Yetti

Is this were Maurader and I return the favor and say we don't have all these issues with electric gear and flaps.... Messy red colored flammable mineral oil all over the place. yech! Just wondering :-)

I am going to test fit a center mount idea I have and then make available as owner produced. See the other thread in this forum

Probably was not making myself clear. Maybe the Cirrus is not a good primary trainer because of the side stick and the springs. In stall practice you will see a CFI put both hands under each side of the yoke to make sure it stays level. The side stick would need to be able to yank back to a relative position to be level. Yanking and relative position are not achievable This article talks about the springs and not being able to feel the plane. http://philip.greenspun.com/flying/cirrus-sr20 My transition instructor could feel the plane. 1/8 of a ball outside and he would speak to you about the rudder. A little slow on base or final he would let you know (luckily I was feeling it to and already reaching for the throttle. I think the PC system is the input that creates the dump truck feel which removes the twitchyness that the Mooney could have. Never flown a Cirrus, never flown an Ovation

The valve lapping compound is the other trick. Usually the wrench on the screw driver is most workable. I just had to do that tonight on a disc rotor on a mtn bike wheel tonight...

I hate commenting since I would hate y'all to speculate on when I screw up. Navasota is a hop skip and jump from Brenham so this one make me sad. It is the pop over and do a quick landing in the evening airport. One story I read was that there was an instructor teaching a primary student stalls in a Cirrus and could not overcome the student doing bad things with the stick. http://studentpilot.com/interact/forum/showthread.php?39859-Unintentional-spin-in-a-Cirrus Looks like he bought the plane in Feb of this year. My understanding is the CFI was really good. based on the mooney control inputs which are very very small, a large input on the Cirrus stick at the wrong time could be bad. Maybe the Cirrus is not such a good idea for a primary trainer

Snap on screw drivers have a place to put a wrench on them plus they tend to grip well. Pressure with one hand wrench with the other. There are two different #2 phillip heads. Get them both and use the proper one. Sometimes giving them a little tighten then trying to loosen. You will need to chase down a snap on truck or maybe they have online sales these days. Next step I used on access covers if the head got buggered was to cut a slot in them with a cut off bit on a dremel tool. Avgas fumes and sparks are a bad idea. Outside is not always a bad thing.

Do you have a new head liner? Can you get behind the headliner the the tubular structure?

Yes. The mount will be designed to mount a camera and/or to mount visors. Thinking about putting ability to mount two cameras. Left and right. If people want a flexible arm either center mount or factory tab mount.That could also be an option Also have an idea for a flexible arm with a sliding piece of poly carbonate Made the patterns for the factory poly carbonate if anyone is in need.

Oh and the pump became suspect when I took it up to 5000 feet after annual and I saw the FP stumble a bit on the guage

Since that is the normal start procedure, I don't know how long it should hold. cause I am usually hitting the starter. Say at least 30 seconds to a minute. Mine was falling off immediately after I turned off the boost pump. Depending on how you shut down the engine, according to Maxwell article some fuel can come out of the induction area

The first picture on top is the stock Mooney supplied sun visor for the internal tab mount. The bottom is the Yetti made. Still need some clamps to affix the poly carbonate. What is interesting is the Mooney parts are very much hand made. The poly carbonate is not really square. The is the working model of the center mount. Made from red oak (thought I would use wood vs. cutting up the $50.00 piece of alum stock). The long bar is the camera mount.

Sometimes the drains are tide together some times they are separate. What model plane? http://www.donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/External_Hoses/External_Hoses_Tubes.htm To test if it is the mech pump. Boost pump on, Open mixture full Count to six Close mixture boost pump off see if pressure holds on FP guage If not, replace mechanical pump

So one day on my F which I think has the same as the J catches the latch came apart. The original pin that holds it all together which is flared on both ends had become unflared. You may find that a stainless cotter pin is the same size as the flared pin. They seem simple, to put back together, but a third hand may help. If you want to get fancy, a washer outside on the cotter pin should help things.

Need pictures. Some people think Mooneys are smaller and hard to fly. I am 6'9" tall and fit fine and think Mooneys are easy to fly

Because in Texas the person in the right seat (shotgun) has to open the gates

Mr Yetti "Talk to me Goose" Mrs. Yetti "Show me some of that pilot stuff" "Mavrick" Fist Bump

Closest I could find was a 64(1)-112 http://airfoiltools.com/search/index?m[textSearch]=&m[maxCamber]=&m[minCamber]=&m[maxThickness]=&m[minThickness]=&m[grp]=naca6&m[sort]=1&m =3&m[count]=73

cheep walmart tool box, tye wraps, 2 spark plugs, scissors, flashlights, Extra sump drains. lots of screws

As much as I like shade tree engineering.... u clamps where you have to look at them seems so wrong. There seems like there would be room to mount a camera. So last weekend a couple of measurements were made. The center post lives at a 40 degree angle. the 75 F has the factory sun visors so there is a nice pattern to go from. Some 2" bar stock and 3/4" round stock and 1/8" stainless rod were procured today. Here are the pictures of the factory visors And a close up of the mount. There is a threaded tab welded to the cromoly frame that the mount screws in to. Will probably use adel clamps to attach the tinted poly sheet. They should hold better than the plastic from the factory, If you have the tabs and looking for the hardware to attach, that will be the first project. Recreate what is there. The second project will be to convert the 2' bar stock into a visor/camera mount. Using the stainless rod bent at a right angle out of the top of the mount should give good articulation. The camera is going to be more of a hard mount. Rustoleum Satin Nickle paint on the panels if you are curious. .

Yep that's him.... I think I would probably sew my own now that I have some practice. I have some left over naugahide from the back seat bottom...Get an ice pick and some needle nose pliers to hold the speed nuts.

Guy on ebay sells by the foot Classic auto trim of Nevada

I have been android phone for a good while, don't want to become an I white drone. The Stratux was pretty good idea. I now have 2 SDR tuners for each of the bands and it auto recognizes. After they did an upgrade the droidEFB was not getting traffic. Stratux added a web page so you can check status of the different data feeds. Point your browser at 192.168.10.1 So data was coming in but no targets and no towers even flying over to the Austin area to get cheap gas. So you have to change a port number in the stratux.conf file for DroidEFB to work. First go to the web page and enter your aircraft oct code in so it will create the stratux.conf file For a windows machine I used Putty to telnet to the raspberry PI. You connect to the stratux wireless network with your laptop just like the android device Then do this 1. cd /etc ---- navigate to the root/etc directory: 2. ls -la ---- command to verify you are in the right place: pi@raspberrypi /etc $ ls -la stratux.conf -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 280 Oct 23 10:18 stratux.conf 3. sudo nano stratux.conf --- Launch nano to edit the stratux.conf file: pi@raspberrypi /etc $ 4. Change the Port number from 4000 to 43211: From: {"Conn":null,"Ip":"","Port":4000,"Capability":5} To: {"Conn":null,"Ip":"","Port":43211,"Capability":5} 5. Exit nano and save the changes. 6. Restart the R-Pi / Stratux by entering: sudo shutdown –r now (When the R-Pi restarts it will disconnect from the remote SSH session. Just log back in after it reboots.) Bam Targets started showing up Next up is to run coax from the Loran C antenna to the back of the plane to use the certified external antenna. May have to trim it a bit to get the right quarterwave

Words of wisdom: Blue is good - Brown is bad. One day just for fun I nosed it over just a little and scared myself. The ASI needle was moving fast to the yellow.

Looks like the cable ferrule slipped off the outer sheath. Frayed knot.

The straight pipe exhaust seems a bit small and is some more drag. Engines are just big wind pumps move the air through them most efficiently. Pretty paint job. Nice color scheme