Ragsf15e

Cheapest turbocharger you’ll ever get!

Even if it’s a standard metal box like mine, I preheat the engine when it’s less than about 40f at night. That’s 7 months of the year for me. I still fly if it’s above zero… brrr!

If you live somewhere even a little cold, it’s nice to have some type of cell or wifi inside the hangar (with door closed) so you can control an engine heater remotely. Sucks to drive to the airport just to turn that on.

Yeah, mine is updated sw as well. Weird how it’s “not solvable” by sw. I’d think it would be pretty straightforward.

You would think, but the first thing JPI recommended to me was a snubber. I think it’s an Omega 8g but you better check sizing. Mine fixed my 930. Easy to install too.

Excellent! Yes, LOP is the way to go in many cases. Your CHT temps will be cooler (in general) too, so good for the long term engine health. Just be careful leaning as you climb. It’s fine (and I do it as well) but you need to keep an eye on your chts. If the OAT is very high or you are a little slow or maybe lean a little too much, it’s possible to get your chts hot real fast. Just don’t overdo a good thing…

Look at your 3rd adi?! in my airplane, if both G5s go TU, I gotta make sure my autopilot is engaged or engage it. That’s the nice thing about an STEC rate based.

Well the USAF calls the “new” turbine version the T-6 Texan II. You’d think it would be very draggy if needed, but the prop is full feathering and so it actually glides really well. Luckily full flaps is very effective and so is a slip.

As a reference, the Air Force made us put down emergency landing patterns between 500 feet to 1000 feet. You had to land within that range from the threshold to pass that maneuver in the T-6. as @PT20J said, I would try to make myself slightly high energy on final, then use full flaps or slip to nail it exactly where I wanted. Wind analysis is very important.

I do practice landing within the white bars because it’s a nice reference. In my mind I pretend the beginning of it is the threshold. However, you’re definitely right, if I’m in a real situation and glide down to a 5,000’+ runway, I’m not aiming for “brick one”. 1000’ down will be a perfect outcome and 2 feet short could be a disaster (lights? Mud? Threshold?). It’s worth trying to be precise though as a 2000’ runway or field requires landing pretty close to the beginning and not short.

Just as a data point, Jimmy uses Jewell.

unfortunately I’ve got a jpi transducer and connector. I will try cleaning it, but I don’t think it’s the same or at fault for my application.

For some of the EPs, a mid 80s J model poh is a good reference, but might not be exactly what you’re looking for. You might need to use several J poh’s and make up your own C/E/F EP section. personally, if enough altitude is available, I like to circle down from a high key when I practice. Somewhere around 2000’-2500’ over the numbers, clean, best glide (or faster). Then circle down to low key (which is your abeam position) at approx 1000’, ~100mph (best glide for me). Then you’ll just do your best commercial pilot power off 180. Gear and flaps and slip and s turn and pull the prop rpm out (this is very effective extending glide) as appropriate to not be short, but not land halfway down the runway. With practice and proper wind consideration, you can nail a 500’ target or better consistantly. some will say that having 2500’ over the numbers is unlikely, but you can practice to intercept the same circling pattern from anywhere - low key (abeam), base, final, etc.

Exactly. I am sometimes overly anal (or anxious?) but I’ve been known to wash my windscreen after a trip before putting on the cover if the airplane is to be left outside. I don’t want the cover rubbing in those bugs!

One thing to watch for, keep it as tight as possible when it’s on. Tight. It looks like good quality, but my bruces has zero wrinkles when on and doesn’t move in the wind at all. You don’t want it slowly rubbing.

I might also suggest pulling the pma7000, cleaning the connections as much as possible on both the unit and rack, then re-racking it.

If you solve it, let us know. My jpi930 fp has been fluctuating for years.

I might just (vfr) pull your pfd circuit breaker and see what you really have. The gi-275 is going to fall back to track vs heading which is just as good or better. You can also turn off your gps and replicate electrical failure. If the internal gps in the -275 is on you still get track. I’m not sure how another gmu improves this?

Additionally, a G5 has an internal gps as well. It can be set up iaw the STC with a small antenna under the glareshield (it also has an internal antenna that my hangar elves found works great). If it’s connected to the panel gps, that’s primary but it can use internal gps in a failure, so it doesn’t lose gps. Does the -275 also have internal gps?

This seems to match me too. I have an inexpensive hangar, but ~20k/year all in is in the hundred hours ballpark.

What HSI are you using? If not an electronic one, then you will have to set each course. Newer digital ones come with gpss and auto slewing.

Well thought out. It’s always important to train for being on the approach with weather at mins, socked in above, and close to your alternate fuel. I try to add in a crying baby or a pax with an ear block. You will feel the pressure of the real world even if it’s just knowing it will be right around mins. It will certainly feel different from approaches where you are clear above and just go through a 1000’ layer on final. It’s easy to do the 150kts yo the faf, slam on the brakes, start down, drop the gear at 500’, half flaps, roll halfway down the runway and taxi to the cafe feeling like chuck yeager, but in the real thing, you’ll want to be consistent and deliberate with whatever your chosen technique is because it will feel different and it’s easy to get behind when you’re doing something different every time.

Yep. I don’t think configuring at the faf is a good idea. I’ve seen people do what you describe and it works fine, but I don’t like adding things at the faf that aren’t necessary. Final configuration done and checked prior, airplane all trimmed and on speed prior. That’s how i do it.

Lasar shows the real ones in stock now. Fit right out of the package. https://lasar.com/interior-hardware/seat-roller-140004-000

Isn’t there a fuse on the battery minder wiring since it’s normally low current anyway? I thought my minder connection had a pretty low amp fuse but possibly im wrong?