MikeOH

So, why should I pay a big mark up for you to buy the same part I can, for less, when you won't even stand behind it? I believe in paying a fair price to a mechanic for his skill and knowledge; paying that rate for him to find and buy parts that I can, and then marking them way up...not so much. I work with mechanics that don't mind me finding parts and, if they do source them, I have no problem with around a 15% mark up.

Can we assume that if the part fails (that we paid you to research, buy, and mark-up), you will cover the cost of a high quality replacement AND all the labor to R&R?

Hmm, I'm in California and don't think I'm paying more because of it. Curious why there would even be a difference? Is the accident rate higher for planes in/from California? I kind of doubt it.

Why are you shotgunning this, rather than troubleshooting?

YOWZER! That's insane. Not sure how much time in type you have, but it still shouldn't be that crazy high. I'm $70K hull and am paying around $1600. You need to talk with @Parker_Woodruff

I'm pragmatic and would consider OPPs on a case by case basis. In this case: Yes, I consider the disks to be "stupid expensive" It wouldn't bother me one whit if a plane I was considering had these donuts. I would want their installation documented in the log.

Hmm, regardless, I'm not sure I'd do biz with a company that would charge $20 shipping, per disk!!! I mean, come on, if you want $70 per disk, just say so...don't make a lame attempt to hide it by tacking on a ridiculous 'shipping' charge!

Ditto to EricJ's comment. It is a common misconception that CBs are there to protect the load; not true. They are sized to keep the wires from being damaged in the case of a short/too high current draw downstream of the CB. Absolutely no reason to downsize the CB just because you put in an LED low-draw light.

My 70F had both when I bought it: G3 Insight Engine Monitor and an EI FP-5L fuel totalizer. I'd be hard pressed to pick one over the other. IMHO, you'll never directly get your money back. But, knowing the operating condition of your engine at all times is worth it; I'd buy both.

Yeah, but whirly-birds have the accident record to justify the premiums!!!!

The term is, "Full rental power!"

Nah, too slow! This is what you need (fastest ship in the galaxy per Han Solo!):

Good question! I need to check. IIRC, there is a color 'stripe' that indicates...what color is chrome? Naturally, sitting here on the couch, I can't remember what color is on mine!

Hmm, never considered that. I think I'm going to try replacing the vernatherm first. Then consider a new cooler.

@GeeBee Great article! Now, I'm wondering if I have a blow-by problem! I use about a quart every 6-8 hours, and it turns black pretty fast. But, compressions are all above 75. Is there a specific test for blow-by to determine if it is excessive?

@carusoam Makes sense. However, item 4 on my already done list was having the oil cooler overhauled by Pacific Oil Coolers. Made zero difference.

Hmm, a little confused why this is now your problem. You had a WORKING Hobbs when you took your plane to the installer...now it is broken. The fact that it is "an unusual type" doesn't seem persuasive to me; it was working just fine. My minimally educated guess is that the installer accidentally or intentionally (as you say, signal source gone) disconnected one/some of the wires. But, as carusoam says, it's usually the oil pressure or airspeed. Again, I'd discuss with the installation shop...they should make it right, IMHO.

Oh, I'm thinking it'll take more than a little; contractor pack, I suspect

I am NOT an A&P, so this is just my concerned opinion: I agree with Greg that randomly retorquing in random order is not a good idea. Further, the fact you could not achieve the proper torque after 'a few turns' REALLY concerns me! Perhaps if they were not properly torqued initially, but if they 'loosened' on their own...I'd be worried something bad is going on. Finally, when was the engine OH'ed? The general appearance seems like quite a bit of time, if not hours, has gone by since OH.

True, that

Looks like it managed to free itself up, though

Then, don't go to the doctor! Problem solved

@Joann Check your PMs

I believe I have the P5000, so not sure if the following is applicable. My last oil change I absolutely could not get the quick drain to stop dripping despite 'snapping' it shut many times. I texted my A&P friend and he had me put the drain hose back on, then while holding the quick drain open, blow hard into the drain hose. Like magic the drain then sealed perfectly! He said that while draining a little crud can lodge on the seat and the air clears it.

@a64pilot Yet, again: I have replaced the hoses to/from the oil cooler. I have had my A&P check the seat and the vernatherm. Now, I know the oil cooler was overhauled as I took it to, and picked it up from, Pacific Oil Coolers personally. I could see that the baffles and oil hoses have been changed. BUT, I really do not know what my A&P did when checking the vernatherm and seat. So, at this point, I'm just going to replace the vernatherm with new and check the seat myself. I have a friend that is an A&P who is willing to supervise and sign off. They're like 0.3AMU and I just don't feel like screwing around soaking and measuring the one I've got. I will check washers! Never thought of that, thanks!