Ragsf15e

Never thought I’d learn so much about the handling qualities of shopping carts on MooneySpace!

Awesome looking airplane!

I guess I just think adjusting the heat/cold system so it works is pretty much as easy as leaving it broke and shoving sponges instead. I live somewhere real cold and I haven’t had an issue with too much cold or not enough heat.

I agree. I was trying to think of a nice way to say that the air/heat system is already cheap and easy to maintain. No need to go CB on it. Also, while I don’t want to lose my CB card, I don’t like the idea of shoving sponges into air intakes…

Ha! I was going to say the opposite end. Either way, having the over center work properly makes all the difference. Mine required adjustment near the actual ram door and access was difficult but possible through the pilot side cowl.

Not that many Ovations/Eagles with FIKI for sale. I wonder if there just weren’t that many built? Those can have a great UL even with tks.

I was almost thinking it should be slightly longer than needed and the ends bent over so it couldn’t pull through. I’ll be keeping a closer eye on it for now and see how much it migrates.

Rainy day, was out at the hangar cleaning the airplane and saw something that didn’t look right. I was cleaning the top near the baggage door and the hinge looked loose. Maybe the last 3 or 4 hinges weren’t exactly lined up. Went around and looked from the other side and found a good few inches of the wire pulled through. Not sure how that happens, and I’m guessing door departure wasn’t imminent, but it didn’t feel good. I got it pushed back in and will have to keep an eye on it.

DMax is great. Other good places include SWTA between Austin and San Ant and Dugosh down near Kerrville.

If you use your plane for ifr (or anything else where the battery is critical), please get a legit cap check once in a while. The “sag” test might give you a ballpark idea, but it’s not a real test. A battery that fails the capacity test can still start the engine fine but will die quickly if you lose your alternator.

This should be a standard part of your annual inspection… do you think it’s not happening? Mine is going on 5 years and passed (>80%) last month.

GI-275s would be primary attitude source for the autopilot while g3x would be pfd. G3x wouldn’t have inputs to the autopilot except maybe heading. I think it would feel kludged together. I don’t think I’d go this route. Maybe just put in a couple gi-275s instead of the g3x.

Our F poh has the same 1kt/1000’ decrease, but it starts at 110mph. I used 100mph initial climb and achieved a better climb rate than 110mph. Im thinking there’s lots of factors and they might have just made a best guess with rounding when they published the Vy.

I used American in Redding as well and the driver service was efficient all the way up in Spokane Washington!

She’s a little old spitfire aviatrix who’s been flying for 50 or 60 years and writes for Flying mag when she’s not suspended for doing crazy stuff. Hilarious lady. Try her book, i bet you’ll love it. She’s a taildragger fan. https://www.amazon.com/Unusual-Attitudes-obsessions-confessions-pilot/dp/0983072957

You were heavier than us for sure. You also had warmer temps. Finally, you went higher than us which really drops your average. Try again on one of those arctic California mornings when it’s 35 degrees. Have 35 gallons on board. Get the average up to 10k.

It can happen to anyone. Didn’t Martha Lunken hit a 182 as well?

Thank goodness the kid and the cub are OK!

And checking which cht probe is different on the 830…

Those baffling issues might help. Use that light in the oil door technique to see any others. Good luck!

Well shoot, I guess I was wrong! I flew your power setting (as you said, it was very close to 50rop) in almost exactly the same conditions and it was significantly cooler than your engine. My cowl flaps were full closed. Are you still breaking it in? Now of course, I have an F and you have a J so the cowl is different, but I wouldn’t think that yours would run that much hotter? Maybe looking closer at the baffling is a good idea. Here’s the engine monitor from the top picture… Just for grins, the second photo is Lop and you can see it’s cooler (#3 is almost the same as it is closest to peak).

Im about to go flying, so ill set mine up just like you did and show you the temps. I’m betting they’re similar although I have an F with the old intake.

Fair enough. Yeah, you can tell from the ff that it’s likely not lop. At 60% power, you can pretty much run it wherever you want and not hurt it, however, if you’re trying to make it hot, 50 rop is pretty close to where you might set the mixture. I would recommend trying it richer, like 100 rop. Id expect to see closer to ~10.3gph and noticeable cooling in the chts. There are folks on here who did break in lop, so i think it’s unlikely you’d have problems running lop as well and that would definitely be cooler. If you’re interested in just taking a look, set up similar conditions to your picture and then lean until the LAST cylinder egt peaks. Go about 10 degrees leaner (cooler). Let it settle. I bet your chts will be ~320. Ff will be ~8.8 and you will lose about 3kts.

That’s pretty common. The manual trim works pretty well for a good long time after it’s been cleaned/lubed and the trim system doesn’t really show up as an issue until it’s really hard to trim. Some places might skip the yearly maintenance that could keep it running easier.

Gothcha. Any idea where your egts peaked? Just seeing their values (which admittedly don’t mean much by themselves), it seems like you were pretty close to peak, but definitely on the rich side… any idea how rich?