mike20papa

If you have noticed that new amount of slop in the rudder pedals after the extensive disassembly of the nose gear required to install new shock disks, I would get your mechanic to put the airplane up on jacks and you require him to find out what happened during the gear over haul The "8 second ride" is in reference to a SB mooney put out requiring a shim be inserted in the nose wheel shock tower assembly. Read the service bulletin as it pertains to only a select number of aircraft and gives a method for measuring the system. Also, there is a linkage in the nose wheel that wears. LASAR sells this link (it is painted white). All of this nose wheel assembly linkage needs to be free of any slop. (Don't know what German is for "slop" but I'm sure you have a term that is "a little kaput". When you get the AC up on jacks and chase down the slop, you'll have a clue, otherwise your just chasing your tail.

The bearings in the rudder pedals can wear. If you take hold of the top of the pedal and can rotate it a slight amount with out the control rod moving - the bearings are worn. Mine were worn on the pilot side. I think it was a matter of replacing the inner bearing races.

I appreciate your frustration with the stock airbox. They are not easily welded as the old aluminum is typically loaded with intergranular corrosion. It will challenge even the best TIG welder. Even when repaired, the linkage for the carb heat is lacking. I cut out the entire upper half of mine and welded in new materials. This also allows for a recess in the upper portion of the airbox to receive the shutter door and get it clear of the carb airflow under typical op.s. Not sure what the additional MP is, but at least I know it's optimal. I have some "left overs" from my rebuild, If you need some help. First, get rid of those old "intake ingestible" (junk) needle bearings on the carb heat shaft. Go MacFarlane elastomeric.

Flying in Texas my cabin air flow was near "intolerable". When I looked up under the panel and discovered the condition of the scat tubing - it was apparent why. When replaced it dramatically improved. Did the same for the overhead. If radios need cooling, most mfg.s now require constant forced air via a fan.

Kerry, where are the aileron servos located?

An A model with an E model aluminum wing!? My wood wing A model is hounding me to say we fly time to 9K! Then level same heading for 5 min. and record ground speed and IAS. What is the empty weight of your airplane? I will post mine tomorrow. Joe N8335E KCFD (TX)

rebuilt mine out of .040 2024T3. Improved.

If you are looking to replace the cabin roof mounted speaker .. beware. If I remember correctly (?!) it has mounting holes in the magnet. If you have an early model, look for the 2-AN3/10-32 screws in the cabin roof that hold the speaker in place. Wish I had better info, but I don't think a simple speaker swap will work.

I pray there are NO insurance underwriters reading this thread. If so .. God help us all.

"M20A. Ever since I got my plan if I turn the nosewheel too far it seemed like the brakes would lock up some and get hard to push." Sounds like the rudder pedal and brake linkages are binding up and not returning to a neutral position. Definitely drop the left exhaust well and check, lubricate all of the associated linkages, bearings and Heim joints. There are a lot of interconnecting pieces.

I used a 337 to install all MacFarlane replacement cables in my A Model. I'm looking for the .pdf in my files, but cannot locate it .. right now. Technical writing, as well as turning wrenches, can be a real asset in the aviation world. I do remember citing MacFarlane producing similar cables for other certificated AC under PMA. I think here you reference the FAA standard regarding owner produced parts. I think I even included a letter from MacFarlane saying that all of their cables are manufactured under identical technical standards. Their is also a FAA technical bulletin titled something like "engine controls for reciprocating engines" I referenced that and the golden rule for any 337 is to finish it with "instructions for continued airworthiness" (even if you say there are none required) but I quoted some lines out of this tech bulletin. I also attached the drawings for the replacement cables on MacFarlane's standard form. Hope this helps. My AI at the time required this and a 337 on file is always a plus for any "even minor" work. Joe

I've been meaniMooney performance table.pdfng to post this for awhile..

I went thru this process when I swapped out metal tails on my A model. Years back .. (?) .. I think I made an incident board and remember this SB. I just went to the Mooney site and I think this SB, while not the particular one that shows the wood tail being replaced with the metal kit, it is similar and has the rigging instructions. https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/M20-Replacement-Metal-Tail.pdf Check it out and best of luck, you can always try contacting Mooney directly regarding this particular SB. Joe N8335E

I've owned an A model for over ten years and (call me different) purposefully looked for one to purchase! 1. This was the last aircraft Al Mooney designed - the last AC with his name on the type certificate. Al was at his zenith when the A model rolled out of the Kerrville factory. Al never designed an AC without a wood wing. The A model wing is lighter. MY airplane sits on it's gear lighter than any other mooney Ive ever seen. The Lord disks barely compressed. 2. Subsequent models suffered loss of performance and suffer from "wet wing" issues, corrosion and .. well, aluminum is just second rate aircraft structural material compared to a composite. With lots of wood AC construction experience, I had no psychological aversion to wood. Actually my aversion (due to experience/observation) is to aluminum. The fuel tanks are all removeable/repairable on the A model. 3. Yes, the aircraft needs to be hangared and why would you own ANY AC and not put it in a hangar unless you accepted the fact it was to be "short lived". I've seen plenty a Cessna with corrosion interior to the wing that looks more like aluminum oxide sand paper than airplane, and any AI with a flashlight usually won't sign one off. There is some sealing tape required under the wing root farings - lots of A models are without and so even washing the AC puts water interior to the aft spar area. Something to check.

N number?

Yes. And you do have to remove the motor to replace!

The mounts in the photo are COMPLETELY worthless. No amount of washers, wishing or hoping will bring them back to life. The log books should show when last replaced. ( I bet over 500 hrs. and/or 10 yr.s) Order either Lords or Barry both are made to the same specification. When you swap them out (and I'm talking on the 180hp motor) take the battery box out and get ready for some work. The bolts angle in and nothing wants to line up until the motor is up against the mount and the motor is not up against the mount until the bolts are in ... ?! Best wishes. But, at least you don't have to remove the motor! Joe. Oh, I like the Barrys. And the mounts you have in the photo with that extra ridge look like 200hp io-360 mounts. Hats off to the guy who knows what motor mount is also shown.

You would need to remove the wing from the fuselage to really get an exact assessment of the damage. Looks like with this kind of water intrusion that corrosion to the steel fuselage components in this area is very likely. My condolences. Any thing is repairable, but recouping the expense vs. replacing with serviceable components will be the difficult call. And yes, there is a plywood cover to the spar in this area, but the damage looks to go deeper than this area. Remember, the outer parts of the spar (furthest from the neutral axis_) carry the greatest stress. Any repairs would require scarf joining and re-accomplishing the spar webbing. Not a task for the uninitiated! Also .. not that it isn't too late .. but there is suppose to be a continuous piece of tape that laps on the wing and up on the fuselage side (concealed by the alumn. wing fillet) that seals water out of the fuselage. There are a lot of high performance sealing tapes out there now, compared to back in the day.

I'd call Zeftronic. Sometimes the old guys will say ".. that's what you get for having all that fancy instrumentation .."

Just as a note .. when changing out the donuts on my (low time) A model - the most worn parts in the gear where the two pivot bolts that attach the nose wheel trunnion to the airframe. They were deformed and allowing play into the retract mechanism. Would suggest inspecting these at nose gear OH. Joe

AN9 -24A is what is called out in my A model book for the bolt at bottom of shock tower. Double check the grip length, but I bet these are the same thru the J.

There are several suppliers of AN bolts and hardware that the "ususal" go to's don't carry. Search AN9-(determine the length) and you maybe surprised. For example SKYGEEK carries AN9-52 .. Good Luck. If you are looking for the retaining bolt for the collar at top of shock tower - look at "clevis bolts"

I didn't notice any noise reduction, but I wasn't expecting it. I first used this black sealant https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/windowsealant.php I DO NOT recommend this material! Very difficult and awful to use - I actually installed the window with it first, such disgusting material, I removed the windshield and spent hours (plus) removing this stuff. I used a non hardening white butyl rubber (sheet metal, typically) comes in a caulk gun tube. It has performed well. I wanted a flexible sealant to possibly help prevent thermal (and it's considerable) movement cracks. I also dimpled the roof screws, counter sunk the plastic and used countersunk screws - worth the effort. The UV guard really helps with solar heat gain. Joe

In my A model I upgraded to the one piece .25" LP Aero UV guard shield. It is not an easy job, but I think worth the up-grade. Sealant choice is critical. You have to shape the edges along the bottom to fit in the original channel designed for a thinner piece of plastic. I used a pneumatic rotary file fitted with a sanding drum.