Ragsf15e

Also, if you’re getting out only and your 430 isn’t waas, it’s not going to integrate with the 430 at all. You need to decide if you really need adsb in on the 430. Probably in the 5-10 AMU range installed. I have that, it’s useable, but is it really necessary with aall the same info on your iPad? Probably not. Or you can keep getting adsb in on the stratux and iPad while using a much cheaper solution for adsb out compliance. Like maybe 2 AMUs for wingtip light solution.

He doesn’t need a waas ifr gps though, just an adsb solution with waas in it - like tailbeacon or wingtip or gtx 345 with its own gps, etc...

@gsxrpilot, you hurt my feelings! The 430 display actually works pretty well for nearby traffic! Agree that wx is shit on it. yes, when you get adsb out, it triggers the towers to zap you your own adsb traffic puck. Although in socal you’re probably getting enough piggy back traffic that it might not appear much different. Ram mini ipad mount, right side. Right above usb ports in cig lighter. Yes I see I’m flying at 9,700’. No, I have no idea why. It was a long time ago. And yes, I see little mermaid is on the iPad instead of traffic on foreflight. My 3 year old is riding shotgun!

Do the Tailbeacon or wingtip Uavix solution for adsb. Super cheap, easy install, has it’s own waas. You won’t get anything on your 430, but your ipad/stratus/sentry can be panel mounted and wired into the electrical or cigarette lighter. Yeah, this won’t display on your 430, but saves you about $5-8 (waas upgrade and new xponder) AMUs which you can save up for your instrument rating. The nonwaas 430 is perfect for instruments in socal!

Electric gear looking even better now! All you Johnson bar folks always giving us a hard time!

Not only does it advance timing below ~25” MP, Surefly sets timing at TDC at start for better starts. with electroair you need their plugs/wires too. Our C-172 does start/run really nice with electroair...

I’m sure you can get a nice electroair installation, but I fly it at work In a C-172 and would not put it on my mooney. The new mag switches/key setup is obtrusive, there’s all kinds of added wiring and little boxes in front and behind firewall, and our IA who I trust very much with my own plane says it eats the spark plugs. Now, on the bright side, it starts very easy, and the mag drop is almost imperceptible. One thing that really bugs me, and it may just be the installation we have, when you turn off and take out the key, it’s very easy to leave the two mag switches on. I know you should treat every prop like a loaded gun, but I had a student move the prop over to attach tow bar right as I yelled STOP! and showed her that we both missed that checklist step... I’m gonna do Surefly. After @Marauder

Just got my airplane back from annual last month. $12,200. Second annual in 3 years over $10k (different shops) and I think my 68F is very well maintained. This year $5,500 was prop overhaul to include work on some corrosion they found inside the hub. Most of the rest of the $7k (at least over the $2k flat annual) was stuff I asked him to work- new alternator, sand and paint minor surface corrosion areas, rebuilt hydraulic parking brake, etc. when I looked at the bill, I was surprised, but when I went through it, I know they spent more time on it than they charged, and there are some cosmetic things they did without charging-cleaned/painted all the wheels, removed/new wing walk, etc. I trust them 100% mechanically and they always make me feel good even if it’s pricey. The right mechanic is like finding gold. Here’s to a flat rate annual next year!!

Interesting thought on the aft CG aerodynamics. I have always understood the benefits of an aft CG to be from reducing the amount of negative lift that the tail has to generate to hold the nose up and thus reducing drag created by the horizontal stabilizer. It’s not the weight reduction, but the reduction of induced drag created by the tail that results in slightly better airspeed. At our cruise speed, any reduction in drag will have a larger effect than increase in power (percentage drag vs percentage power). And maybe that’s what you meant too as wing loading/weight is going to directly affect lift required and therefore drag... I buy the ~3 knots between max gross and very light weight and have seen about that pretty consistently. I think I’ve got more like 2-3 knots out of an aft CG though. I will need more data to back that up.

Also note generally cooler CHT temps LOP. It wasn’t bad for ROP, but cooler is generally better for longevity. For that OAT, your temps look reasonable. Nice avionics btw!

Those numbers seem about right. Next thing would be to do same thing around 9,500’ just to get an idea how altitude will affect both. At some point less than 65% power you may want to run closer to peak egt when LOP but there’s probably gonna be debate on that. Just make sure all 4 are past peak. Higher up you’ll find even better miles/gallon, but at a slightly slower airspeed. Rop, you’re in a good place. Probably don’t wanna get any leaner there. Remember, all the settings are dependent on altitude, temp, etc. you now have an idea of ff, but best to use the lean function on the jpi to set it each time in cruise. You should figure out how to download your data and use jpi’s software to analyze the leaning. It will give your gami spread. Lop, #4 is farther lop, but that isn’t necessarily indicative of a bad gami spread. I also use the normalize mode after leaning as it will quickly show an egt walk off if you have an exhaust valve issue.

You’ll get lots of advice on LOP and ROP. Plenty of other threads to read too. However, I’d caution you on just setting a fuel flow without knowing where you are ROP, Peak or LOP. Probably should be somewhere around 90ish ROP, 20 or more LOP (depending on altitude) or Peak maybe if you’re real high. It’s pretty difficult to detonate an IO360 at 6,500’, but possible, especially lower. It’s also just a bad habit to set mixture half hazardly when you’ve apparently got egt info from all 4 cylinders. 25ROP is not a great place to operate the engine for efficiency, speed or longevity. Im definitely not trying to sound like a jerk or condescending, just trying to make us all better... and you beat me too... I did very similar speed testing last weekend in my M20F. 90 ROP, 10.2gph, 145 kts, 10300’ density alt. 136 knots at same altitude 20LOP. Js are nice!

I’m scheduled for beginning January install, I’ll ask about it. I knew of the limitation vaguely and asked when I first talked to them, but they insisted it had been resolved... Maybe they were just going to disconnect my GTX345 from the 430W as well? If that’s the “solution “, we’re gonna have problems...

Well, I guess if it’s not in the checklist, that’s why “most” Pilots don’t use them. I agree you can add it to your own if you like, but that’s your own technique. Don’t be surprised if other people use different techniques. In other parking brake designs, it might be more important to check, more useful, and harder to leave engaged. However, our parking brake is merely holding most/some/all the pressure from your toes and letting you remove your feet from the pedals. If you don’t have anywhere to go (like outside the airplane- jumping it maybe?) then there’s no big reason to use it at all. If you do want to use it, that’s fine as well. Just put a second checklist item at the end of pretakeoff... parking brake, disengage!

Generally I agree with following the checklist as written, and it does say to set PB before start, but not before runup/pre takeoff checks. In the taxi section it clearly says to disengage PB, but the pre takeoff section does not say to reengage. At least 1968 F.

Interesting, seems to be shop interpretation. I have exactly the same setup (just getting the G5s) and my shop said it is good now....

Momentary lapse like forgetting to release the parking brake for takeoff?

I’ve taxiied with my PB locked before and it definitely didn’t take full power (like jumping chocks might). Wheels turned (heavy and slow). Took a while to notice. Took longer than runup area to takeoff position. I could see you forgetting it, taking off with it engaged and locking the wheels on landing at high speed/light weight. Blow both tires real quick. Don’t know why it wouldn’t disengage after though. BTW, I stopped using mine like most of these other folks. However, as someone who’s had their 65,000# aircraft roll away after shutting down, I would use it if I was on a hill or high wind without chocks!

Yeah, but let me enjoy!

Yeah, I did 2 last year, it hurt. Crow is apparently an expensive, acquired taste.

After reading through the 1,069 threads this summer on hot starting my Io-360 and all the O-360 guys professing the superiority of starting a carb engine vs injected, I admit, I love this thread! I’m just sipping a beer, and enjoying discussions about all the techniques for starting (or burning up) an O-360, the battery, the starter, the whole airplane, etc instead of the same thing about the IO-360! I flew today in Northern Washington and it started right up!

Hot as F$$k?? Try touching the outside of the red torpedo lights above your head!! You can cook with those things! There’s a thread about making them led too but it’s not a simple swap of bulb. My soldering might be worse than the hot hot lights. So my entire panel has led ring lights and everything stays bright and cool... except the burning torpedo lights!

I guess I want mine to work just right too, but better it fails to allow retraction than always allowing it. You have the bypass so you can still get the gear up. I don’t, but my asss seems to work pretty good . I wouldn’t want to get in the habit of using the bypass every time. Whole point of asss or squat switches is to prevent gear retraction on the ground, it is weird that they kept switching back and forth between methods.

Thankfully it’s not mine. That poor airplane is a bit rough. Came in running rough too. Took some work, but finally they turned over the engine while watching the valves with a borescope. The exhaust valves barely open. Cam is worn way down. Shot. But hey, now it’s all opened up and I can get pictures of all kinds of parts. No 201 windshield, so great access to the avionics too! I’m almost jealous!

Got pictures of one in my ia shop today... this on a 76 F.