Tommy

Are you upgrading as stated in your title or are you just replacing the defective unit with another identical unit? If you are upgrading then 480 is a terrible option.

People who argues about the usefulness of BRS is missing the point. Ultimately, it's the PERCEIVED usefulness that matters. To some pilots including myself, it's useful if used right. To many non-pilots, it's useful. Period.

Wonder if she will let you keep the plane if the parachute can be retro-fitted?

Massive TFR with no prior warning just for some guy to play some golf with your money. 6 months ago when our PM decided to visit where I work, there was one Tecnam doing the circuit and the "Air Force One" jet had to extend the downwind for separation. Non-towered too. If he'd asked the Tecnam to swing around so it could land early, there would be devastating consequence to his approval rating. Democracy comes in many different shapes and forms...

Following this thread. Yes there are two power supplies each is approx. 30 to 40cm to the win tip inside one of the inspection panel. You can go full LED.

Empty cockpit, no wheel chocks, and assume the parking brake is off, from where he stood, he had no chance... Fundamental question is: is there any difference between propping with the intent to start the engine vs propping with the intent to "lube" the engine? I was taught, to give due respect to the prop, there are no differences between these two...

The risk to benefit ratio of this "checklist" item seems high. I hope you always do a mag cut off check before shut down. I had flown quite a few different planes now and AFAIK no manufacturers call for a "prop turning" check during the pre-flight. Sometimes, though rarely, adding personal checklist items can be as dangerous as omitting the official ones...

I know this is definitely a hindsight and everyone's circumstance is different but this is why I always insist on owner-assisted maintenance. I also particularly like to participate in the gear retraction test because it's the only time I get to see what my plane looks like in the air!! And I always insist on doing the hand pumping just to refresh my memory of the procedure. And if I can have the plane on the jack for the shortest possible time the better so I ask the shop to do the gear test early on. However, I am very surprised that they do the gear retraction with only one mechanic? The fact that it comes all the way up and all the way down doesn't mean there are no issues in between! Surely someone else will be standing outside the plane to watch the entire process. I know it's very easy to blame on the individuals such as pilots and mechanics but it does sound like this shop is over-working its staff...

Plane&Pilot's raving review and endorsement of Ovation Ultra reminds me of movie reviews of films like Shawshank Redemption. 100% positive review but flopped big time at the box office. Cirrus delivered 350+ when Mooney delivered 7 in 2017. Sadly, a shiny Plane of the Year trophy means very little to the investors and creditors of a company. I do feel very proud though... I just wish they can sell more.

Just did a oil filter change today and decided to put together all the knowledge gained from past mistakes! Happy to report that it was a clean job - just a few drops escaped. 1) Put one small rag under the filter first. 2) Get yourself a cardboard box and custom cut to make a v-shaped board that fits right under the filter and place it above the rag 3) Use the plastic bag that comes with the new filter and cover the old filter. 4) Quickly remove the filter, swing it up and close the bag 5) Definitely helps if there's another person to make sure that the cardboard is catching and directing all the oil to the bucket. Good luck ps. It is definitely MUCH easier to remove the filter when it's cold.

Do you have any photos showing how they did the front jack?

Can be done but probably not a good idea until you are truly comfortable with your plane. Then do it when the wind is calm with light load. Basically, ease into it and do performance calculations every time you take off / land at your strip.

I always wonder why USA doesn't have high speed rail...

I would say don't approach him directly and definitely don't touch the plane, you my be held liable for any future mishaps / pre-existing corrosions etc. Like you said, he is not your friend so I wouldn't assume anything. Just sent them an anonymous letter with words of condolence and advice on how to best safe-guard the value of a sitting plane. If they acted upon your words, it means they are serious or care about the plane. If they don't, then talking to them directly will serve no purpose any way.

Sounds like a lot of hard work indeed. Do i need to remove the avionics rack to facilitate the process? And i assum that I need to repaint the metal strip that covers the windshield? Also I wonder if anyone has a photo of what GLA grey or solar grey looks like?

I think mine is still original! Looking for a detailed instruction of removing and replacing them. I did a quick search but turns up nothing. Can anyone point to me the posts or web links please? Thanks

The crazing is getting worse in my '81J and I think I am ready to get all the windows replaced. Going to do it under I&A's supervision. Just a few questions for those who have done the replacement before 1) Any real world difference between GLA's Grey and Solar-grey? 2) Does anyone have a link to detailed instruction of how to remove and replace the front windshield and side windows? 3) What sealant would you recommend? Thanks everyone!

Just finished a 2 week long air race and my plane is half covered - particularly the undercarriage - in dust. What's the best way of removing the dust on the plane? Will washing with low-pressure hose remove any grease / lubricant? Thanks guys

Can it be the $witches?? Or most likely the wires? I am leaning towards the wires because the switches had never given me any problem. I guess we just have to trace it from the switches all the way to the solenoids? Where is this disconnect relay normally located? Thanks @N201MKTurbo

81J with KFC200. Gone into annual working fine but now manual electric trim isn't working. The avionics guy actually said it was working ok when he first started working on the biannual instrument check. There is a distinctive humming in the tail when manual electric trim is engaged (both red and black switches) both up and down but the trim wheel isn't turning at all. Autopilot electric trim is working and runs through the entire trim range. The red half of the switch will disengage the A/P but I can still hand turn the wheel with it pressed. Had the feeling that there is a drop in the voltage somewhere along the line between the yoke trim switch and solenoid that engages (pulls down) a gear reduction assembly from the trim motor to the trim tube. Am I on the right track? If so, is someone able to point to me where to find places like amp connector locations that connect the wire from switch to the solenoid to put a voltage meter on? Thanks! ps. The avionics guy isn't going to fix this for free and said might take a day or two to find where the fault is and I am flying next 48 hours so hoping to see if it's just a frayed wire or loose connector somewhere

What is the absolute minimum flying to prevent corrosion - if it's corrosion to start with?

+1

It depends on where you put the gasket probe. If you put it on the top spark, it reads lower, if you put it at the bottom it reads higher.

Of course, just like every other occupation. I have no gripes with them because almost all of them - those who are able to get in and pass the course but chose not to - don't speak ill of the uni course they forego but rather speak well of the career they chose.

Be honest with what? Your own sense of self-importance and arrogance? Do you have any evidence to back up this "honest opinion?" I take it that you meant "good" not "food..."