Ragsf15e

If it’s obtainable, any idea how much the Mooney kit costs?

Define “lingering”…. I don’t plan to cruise in it. Look for clear air or -20c or colder air so that you’ll be out of icing conditions in cruise. However, there’s times during descent and vectors to approach where you’ll have to “linger”. The TKS should already be on, you should have pireps and forecasts, and you should have an out option planned - up, down, turn around? You’ll need to assess type and rate of accumulation and decide if you can continue with the approach sequence or tell the controller what you need to do different. Just because you’re picking up light rime during radar vectors to final (say on downwind) doesn’t mean you need an emergency climb out of it and divert. The tks keeps the flying surfaces pretty clear when used properly, working correctly, and not moderate+.

Do you have a core? Aeromoters can overhaul yours quickly.

Interesting. No, I haven’t seen that airplane around Felts in Spokane, but there is at least 1 or 2 similar long bodies hangared at Spokane International. I haven’t met the owners. On another (happier) note, I’ve been to KCLM several times and it’s a great place to use as access to the west side of Olympic National Park and the beautiful beaches out there. If you need cool in the heat of summer, it’s awesome!

Sometimes it’s easier to just pull it to idle and become your best glider pilot without mixing in partial power. Leave it running in case you mess up and might get a little burst of power but generally don’t count on it. Stay tight and be faster than Vg until you’re sure.

How do you mean? I’m picturing slowing way down, picking up a healthy descent, but not having enough energy (or power) to stop the descent and flare? I have used the slow way down trick to descend rapidly before but always had to lower the nose further or add power to have enough speed to cut the decent at the end.

I’d take that rather than be short! TBH, unless you practice a lot and know exactly what the winds are, it’s difficult to fully comprehend what they are going to do to you. If you practice with strong winds, you’ll get a good idea what it might look like. I guarantee your second attempt will be better than the first though. Unfortunately, you only get one shot in the real thing. Unless I’m really sure of the winds and my landing is assured, I’ll try to have extra energy (turn base/final slightly early and be ~Vg+10ish. On base and final I set my aim point (impact point) just prior to my intended touchdown point. It shouldn’t move in the canopy. If speed is increasing, I’ve got it made and I can deploy drag. If it’s holding steady, standby, if it’s decreasing, don’t go below Vg, get pointed at the runway asap (turn directly to the runway). Doing it this way is a slight mind shift from holding Vg and seeing where your aim point shifts, but it seems easier for me and it’s how I was trained. With practice you can already see and aim at your aim point as soon as you start turning from downwind and you can assess your speed change during the turn. Doing power off 180s is one of the best parts of the commercial check.

Definitely. Even in the USAF, T6 training let us use the first 1/3 of the runway for sfo training. Normal patterns were a much tighter restriction. The drawback is landing on a shorter runway you might end up with excessive energy at the end, but I think I’d rather resolve that on final with drag than be short.

I’m sure you already understand this, but I’m quoting you for others because you brought up the engine out pattern… What were the winds for this guy? Winds play a big part in the size/shape of a power off pattern and especially on the pilot’s perception vs reality of where they are on glideslope before turning into the wind. Like on DW you can have a strong tailwind and be screaming (groundspeed). Your base turn will be wider ground track. If no correction on base, you’ll be pushed farther from the runway. On final, you’ll quickly realize that the glideslope looks ok but your aim point or airspeed are short/slowing. Common reaction (which doesn’t work) is to keep pulling the nose up and slowing below Vg. A better response is to recognize winds early, stay higher on base final, and use gear, flaps, slips, s turns as required to reduce energy on final. If on final and you recognize you’re low, keep Vg. If you’re over flat terrain but short of the runway, diving slightly to get down and into ground effect and then holding it off will slightly increase your overall distance. BL, I don’t deploy gear, flaps or speed brakes until I’m damn sure I’ve got it made. Of course, you don’t want to be so high that nothing works to slow you down on final and you shoot off the end. Practice. And don’t forget to get the gear down! This is a really fun exercise to practice with an instructor who’s familiar or with glider pilots! I like to start with exact the power off 180s in the commercial pilot acs. Then move to different parts in the pattern or cruise flight.

Anyone tried the new aero cosmetics ceramic spray wax? I like their other products for sure. Blue spray (wash/wax) and scrubber pad are a good combo for bugs.

One thing you can do without a mechanic is a lean mag check (saavy.com) has instructions. If you have a bad/fouled plug, you’ll isolate it and be able to tell your mechanic exactly where it is. Cruise flight is a good place to check although you might be able to find it on a standard mag check.

Awesome that the pilot is ok! Sounds like he flew it “as far into the crash as possible!”

Usually a C model doesn’t have hot start. Issues because it’s not injected. It could get flooded though… does he have a good idea how to see if it is and how to start it?

Only on MS can we have a 4 page thread on using/reusing tubes… this thread is a monument to the CB nature of Mooney owners!

Yeah having the primary engine data on good displays and exportable to a computer is awesome. Historical data really helps identify new issues and isolate problems.

One other thing, I have a very similar panel to you, Gns430w, sl30, dual g5s, gi106. I was told I have to keep the 106 with the sl30/g5combo which I now don’t think is correct. Anyway, I never use the 106 other that monthly vor test. I really don’t think you need it. I do have a primary engine monitor and that’s where i think you should use the 106 holes. (my gi106 is bottom left of the panel, outside the pic)

Personally I’d do most of this except ditch both 106s. You’d have to have several separate failures that also didn’t affect the sl30 / gi106 in order to actually use the remaining 106. Also there’s a simple display of vor/localizer deviation on the sl30 display. Definitely get the battery. Depending on budget, you now have the two old 106 holes… another -275 to act as traffic/weather? How about something more important (and expensive) edm900, gi-275eis, or cgr30p and a cgr 30. Engine monitor would be very good for your setup and you’ve now got room.

Can we call this a convention?!! Who else is in KCXP? There’s one more “Texas Flag” C model that I couldn’t fit in the picture too!

True, but we got in at least 1 argument and spoke with the ceo of Mooney. Ntsb gonna do better?

Probably half my screws are up to #6 and many are loose. I’m going to have to start getting creative with tinnermans or find another way. My biggest issue is actually the plastic piece that wraps around the lower console between the pilot/copilot feet. The vent louvers are cracked and the piece itself has been caught / pulled back a few times getting caught on feet worming in/out - abs repair would work on that. The problem is, that piece seems unusually difficult to remove. I tried and gave up once (not to fix it, but I dropped a screw behind it). It’s got the flap and trim indicator and it appears to have screws/bolts that go through into the nose wheel well requiring a partner to get out.

pictures would be awesome! Did you keep the annoying little screws or upgrade to the 3m super velcro solution? Even nutplates for the screws would be an upgrade! My plastic is generally ok, but my screws are all looses and random sizes.

I know/understand you don’t want to take it far, but thoughts on sending some pictures to Wilmar and seeing what they think? 15 years isn’t that long (obviously out of warranty), but they might have some ideas. Additionally, I’d consider a patch or just doing the one wing since the entire thing was done relatively recently. Just thoughts…

And it’s tiny. You will miss it if you don’t look close. The static drain looks exactly the same and is roughly below the static ports in the tail section. Push them, you’ll feel them spring back.

I just read another thread about a rough running SF and it was exactly the same reason. Short springs corroded quickly. A better quality harness fixed it.

Theory is they have additional blowby which shows up as high oil use and warmer oil. My oil temp is fine, usually 185, but I live somewhere cold and north of @M20Docapparently.