Ragsf15e

I agree that you might be able to source a case and rebuild your current engine. Good luck and nice job!

Just for fun, have you guys tried pushing in both the mixture AND the throttle at the same time to relieve the pressure? I know much less than @PT20J about the fuel servo, but I have noticed that when I prime, if my throttle is all the way back (like the 800rpm mentioned above), my pressure will build and there’s not much flow even with mixture rich. Pushing the throttle in say halfway and pressure drops, flow is good. Just be advised… if you “relieve the pressure” at a fuel stop and then try to start, there’s a good chance you’ll be flooded as the fuel is going to flow into the cylinders.

@John Coughlin, exactly what @Sue Bon and @Marauderpointed out. Things that could be the cause for delayed Gear retraction. Squat switch (left main gear - do you have an electrical switch there?), airspeed switch (if no squat switch, then you have an airspeed switch), or limit switches (in the belly). The airspeed switch allows Gear retraction above about 60kts. It’s normally located immediately behind the airspeed indicator behind the panel. It’s fairly large and brass colored. There are pictures around here. Search Mooney ASS or Airspeed Switch. On second thought, don’t search ASS. That won’t end well.

The key is in the model year. There were only a few years with squat switches, something like 1975-1983 (that’s just ballpark, and it might be a big ballpark). If it doesn’t have a squat switch, squished donuts are not the cause.

As @Marauder mentioned, model is important here. I’ve had this happen on my F that doesn’t have an override or squat switches. Seemed to only happen when really cold. I sprayed lps1 liberally in the limit switches in the belly and actuated them with my thumb to get them nice and lubed. Hasn’t happened since. Doesn’t mean that was the problem though…

It’s dual IN, but only 1090 out. Imo, the dual in is important, but I was also wondering why you would need dual OUT?

I fully agree with skip. However, imo, the Mooney panel doesn’t have a lot of room. If you want to save room by “remoting” something, the transponder is a good choice. If it goes out, that sucks and you’ll have to get it fixed, but it won’t compromise your comm or navigation to get down if you’re IFR. Might just make atc less happy.

Nope, I meant it just as I typed it. I was responding to the part of your post where you seem to say that it’s a negative to only transmit out on one frequency. The gtx345 is dual in, so it will receive traffic from both frequencies. I don’t think there’s benefit in transmitting out on both. I was wondering what you think the benefit is of transmitting out on both? Possibly there are some systems that only have 978 in, but they are rare. Were you concerned with people possibly not seeing you on their adsb if you only transmit out one freq? Typically the cheaper solutions (stratus) are dual in or out only (like wingtip), so dual out doesn’t really help these see you?

Why are you concerned with having both 1090 and 978 out? As long as you have 1090, you can use it anywhere. It’s dual receive, so you get everything. Are you concerned with the few people that only have 978 in?

The ahrs in the gtx isn’t great. I wouldn’t do it for that. Cleanup is nice though. Remote too! It’s only money…

I have the same battery. Im in Spokane. Haven’t been above 35 since early November. Highs in the 20s recently. Battery is on a battery minder and it’s doing fine. Preheating the engine and possibly gyro avionics is probably worth it though. I use a gsm switch, small space heater and a dryer vent into the cowling. The entire engine is typically 50+ before starting. I have a hanger though. Can you preheat on a ramp?

You could fly circles with F-16s now, maybe even more fun!

Especially when the hearing is about “bailing out your company?”

Also, “we” (as in GA) are mostly the only ones using tis b. It’s not something the airlines use. It’s for us, and it’s pretty useful in some out of the way places where more planes aren’t equipped with adsb out. Believe it or not, they’re out there!

When you have the ram open and lean past peak, do you ever smell fuel? I have gami injectors and one or two dribble a little fuel in flight when leaning with the ram open. There’s a lot of internet lore on this too (and someone mounted a gopro inside the engine cowl!), but gami blames it on the increased pressure in the intake above that of the open air top of the engine due to ram air. They even suggested I try a turbo’s injector (which I did not). The injectors are properly installed and rotated to the correct position/flat. It seems to just happen briefly right as i go through peak egt and then stop which is super weird.

Did you have a 3 blade before and move to a 2 blade now?

On my F it’s closer to 1”mp and worth ~4 knots at 8000’ ish. Obviously WOT up there. I have had maintenance on it before when the control cable came disconnected, so it’s not free.

I think it’s really important for those of us that fly other (more capable) airplanes for work to keep in mind the limitations of an older GA aircraft. Additionally, our personal limits should be different between work/GA. Even if I’m comfortable flying to mins in both, I won’t fly my Mooney at night over the mountains for example. Or over a large, low weather system. Or maybe night, ifr in complex airspace. We may be current and proficient, but still need to be cognizant of the limitations on ourselves and our aircraft as well as the differences between work/leisure.

I’m still at $6.69 at my airport. Crazy. (KSFF).

It is weird. Are we sure it’s just not a real old picture? Is there some way to tell? I flew right over the other day and was amazed by how many planes were there!

Well the 25-30 big brand new 787, 777, 737s aren’t lined up all over the place like they were last week?

A few people have complained that the 355 and gtn series don’t work well together. Have you noticed this? Has it been an issue? Seems like an awesome setup.

Just realize that the cost of buying isn’t the actual price. Yearly costs on everything else quickly catch up. Those are the ones that sneak up on you. Get a good read on those vs your budget. The initial price is easier to comprehend.

Borrowing to fix up the asset itself (and potentially increase its value/liquidity) is different than using a $100k (or more) against your primary home to buy a toy. At least for some folks. Doesn’t mean it’s wrong. Depends on the situation.

That being said, it’s probably the lowest interest rate loan you’ll find as long as you have equity and aren’t afraid to borrow against it.