MikeOH

Hmm, buy it for $20K, put $60K into it...I'll pass, thanks.

At least that long!

And, I would suggest, even for those who can summit Everest without oxygen, not holding your breath

Christmas? Are you sure you don't mean April 1st?

I have an Insight G3 (came with the plane) and really like it for its data logging (easy upload from the SD to Savvy for analysis) and setting LOP (CHT/EGT). Beyond that, I don't pay much attention to it as I have a EI FP-5L for fuel management (which I also really like for its simplicity). I've never really used the vibration/acceleration features. Nor, do I have any experience with any other engine monitor but I prefer the G3's color display and the use of color to show CHT vs. EGT. I think the JPI700 is just older tech gas plasma monochrome display. Not sure of the price difference, but I suspect most of the cost is in the install...there're a lot of wires to run and sensors to install. Good luck!

@ShuRugal Uh, what part of "Granted, unlikely..." was not clear?

Granted, unlikely, but the risk is that a FUTURE IA doesn't view it the same way. If the part has an MS/AN number on it, that can't happen during an annual.

@Andy95W I think you are being wise. Even if the underlying P/N is the 'same', the MS designates quite a bit beyond the part itself; namely, control of materials and process, along with production testing requirements (Group A and B), as well as ongoing long term testing (Group C and D). Also, the design must go through qualification testing before being given MS approval (QPL/QML) prior to production. The 'commercial' part may, or more likely does not, have this level of screening and quality control.

In that case, I'm going with "red herring" territory

Yes, that is quite odd. To add to what EricJ said, that 'break' symbol is also used when part of the bus is shown elsewhere on the schematic (with additional loads). Can you confirm that the 5th CB from the left is for the fuel pump?

1700 rpm for 1 prop cycle. I just want to prove the governor works to reduce rpm. I suppose if it was REALLY slow in responding I might run another cycle, but that hasn't happened. Another fan of a Mag Grounding check after EVERY flight. I've been doing that for a couple of decades; never had a failure until about 6 weeks ago. Turned the key to off and boy was I surprised when the engine kept right on idling It ended up being a frayed shield on the left mag points that had finally failed open.

LOL! I had the same problem; drove me nuts! Since I've been following this procedure it hasn't happened again: 1) Unlock door (assuming you keep it locked as I do) 2) Unlock and open baggage door but leave the keys in the lock 3) Perform pre-flight/pull plane out of hangar. 4) Close and lock baggage door and remove keys, AND keep them in your hand 5) Climb in the plane and put the key in the ignition switch! QED

Thanks! No 'must leave' date; I think that is a bad combination with light GA flying.

Yeah, I have a cheapie left in the plane by the PO; never a noise issue, but it doesn't quite keep up with what my iPad Pro 10.5" needs. But, for bladder range flights (i.e. around 4 hours) the charge has never gone down by more than 10%. IOW, fully charged and with a large mouth Gatorade bottle I'm good to go for max endurance without iPad worries

There used to be about 1/8" of play when I lifted up the tail cone; I thought it was okay because I'd 'been told' that 1/4" was okay, and had flown a rental Mooney for many years that had about 1/4" After repair (I think the jack screw was replaced) I have an undetectable amount of play when I try to lift the tail cone. Until this thread I had actually never heard of the measurement/play in PT20J's cited reference!

Just the confirmation I needed. Thanks much! Important thing is the wife is okay with a couple of days; socked in for a week...would not go over well!

Interesting. When I get the pops after landing/during taxi I just enrich the mixture slightly and they go away. (For me, hours on mags and plugs are irrelevant. I had the issue before I overhauled the mags and put in new plugs. Still happens.)

I commonly have lean pops while taxiing, especially in hot weather, but I aggressively lean on the ground. However, idle is always smooth.

A bit over 4 years ago I did exactly what you are contemplating: bought a Mooney with a technically beyond TBO engine, but with a bottom end (new cam, lifters, bearings) done 600 hours prior; and all cylinders replaced at some point since then. The previous owner had flown it 100 hours per year for the last 13 years, and it was hangared the whole time. After having looked at many dogs over a longer period of time than I care to admit, and losing out on a couple that were not dogs because I was hesitant, I jumped on my plane. Yes, you have to accept (and be able to afford) an overhaul at any moment but, frankly, that can happen to an engine with any amount of time. Honestly, I felt more comfortable buying a plane that was continuously flown and well maintained than one with a 'fresh overhaul' put up for sale with no real use in the past few years. Good luck! P.S. I've now put 400 hours on the engine and it burns under 1 quart in 10 hours, compressions in the high 70s,... I'm in zero rush to OH; I have a Insight G3 and upload all my data to Savvy and will wait until I start to see indications of a problem. P.P.S I've been extremely happy with the service and advice from Savvy. I think using them to manage a pre-buy is an excellent idea.

Looking for wisdom from locals near Sun Valley. Wife and I planning on a flight to KSUN in early March and I'm unfamiliar with local weather and storm patterns that time of year. We are traveling from southern California. What's a good number of days to allow at each end of the trip for weather? While I'm IR, I'm thinking IMC that time of year in a non-FIKI plane is a seriously bad idea!

When my 430W bricked, it cost a flat $1200 (that was two years ago), and I had to go through a Garmin authorized dealer, which was nice as they took care of all the paperwork, packing and shipping. I'd fix it again before I'd drop $13K on a 650xi, plus install. All the 'cool kid' toys just ain't worth to me. YMMV

Hmm, "alter the starting procedure to accommodate existing conditions" sounds a bit vague to me; kind of begs for the application of your voodoo technique! Just like the IO guys hot start techniques.

Oddly, page 3-9 doesn't seem to mention "wind and set clock" nor "don headset"

Hmm, then care to share what page of your POH this COLD start procedure came from: "Run electric pump until fuel pressure peaks and holds, then turn it off; mixture rich; pump throttle 5 times; wind & set clock, don headset (to give cold fuel time to vaporize in the carb bowl); turn the key and push. If it's really cold, like when I lived in West Virginny, spin the prop by hand a couple of rotations first."

Up $28 from last year. I'm a pretty happy camper The previous couple of years were NOT kind.