Ragsf15e

Is your fuel pressure steady?

Makes sense. Good luck!

Since the gear doors don’t fully cover the wheels when the gear is up, it’s very easy for people to think the gear are partially down when looking up at a flyby. I’ve had the same ground report from the tower when my gear were up and locked.

I like the idea of it, but would prefer the ability to have a switch between a “conventional” avionics switch and an “emer” avionics switch that has your items on it. Normal ops would be conventional, all avionics off during start like Skip mentioned. In an emergency, I could have gps, radio, etc. I agree with @OR75 that a radio isn’t required, and neither is a panel gps, but IFR, a radio sure would be nice if you’ve got a long ifr divert ahead of you.

Can you BT in the audio from Foreflight? Some of that seems useful. I also like the USB charging capability (probably no interference like lighter usb chargers) and the separate BT inputs which can be separated out to passengers so the kids get their own movie audio. Finally the ability to turn off the radio to pax is nice for those that want to read or whatever, but not be “isolated”. I’ve been trying to convince myself to put in a 450B for my current GMA340 for a while. Super easy swap, but It just hurts so much to take out something that works perfectly and put in something new that costs a couple amu. If your current audio panel is struggling at all, I’d definitely pull the trigger though. How much can you get for a used gma340?

Hi Warren, if you’re autopilot is working, not coupling your new IFD to it is short sighted. You get to choose when the AP is connected, so if you don’t want it to fly an approach, that’s fine, but you really want the IFD and AP to fly enroute! My autopilot (STEC 30) steers course beautifully, but it only has altitude hold. I prefer to fly the approach, but I love the autopilot for cruise and during vectors. No reason to hand fly for a few hours in cruise. Especially if you’re flying an airway or route with multiple turns. You should use that time to keep track of changing weather, traffic, alternates, etc. I’m sure you do some of that now, but you’ll be shocked how much additional awareness you’ll have as you just monitor the autopilot while thinking ahead. Yes, you’ll still monitor the autopilot and the gps, but you’ll have much more time for bigger picture stuff which it turns out is really important. Typically, it’s not that hard to couple the AP to an IFD, but you may need a “GPSS” source. Your avionics shop can explain this, but it basically takes digital GPS steering and turns it into analog instructions for your autopilot. There should be lots of used options available right now.

My opinion, if it’s big enough, fast enough, capable enough for your mission, keep it. Improve it as you can, you’ll never be done. Impossible. It’s not a destination, it’s a journey. If you sell it for $125k and buy an Ovation for $200k you’re likely to still need avionics, engine, and paint at some point. Further, you’ve got more tied up in it. Oh and you had all the expenses of buying and selling. Now if you want a turbo or need to go faster or FIKI, then buy something that’s close to what you want, but there will still be improvements unless you’re buying a new airplane.

Ask @Parker_Woodruff. I’d call and talk to him, he knows the market.

Personally, at 1850 hours total (original engine?) and top 11 years ago, I’d try to work a deal that prices it pretty much run out. Check the basics on prebuy and oil analysis. If it gives you another 400 hours, feel good about it. Unfortunately it’s a sellers market, so maybe the seller won’t like that plan?

I definitely agree they have known about these issues for a long time and could have fixed most with software. We don’t need instantaneous readout of our fuel or oil pressure. However, they also use transducers that rely on millivolt differences to report pressure. Those transducers live in our engine compartment along with a whole host of emi generating stuff - ignition wires, spark plugs, magnetos, alternators, etc. I bet I’ll install snubbers and still have some issues. Already I’m planning to move my jpi ground wire. Currently it comes through the same firewall hole as my ~50 year old P leads.

So far only new systems like new V jets and M600s. No retrofits. You need auto throttle(s), so that’s a dealbreaker for most small airplanes.

Can you point me to the exact snubber you used? I am looking for a fuel pressure one as well since my jpi 930 has some erratic indications. I see one for air and one for light oil and water. Not one for fuel? Jpi had steered me toward Omega snubbers but said Chemiquip also had them.

I agree, somewhere between 1500-2500 installation labor is reasonable depending on exact situation. Mine were on the high side of that but they are connected to the gps and autopilot.

Our hangar “condo” complex actually strongly encouraged a member to sell recently as he had no airplane but didn’t want to hang it up. For a couple years. We have also been inspected by the local airport authority. The situations you mentioned about car storage, etc are real and they would drive me crazy if my airplane was outside.

Yes, I’ve been reading through his old posts. I think there’s also some differences in the mechanical gage discussed in this thread vs the electronic transducer in my jpi.

Never say “definitely” with oil. Crazy airflow everywhere in the engine compartment, even back there, and the oil just spreads so easily. I’d probably look at the mag gasket first, then go to your other more exotic leak locations on the mag. Be prepared to not find it right away!

Ok, I gotta ask because I thought this was supposed to be the other way around, and I’m having fuel and oil pressure fluctuations in my jpi… Are you saying there’s supposed to be air in the line leading to the fuel pressure (and oil pressure) transducer? I have the jpi electrical (and super/overly sensitive) transducers and I’m getting jumpy indications. The oil pressure line has no air in it at all. Not sure about the fuel line. How are they supposed to be?

Thanks. Yeah I think the failure mode is fairly unlikely, especially since you have two batteries and maybe dual alternators? I guess the thing that spooked me is that a total electrical failure would take out my gps input to the G5s as well as the pitot heat which could take out the airspeed input. I’d like to think the G5s would keep working, but this thread has made me rethink that.

Is it battery backed up? What model is it? After this thread, I wouldn’t mind having some type of backup, but I’m skeptical of going all the way back to the vacuum pump.

I eventually found the jumper within the tangle of CB wires. It had been moved at some point and left me with my 50amp aux bus cb powered through about a 18g wire. Moved the original jumper to its proper location and cleaned all the contacts. All is well. I would have to guess that it’s 8g wire.

I agree with everything you said, but my F will definitely go faster than 120 on 9gph. Have you tried LOP at ~8,000’? You should be close to 140+ and 9gph.

Real nice looking airplane. Glad you didn’t hit a bump with the flat and end up with a prop strike too! Few hours in the Alabama sun is better than that!

As a CFI, I’d be celebrating that phone call from your son that kicks off a multi hour road trip. It means he’s realized he’s not indestructible and is learning to make good aviation decisions.

Check to see if you can get insurance on an F. Complex/retractable is tough with brand new ppl. Possible, but could be prohibitively expensive.

Do what the above two guys said. Your takeoff and cruise cht/egts are pretty close to mine (within about 20 degrees cht and 30-50 degrees egt).