mike20papa

You look to have an unusual heater duct set up. Are you sure this doesn't control a butterfly valve associated with that duct set up? You other C model owners have pilot side heater duct that looks like this? Looks like the round duct in the background is going up to the windshield defroster outlets.

These are "out of the box" Vans - right? With the James Holy Cowls Plenum makes an unbeatable installation. To bad it's a "no brainer" to everyone except the FAA! They should be aiding you to develop the STC - instead of beating you to death with regs and paper.

I built a new one of these, but I remember the allowable space between the door edge and the fuselage opening was very limited (when closed). I had to use like .040" hinge blades and then it just barely fit. Used 4130 in order to get the stiffness required. The hinge pin/assembly has to be kept to an absolute minimum width. The best thing I did was get rid of that old rolled junk door hinge and replace it with an extruded 2024 hinge.

The higher strength aluminum alloys are just prone to intergranular corrosion. 7075 even more so than 2024. The spar caps are 7075. 6061 is the more inherently corrosion resistant alloy. Used on truck parts and architectural applications .. and Sonexes! At a small weight penalty. I 've read Mooney had to go to using 7075 in the wood to alumn wing conversion to not end up with a pig. Don't forget that a source of moisture is condensate. You carry a wing load of warm moist air up to the condensate layer and it condenses out moisture to hang on all those inherent seams and overlaps on a alumn fabricated structure. Alumn. is actually very heavy relative to it's stiffness for a given section - compared to a composite - wood, etc. Aircraft structures have deflection limits that typically rule in design. Again, alumin. is not the best choice, add the corrosion problems of the higher strength alloys, well - it's why I went looking for a wood wing Mooney. Hughes built the wing of the H1 out of wood, not because it was cheaper and it was all he could afford.

I'm based here in Bryan, KCFD. Ever feel like avoiding the class D or buying some less pricey 100LL - fly-in. I'll show you my A model - take you for a short hop. Joe

N8335E - Always in a hangar - the AD, Mooney Service Bulletin M20-170a, Part III covers the wing inspections. The majority of this SB covers the wood tail - either inspection or replacement.

The truth is .. Mooney Inc. needs to submit the original drawings for the M20 and M20A to the Smithsonian. This is the official repository for historic aircraft and accessible to the public for nominal fees. In the factory would only submit the wood wing and empenage drawings, that would be a start. I've been trying to piece together a set of drawings and some of mine are faded beyond use. Even the drawings are hand build jewels - beyond "modern" drafting capabilities. I also wish the factory would release any other documentation on the wing construction, like photos, only the one exists on the internet. The wing really is a masterful engineering solution. The piece count is very low, the concept of preforming the wing skin, the spar being built up as opposed to solid, etc. Revolutionary at the time, now a model for other composite wing structures.

Flew mine just an hour ago during the lunch "hour" - local and into KCLL. Based in Bryan Tx KCFD. Serial #1513, N8335E Agreed, they are great performing AC.

Don't forget about the cost to transfer the STC to your N number.

I would suspect the gear preload is TOO high - if all other inspections do not reveal a worn part or loose fastener. When you lower the gear, does it get stiff just before it goes into the socket and lock, or does it swing down and engage the locking socket easily? It should not have to be forced the last degree of swing into the socket. Put the AC up on jacks and check the preload.

So how do you guys fly moderate chop? I've been scolded for not riding the controls, especially the rudder, and let the airplane simply ride thru the minor oscillations of pitch, roll & yaw. To me there is more induced drag and air frame stress to attempt to counter the aircraft's every minor attitude change. Or maybe I just like the "..rocky wavey motions of the sea.." I spent lots of my youth off shore in the gulf. Actually, veeerrryy smooooth aaiir is what can freak me out!?

Years back .. for a BFR I took a "larger than FAA stnd" CFI for a flight. This guy is about 6' - 4 and pushing 250 lbs. Like sitting next to a giant when I'm use to flying 99.9% solo. First thing - I retract the gear and yank his headset clean off his head - one motion! Man was he surprised!? (me too)

S=bce? Say what? Theory is one thing, but performance doesn't prove out. And ramp appeal - that is not what I call performance!

I believe he means "parasitic drag". More blades do increase the wetted surface. Just like the long body vs. the short body Mooney vs the Questair. The old control line speed guys from the '60's used counter weighted, single blade props - for a reason.

As a contribution to the "effort" - attached is a dimensioned drawing for carpet replacement for my A model. I would bet it fits all of the short body M20's. At any rate, it would be a good starting point for a pattern. When measuring up the floor space, it's amazing how small it is and how precisely it is figured out. Even the slight adjustments to give the pilot a fraction of an inch more space. Anyway, hope this is a help to anyone who wants to upgrade to a custom fit floor covering.M20 carpet pattern.pdf

I appreciate the thorough reply. What about the backing material that the fabric is attached to? My original AIRTEX interior had a corrugated white plastic that I would have guessed flammable. What is the accepted replacement for this material? My original interior had some plywood in it. There are photos of Bill Wheat sitting in an A model with plywood door panel. I need to read through 43.13 chapter 9 sec. 4. Again, thanks. There have been lots of commentary out there on AC interiors, good to read some definitive info. Just as a note, my A model seats had cotton padding and that multi colored foam sheeting. Again, I wonder just how much was available in '59.

You can also go the route where "if smoking is not permitted, materials only have to be flash resistant" buy yourself some "no smoking" placards (who in the hell smokes any more, anyway - especially in a small GA aircraft!) and just use what you want as long as the materials are "flash resistant". Flash resistant materials - the only thing that begins to come to mind is nitrate doped cotton fabric. Now, I don't want to be in a Stearman when some guys drops his cigar down into the "bowels" of the fuselage, ignites some 50 year old cotton and nitrates dope! CAR-3 aircraft that are used for Part 91 operations, with interiors where smoking is not permitted, the interior materials shall be flash-resistant (Ref: CAR-3, Section 3.388). In CAR 3 aircraft interiors where smoking is permitted, the wall and ceiling linings, the covering of all upholstering, floors, and furnishings shall be flame-resistant (Ref: CAR-3, Section 3.388).

A composite repair is probably the best solution. Drill the rivets out, remove the bottom and it can be easily worked on - repaired - better than new. Epoxy resin and S glass, then rivet back together and paint.

We've discussed this lots of times on the list. Some of us (count me in) actually believe the X-wind take offs more of a challenge. Mooney's are not the most stable AC on take off, you have to hold some back pressure to minimize nose wheel over steering. Then factor in some aileron to a predetermined amount. The 180 hp with the constant speed prop is no Cessna 140! Into a stiff left hand xwind - you are out of right rudder from p factor, and the xwind will usually make the take off a crab the moment you get airborne - rudder to the stops, and hunting for aileron. It can be a bit of a juggernaut. The xwind landings - if I can hold centerline of runway coming down final (even with controls to the stops) then I'm good for the landing. If I cannot hold the centerline coming down final - I find another AP.

If you have a good set of logs - well organized and documented on the AD's and service bulletins. Show the documentation in an orderly fashion and that you know what's the tach time and what's "due" - that's the first thing to talk about when you go see an IA. Then they usually will respect your efforts at an "owner assisted" annual. Fastest I've done one is about 4 days when I work with my usual IA. He may not spend more than 30 min. looking at the AC & 30 min. looking over the paper work. If they have to go online and start researching AD's and checking serial numbers on old yellow tagged parts... etc. The time can get out of hand.

As a fellow Texas Mooney pilot, the best solution to chop is altitude. Where the Cessna might eventually get you to smooth air .. the Mooney effortlessly climbs above it. I regularly hear Cessna pilots complaining about rough air, asking ifit's any better at 5K plus. The Mooney is faster, so flying thru the chop is no better - perhaps even bumpier. Also, I find east texas air is usually smoother that west of the colorado river.

Considering the sporadic availability of some of these parts .. I have saved mine.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/felt.php?clickkey=3912 Wool Felt sold by AC Spruce, pop rivets, sht. mtl. screws. I need a better photo of the work around the alternator, maybe I can find one. My CHT's always below 390. The area around the prop gov. oil line & alt. bracket the most difficult to seal.

Dog house areas to check: 1. Does your engine have a lightweight starter? The baffle only fits the original boat anchor starter. Look to see if this area has been reworked to close excessive original opening when installing a lightweight starter. 2. Does your engine have a replacement alternator? The baffle only fits the original generator. Look to see if this area has been reworked to close excessive opening. Note: you have to drop the lower cowling to do this with any success. A can of instant magic spray baffle will not work, but AC Spruce sells wool, .o32 2024T3 and pop rivets. 3. Examine the area around the alternator/generator bracket and the prop oil line. Put your newly acquired skills utilizing sheet alumn. wool and cuss words to close off the gaps/hole inherent to this area. 4. Check - and more than likely - get ready to replace the silicone baffle material that seals the plenum to the front cowling. This has to be sealed continuously and carefully checked each time the cowling is removed to be sure the flexible baffle is in the formed U channel retainer - TOP & BOTTOM, SIDES of front cowling. I lube mine with silicone grease to keep it free moving with engine vibration. 5. Check the obvious areas around the dog house perimeter and for worn out sht mtl screw tinnermans.