Ragsf15e

I have a similar story about replacing a bunch of stuff and then finding the problem was with an old circuit breaker. Troubleshoot first.

Is it making standard rate turns? Lots of times I find myself flying 30degree bank turns out of habit from much faster airplanes. Standard rate in our Mooney is closer to 23 degrees or so. Seems wide, but probably appropriate.

Links below. Lots of good guidance in there but none of us had headset noise. Do you have a JPI or other digital readout of bus voltage? What is it in flight? If not, you can get a cheap cigarette lighter insert with digital readout as a double check. Based on the headset noise, You may be checking out the alternator connection or diodes like Turbo said and not necessarily the low voltage issue. https://www.zeftronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Z14PS.pdf

Is the whirring noise mechanical or electrical noise coming through the audio? Ie, do you hear it without the headset on? I’m not smart enough to know how, but that probably matters.

Definitely use the diagram and troubleshoot it before shotgun replacing parts. It’s more likely a cheap circuit breaker or corroded connection than an expensive regulator or alternator. There are several threads from the last year on low voltage situations that will give you good advice. Let me know if you need help finding them. Definitely troubleshoot it first. I can’t say that enough... Theres also a troubleshooting guide on the Zeftronics website. It’s the same procedure as the one above. Works even if you don’t have a Zeftronics VR. The notes on the one above (left side) are important... no more than .5 V drop across any connection. Ie, check the battery voltage (say it’s 12.6, bus might be 12.3, input to the VR maybe 12.1). If you’re seeing bigger drops, find the point of resistance. Also check the field voltage out of the VR and then into the alternator. Again, should be minimal drop.

That color will look nice. Mine matches my seats though. The grey might work better for you?

Yep, mines a 430W too. You have to put waypoint in one of the data blocks.

I agree with GS, DTK, DIS. GS is only there because we all care about going faster, but I still have it. It’s useful for time/fuel calc too I guess. However, the top data field on mine is Waypoint. The key to the magenta line is know where that damn thing is taking me!

Oh wow, that’s interesting. Mine has enough trim to hold pretty darn close to Vne. Nose up trim gets close to maxing out on final with two adults in the front and no luggage.

Yep it’ll definitely take a trim change to change the airspeed. Almost all the “basic” airplanes I’ve flown (and most of the advanced turbines too) trim to an airspeed. That means if you’re doing 120kts in cruise (trimmed hands off) and pull power, the airplane will enter 120kts descent. Yeah, it’s not perfect, it’ll hunt/oscillate a little as it settles into the descent, but it will still be trimmed at 120 kts. If you add enough power, it will enter 120 kts climb. If you trim it down for ~185mph descent, it will take you pushing pretty hard to get past 200mph.

500fpm with cruise power set works for my F too. I do not reduce power until ready to slow down and configure. 500fpm seems to be about right to keep you in the yellow but below Vne. Enough people have said it, but there’s absolutely nothing wrong with being in the yellow, even close to Vne, as long as it’s smooth. Use one of the multiple math or technology solutions to compute your descent point. 5 x altitude to lose in 1000’s works. ie, 5,000’ to lose, start wot descent at 25 miles.

I’ve got a 3/4” hole in the top/middle of my windscreen where an OAT gauge was removed years ago. It was filled and sealed. Been through MSCs and independent IAs. Nobody said a thing about it. Even the MSC that didn’t like the generic placards on the instrument panel vs the “authorized” ones from 1968. I wouldn’t assume that the window was an airworthiness issue, and even if it was, authorizing an annual INSPECTION doesn’t authorize ANY maintenance/repair except those described in the inspection (oil change, air filter, etc).

Here’s the link to the last low voltage thread. Lots of good advice.

Here we go again... I just went through this with my 68F. Well, the low charging part. I never had any avionics drop off. Heres the deal, don’t go replacing stuff until you go through the electrical system with that voltmeter and figure out what is broken. I replaced an alternator, and voltage reg before doing my own troubleshooting and fixing it with a $20 circuit breaker that was building up resistance and lowering the voltage to the VR. Besides the CB feeding bus voltage to the VR, the field wire comes off the VR and goes back to your master switch before going to the alternator. That master switch can be a source of resistance. Never mind 50 year old wiring. Zeftronics has a nice troubleshooting guide on their website.

I have an F and twin 3 year olds. I purposely bought the smallest car seats available so we could fit them in the baggage area. It takes a little bit of Tetris to fit them through the door and on top of each other but there’s still room for some light bags. So yes, car seats suck, but you can fit 2 in the baggage area and travel with 4 people in relative comfort on trips!

I’m in line at the avionics shop for 2 G5’s. Vacuum pump coming off this annual if the avionics shop timeline works out. And yes @Marauder is right, it would be nice to have a backup alternator, but I believe you can reduce battery load enough to keep a navcom going and the G5’s (which have a 4 hour internal backup) to get you down if the alternator dies. If that goes south, handheld radio, G5’s (internal battery) and iPad (stratus be good with iPad). Even without the electrical system, we’ve got a lot of backups.

I think @gsxrpilot tried this unsuccessfully. Not sure if it was only the aoa or also attitude that didn’t work on the angle panel. He can probably chime in and tell you.

What altitude were you at? It adds up. Was it all day vmc or would it conclude at night? IMC or VMC? Autopilot or No? Those are the factors that start to make me limit my hours.

Yep, that’s definitely reasonable. My step is original and it was corroding pretty badly. I looked at replacing it last annual and decided against the $1000. Instead, my mechanic cleaned it real good and put a few coats of new paint along with reinforcing under the step. Good as new and much cheaper.

But the retractable step folks will tell you that you’ll lose 7 knots and yaw hard right with a fixed step! Surprised nobody said that yet! So lasar has fixed steps. They are about $1000 for a metal tube/step. That doesn’t include the “aerodynamic” fairing that goes around it if you’re so inclined. My F has a fixed step and I like it. They are in a tough environment and tend to rust from the inside though. If you went without, it seems a simple job to fabricate a patch over the hole.

Ok, I’m learning, keep talking... what does the com one above the copilot do? Is it powered by the avionics master? Where above the copilot? Behind instrument panel or roof? Thanks! I’ve looked at the maint manual electrical diagrams and they are pretty hard to follow because they use a lot of symbols to represent parts and I can’t find a key. Probably a standard for electrical, but I’m a little slow on EE.

Good point. If you have the master on, there will be power, but even a minimal voltage drop might be a bigger deal when you crank the starter because it will get a lot bigger with more amps. When chasing alternator issues with just the master on, Zeftronics has you look for 0.5 or greater drop from battery or bus, but with the starter, even that might be too much. Probably best to check it like N201MKTurbo said. Carefully...

Interesting... I have a solenoid in the engine compartment, low on the pilot side near the pilots feet. I assumed it’s the starter solenoid but I haven’t chased the wires. Is this the same one you reference in the pilots footwell? I wonder if different models have them different places? The other one I have is right next to the battery like you said.

This is good advice. Basically, there are lots of connections between the battery and starter (alternator too) and they’re all susceptible to some corrosion causing a bad connection. Swapping in parts is fine, but as a “slightly older owner”, I think you’ll soon find out that the 50+ year old electrical system will have lots of ways to fail and surprise you. I’d highly recommend getting out the voltmeter and testing voltage starting with the battery itself and then moving through the system. Battery should be ~12.5-13.0ish. There should be minimal drop as you move past the master solenoid (with it on obviously). Then check out the voltage at the starter solenoid in the engine compartment. Finally, have a friend help check voltage at the starter. You will find your culprit in minimal time and replace less parts.

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/f0684a_514bcd15d2bf40ca86d548170ac9cccd.pdf There are lots of turbocharged airplanes on their stc (M20U, Cessnas and Pipers) and lots of answers in their faqs. You can put the mag on, but it’s limited to fixed timing mode. However, I don’t see the Bravo or K on there. This link shows approved Surefly engines. Lots of turbos, but only fixed timing. https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/712b87_e6a0da0541ce494d835f6b8456de1ebe.pdf