Gary0747

My original fuel tank gauges read fairly accurate when not in motion but bounce around quite a bit while flying. Is there a way to dampen the gauge needle movement? Do the EI or JPI electronic displays do any dampening? I hate to have to purchase 4 new float senders.

Has anybody with a vintage Mooney installed a JPI EDM 900 in the position where the cluster gauge pack is? It appears to be a fit but may be close. Also does it make sense to keep the multi pin cannon plug on the back of the cluster gauge and have a harness made using a male cannon plug connector for the JPI. It might allow a simple replacement back to original if the JPI needs long term repair?

Carusoam. No body attacked anybody! Only comparing actual features between units before I make a decision which unit I prefer. Entirely fact based questions. I never said one was better than the other. And what is wrong with that? I would not want to purchase a unit and find out later the installation manual was correct. He seemed appreciative that I pointed out the discrepancy and said he would work on getting the manual changed. A real plus from a sales person as far as I am concerned.

The info I quoted above came from Page 6 of your installation manual link on the Spruce Web Site. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/mvp50pinstall.pdf

Thank you for that clarification. It seems more reasonable and more in line with JPI. Does your install manual need an update to be in line with your statement?

This is from the MVP installation manual. Some I agree with. Others seem too restrictive for an owner who may use various mechanics and shops to work on my airplane. But If I decided to make my airplane experimental then it would be ok to have the password. Level #1 Password (Maintenance): The Level #1 password is for the installer or maintenance personnel. This password allows the installer to perform the following: A. Delete Log Files. B. Set up the Gear Warning. C. Adjust the Recovery Factor. D. Calibrate the Fuel Level for all Fuel Tanks. E. Adjust the Aircraft’s Weight and Balance data. F. Set the Fuel Weight, Tach Time and Engine Hours. G. Set up the Serial Ports. H. Disable the Bar Graph. I. Calibrate Pressure Altitude. J. Calibrate Flap and Trim indications. For a non-certified MVP, the password is “00100.” For a certified MVP the password must be obtained from Electronics International Inc. To qualify for the maintenance password you must be a certified mechanic or a FAA approved shop.

I am just starting to study all this JPI and EI certified units. What is the deal with the way these units are programmed. Doesn’t JPI allow the pilot to program things like fuel tank calibration etc while EI will only allow your mechanic to have access to a password to do such things?

All metals if subject to vibration have a fatigue life. These parts are seldom examined or replaced and there are instances of improper installation and inadequate support. I think some of our airplanes originally had Dukes boost pumps that have now been replaced by Weldon. Does anybody know if these are identical pumps with no changes in tubing or support needed?

With all the high time building on our airplanes has anybody been doing maintence or replacement of the metal fuel line tubing? I was just reading about some failures on the Bonanza list due to fatigue or corrosion. I do not recall any incidents on Mooneys. I do have some concerns with the tubing around the fuel pump under the pilots feet partly because it has likely been fiddled with several time over the years. I would like to see a drawing or photo on the proper installation and support for the pump and tubing but have never found one.

Where do you get your oil analysis? Do they send results and history in that spread sheet?

Put a sheet of saran wrap on one side of the RTV and this will allow removal and reuse of the seal.

I have seen it several times when wind gusts in a storm front and one time from prop blast from another aircraft that cause elevator and aileron movement enough to hit the stops. Not good

I searched the MS previous posts on control locks and found little more than bunge cords and straps between yokes. I was wondering if anyone has found or built anything better?

Just to illustrate my point and explain my personal paranoia about water. Here is an accident report involving a 67 F. My younger brother was partners in this airplane for 8 years located in Boulder, Co before he got out and into a B36. This Mooney was always tied down outside at Boulder Airport. It was professionally well maintained. Note the finding of water from several possible sources and that the engine was probably only making low power But NTSB was not able to make conclusions. https://www.ntsb.gov/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/brief.aspx?ev_id=20141027X30645&key=1

The weak link in the Lycoming design is the cam. Many premature engine failures are due to cam wear. Given the superior lubrication of the synthetic oils I have always thought it would protect better from premature cam wear. I use Aeroshell 15-50. But I have never had problems getting near the cylinder high temp limits with the third cowl flap mod on my 67F. So year round seems fine.

How many days do those parts often set in the hot sun before the NTSB inspector even shows up let alone begins to disassemble the engine? Also there is often a fire in take off accidents. Not sure what signs of water look like in these cases?

How many hours on the old generator? Not much to wear out other than brushes which can be replaced. I would suspect a voltage regulator problem might have been an issue

Such Bravado is scary. How many loss of power on take off accidents have there been where no apparent cause can be identified? Do you think water would ever be found days later after fuel and engine hoses have been scattered?

I have never seen any colored pvc tubing on mine. It has always been the black surgical latex tubing as shown in the original photo here. Latex rubber works well but has poor oxidation resistance thus causing the surface cracking in the photo. Britain recommended changing to the windshield washer tubing which I think is EDPM to reduce the oxidation problem with the latex.

Does the button make or break vacuum to the switch box on the leveler?

Might also check the orings in the wing leveler button on the yoke while you are at it. That could cause the leveler to not engage. I think that button just pulls out. I never bothered since my leveler has always worked fine.

How much do the Spatial interiors cost? I do not see it on their website.

Posted 10 hours ago “I think it has more to do more with internal cylinder pressure than RPM. A bit of anecdotal evidence for you.” If this is the case would LOP cause higher oil consumption?

What kind of camera and how did you mount it?

Has anybody ever noticed or measured this?