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MikeOH

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Everything posted by MikeOH

  1. 1 amu = $1,000 (aviation maintenance unit)
  2. Doesn't seem right. I've had my plane for over 4 years and no issue. And, no telling how long they've been on the plane before my ownership. I will say I don't let them 'snap.' When I open them I use my other hand to let the latch open slowly.
  3. @Bob R Did you see Skate's 10/16 post?
  4. As part of my walk-around I check the brackets and hardware on the flaps. If they were down I wouldn't be able to do that without crawling under the wing front the front. When I extend them before takeoff I can check for even and smooth operation.
  5. In my case, I had a bunch of time in an M20B when I bought my F; insurance was perfectly happy with counting my M20B experience. Picked up the plane from pre-buy after close and happily flew home. As others have said, you need to ask.
  6. I ground lean very aggressively. To taxi I need to advance the mixture, not the throttle. For run-up I do NOT go to full rich, either. I can't remember the last time I've had a fouled plug. Boost for start, take-off, and landing.
  7. I didn't learn to land well on my first try....or, my second....I'm sure glad they were in a rental C150 and not in my brand new to me Mooney! YMMV, but I doubt it
  8. Ok, you reweigh your plane and come up with a new weight and CG. What happens to your W&B sheet? Does all the listed equipment 'disappear' into a single conglomerate number? How do you assign new weights and arms? Or, do you 'assume' they are all correct (tee-hee-hee) and just 'fudge' the empty weight and CG?
  9. And, the lead time may be breathtaking, as well. I'd be more concerned with WHY the fuse blew, than with finding a suitable replacement. I'd just fit in a properly rated cartridge fuse; you can purchase them with pre-attached leads.
  10. Yes, it's a MIL-F-23491 style fuse. Can be hard to find.
  11. @Cody Stallings Would you recommend using the new NYCO grease vs. Aeroshell?
  12. Thanks for the warning, but I'm well aware of the dangers of over doing it and rupturing the seals. I'm just talking about the normal annual maintenance where two of the zerks are removed and a small amount of fresh grease is pumped in until a bit comes out where the zerks were installed.
  13. Do you want to buy a plane to work on, or to fly?
  14. I've told this story here before...I've had this issue since I first got my plane. First, I sent the prop in for reseal and they accidentally overhauled it (but only charged me for a reseal since it was their mistake) but it still leaked...sent it back and they resealed it for free,....still leaked! I lived with it as I had become educated by then about the problems with Aeroshell 6. I bought some Aeroshell 5 and at last annual had my A&P/IA add the Aeroshell 5 (mixing Aeroshell 5 and 6 is now OK per a recent Hartzell SB; excerpt below). Yeah, it still leaks, but not nearly as much. My plan is to keep 'topping off' with Aeroshell 5 at each annual and hope it improves even more. Meanwhile I just live with wiping down the prop
  15. I'm guessing he remembered to remove the cover on the GPS antenna
  16. As fast as they are, Mooneys won't even make book speed with gear and TO flaps
  17. Makes a TriPacer look downright sexy
  18. Sounds good to me!
  19. I sprung for the nice click torque wrench; $85 for a nice tool designed specifically for this task is totally worth it, and lost in the rounding in aviation terms. For removing the filter without a mess I first break the filter loose a few turns, then punch holes in the top side with a screwdriver, then put a thick zip-loc bag over the filter and pull it tight past the oil filter adaptor. At that point I rotate the filter 180 and most of the oil drains neatly into the the bag. After that I spin the filter the rest of the way off while in the bag. Slip the bag off the adaptor with filter in it.
  20. I bought my F with a past TBO engine, a few hundred hours later and it's still going strong, but...I paid a RUNOUT price. This engine is quite close to TBO, but the price is NOT reflective of that fact. Your $105K plane could quickly become $135K I wouldn't rush the purchase of a plane.
  21. @Tommooney Thanks, that all makes sense. It just didn't seem comparable to the OP's situation; I was thrown by "similar reasons."
  22. @Tommooney Help me understand the similar reasons...CMA is towered and has a 6000 foot runway (OXR is 5900) with a bunch of instrument approaches down to 250 feet, same as OXR. Why would you drive the extra 15 miles?
  23. I have an M20F and installed the Tailbeacon just before the deadline and have been VERY happy with it (built in GPS, so no compatibility issues). Works just fine with my old KT76. Best part is that, all in, under $2300. Then I bought a $200 Scout for ADS-B In which is wireless to my iPad with Foreflight. Works great for traffic and weather. I have no regrets.
  24. My $0.02: I think you are doing yourself a disservice by trying to use this device to improve your landings. You need to focus on the outside view to learn proper landing perspective; dividing your attention with this thing is only going to prolong learning and possibly become a crutch. IMHO, a lot of learning to land well is judging closure rate as well as height. Trying to judge closure rate by looking at an AGL altimeter isn't going to work. I think the MAPA PPP is the best solution! Good luck!
  25. Honestly, unless you're shooting CATII approaches I've never seen the need to know AGL. And CATII needs a certified radar altimeter. This thing only works below 130 feet. Other than landing, I'm not real keen on flying below 130 feet, and if I did, I'd damn sure be looking OUTSIDE the airplane, not at this thing
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