN 750. I was in no peril, I just thought what an amazing advancement ADSB had been for light aircraft.

Bartman, If you have it trimmed to maintain your target approach speed on final that's really where you should leave the trim. The aircraft in a given trim / speed setting in the same configuration will seek that airspeed should you have to go around. Excessive nose up trim (in the flare) means on a go around you will have to add forward pressure on the yoke while trimming nose down ( to prevent a low alt stall), a serious distraction during a critical time. Wouldn't it be a great aid to leave it trimmed right where it needs to be for safe stable flight should you need to abort the landing? Just some thoughts, I only wish the best for you and all of those that reads these posts. I get the plane a couple feet off the runway, power idle and simply "muscle" it in the flare maintaining a level flight path with a nose high attitude ( adding incramental back pressure till the wing quits flying. When it is ( the airplane) out of energy it will touch down with no bounce or skipping. (Assuming your 1 to 3 feet above ground during the flare maneuver )

That might make a potential go around pretty interesting with all trim don't you think?

Saw this on another forum. Lycoming roller cam 1 1/2 years old w 300 hours on it w 50 hour oil changes found during teardown for a propstrike according to the poster.

Or one could just fly it weekly?

Linkage is new.

The cowl flaps are Lopresti as part of the STC they are made of fiberglass / carbon fiber. The cowl flaps are larger then stock J cowl flaps it appears. They seem to be overpowering the mechanism designed to keep them closed once I accelerate in cruise. If I put a small amount of pressure on the cowl flap control knob it is enough to keep them closed.... I am thinking maybe temporarily put a plastic clamp on the cowl control knob until I can get this solved.

Anyone have this issue? How did you resolve it? My cowl flaps will not stay closed at higher cruise speeds. The air pressure is forcing them back open. My mechanic put a stronger spring on them to help, but they still open. Has anyone had this issue? My F has all M20J parts operating the cowl flaps + the Lopresti STC cowling with larger cowl flaps then a stock J would have.

Thank you!

If you have electric gear you only need the tool for the main gear? Is that correct?

I second that, cover it back up with dirt pronto!

It appears to have been kept on a tiedown for years from what I can see.

I have this system too. It will sound the verbal repeating "CHECK LANDING GEAR" even at a high power setting if you descend below 150 feet AGL. It uses a microwave transmitter on the belly to sense ground proximity. It also replaces the stall "horn" with a verbal repeating "STALL" The factory throttle switch still activates the "CHECK LANDING GEAR" as well. As long as this system is operational I can not imagine anyone would land gear up with a lady screaming "CHECK LANDING GEAR" over and over in their ears.

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The seat is fixed and working, now on to the other problems....

I keep it simple on my IO360. No fuel pump, mixture stays in cut off, throttle idle or very slightly cracked open. Master on engage starter and turn engine over till it fires. Then bring mixture up to rich....

Yes, I think someone pushed down on it and bent it instead of pulling up on it like they should just enough to where the pins would not seat... I just reinstalled the seat and it is once again working. Damn passengers

Okay, I think I found the issue. The tube/bar you pull up on to disengage the seat lock pins (to move the seat forward and aft) was slightly bent out of shape on the sides where the pin attaches to it. I bent it back into shape and the pins are fully extended now. Will reinstall the seat and test tomorrow....

Thanks guys, I will take a look at these tips and see if it helps.