MikeOH

Thanks, guys! Too myopic to figure out it was the fuel pump! Makes perfect sense. Should it be loose? It kind of rattles around when I grab it and move it.

Naturally, I don't have a picture...so, this may be bit more challenging 1970 M20F When I was in the middle of my oil change fiasco, with the filter off, I noticed a part that was below the filter and and slightly offset to the pilot's side. It had a small diameter hose (1-2 inch) connected to it that came from the upper plenum on the pilot's side (I.e., the high pressure source of air to this unknown part). It looked like some kind of 'duct' of an odd shape to cool something, but what? The mags and the vacuum pump are above it... I've looked through the parts manual but can't locate anything in that area. The top of this part is close to round and its top is soldered on, but I couldn't really see the rest of it. It seems like it is over something that I can't see, either. It's also a bit 'loose' rather than solidly secured which is what is troubling me. I'm concerned that it has fallen out of some proper position, (cool the mags??). Any ideas?

Man, did I ever need to hear that story! Thank you!! I'm feeling much better

Yuup! That was the missing element. I should have made a "How do I NOT make a MESS" post before embarking on this adventure!

@PT20J Oh, I was smart enough to put the safety wire on the filter adapter BEFORE putting filter on. But, between working around the mags and vacuum pump, and the other wire already there, it took me awhile! I couldn't even tell where the other safety wire went! I was SUPER careful when I cut the old wire as I was afraid of cutting the other wire by mistake and having to redo that one!

Thanks, Hank! I was having trouble picturing how the flashing was 'installed.' Your procedure has you test flying before re-installing the cowling....hows' that workin' for ya?

Thanks, but it's the IO360A1A, and there was clearly a BUNCH of oil still in the filter after two days. Hard to say for sure, but the filter seemed to be angled slightly down towards the rear; i.e., the oil would NOT drain out of the filter no matter how long you waited. I'm wondering if the poking holes in the filter, bagging it with tape, and rotating to drain would actually work?

Thanks, but I'm having trouble picturing what and where, exactly, the cardboard goes?

I waited two days after draining, as well. I had the baggie all ready to go, but couldn't quite figure out how to seal where the filter mates to the engine; that's where all the oil came from. I'm wondering if I should poke holes in the filter at the top, then seal a bag around the filter, loosen and rotate the filter 180 degrees and let the oil drain into the baggies before losing the seal to the engine.

HAH! I chickened out! I had it done in January at annual, so I figured I. could 'cheat' this one time

Ok, so I've owned my Mooney for three years but I have never changed the oil myself. The CB in me was NOT happy with this situation so, I thought, time to DIY! How hard could it be? Draining the oil was a piece of cake thanks to the quick drain some considerate PO installed! I literally did not spill a drop...ANYWHERE! Now, we get to the oil filter...clipped the safety wire at the filter, no problem. Stuffed a bunch of rags under the filter and unscrewed the filter...OMG! Oil down the back of the engine, down the shock discs, down the nose gear, onto the tire, puddle on the ground! SHEEESH!!! Cleaned up best I could, but lots of places my arm just couldn't get to. What did I do wrong??? More whining: What was the designer thinking putting the safety wire tang at the BOTTOM of the filter adapter??? Good grief, why wouldn't the damn thing be at the TOP where you can see and easily thread the safety wire through? Must have taken me 15 minutes to blindly get the damn wire through the tang by feel. Part of the problem is that there was another safety wire going through the same tang. Does two wires through one tang sound right? I've got better than 2 hours in the project and still need to do the run-up to check for leaks and put all the cowling back on, then cut open the old filter! I may just pay the shop the next time!

I have a Scout and it works just fine with my iPad for traffic and weather. ADSB-Out with a TailBeacon Under $2500 installed, with tax, for both. Happy camper

Does anyone actually look at the fuel selector?? I reach down and turn it through the "off" detent to the right/left detent as desired. I want to "feel" it drop into the detent; no point in looking.

Thanks,...I think

Another Garmin subscriber here...had to buy the reader/programmer.

Do share!

Hmm, it looks like the Nickson's Machine Shop/president was playing fast and loose with the employees' 401k funds! https://www.dol.gov/newsroom/releases/ebsa/ebsa20140820

This wouldn't bother me a bit, but I'd sure use it during negotiations. For reference, when I destroyed my elevator in an embarrassing hangar rash incident, it cost me $2K to find a used one, shipped to me, stripped, painted, rebalanced and installed.

Plus one to finding a depiction of "proper setup." At first glance the spring in the foreground looks like it might be rotated 180 degrees. It looks like there is very little clearance between the vertical portion of the spring and the pipe. Rotating the spring would put that part of the spring clear of rubbing on the pipe.

Very wise...getting the right plane the first time! Just realize the F J and K have the same space. And the F and J are both the same 200HP. Finally, newer Fs may not be much older than some of those Js and Ks! We're talking nearly 50 year old aircraft....condition and recency of use are more important than calendar age, IMHO.

I'm going to pile on with recommending an F. The way you've described the conditions you will fly in there's no need for a K and I think a J is just spending money you don't need to. The F will perform nearly the same. Further, I don't think the K is going to, practically speaking, reduce your commute time significantly. I paid around 1/3 of your budget and got WASS and A/P...but no fancy glass stuff; just wasn't important to me. Rags is spot on with the annual budget: you need to be good with 20K per year. I've been a bit under that, but I am willing to get my hands dirty.

I suspect one of the reasons for 6 is the false claims of "facts" by lawyers as exemplified by 5. There was NO evidence the vacuum pump died per the NTSB report. According to the report the copilot AI was operating and there was other evidence of proper vacuum. Yet, IIRC, Parker-Hannifin got stuck with paying out! They exited the vacuum pump biz after that. i can't blame them.

I just knew GILL batteries were good for something!

I must question that logic on two fronts: 1) Lack of any evidence that the time involved 'is a wash.'. You certainly CAN spend months looking, but if you have realistic expectations (you will NEVER find a plane EXACTLY like you envision in your dreams) and are truly committed to buying (not just kicking tires) there is no reason for the buying project to take the time a complete avionics upgrade requires. 2) If you spend the time in the shop you WILL be spending money WITHOUT the benefit of actually flying the plane. IOW, the fixed costs are going to be with you from the day the sale closes.

Hmm, only in the world of over priced aviation products would a 1000 ppm failure rate be deemed good Thanks, but I'll stick with the massives.