Yetti

I could build yokes out of wood with some alum inserts. Hmmm that thought never crossed my mind... but now that it has been suggested. Owner supplied part

Spruce is usually in the wings spars

If I wanted to redo the interior of the mooney in some nice mahogany... would that fly. I would probably dispense with the sconces

Hmm maybe I should shorten mine, of I wonder of the retrofit for a retractable

My comment was not for you. For those soon to attempt it. On the passenger side I was twisting it past the window. I also did not realize they were jam nuts, so I took the first one off thinking I was cross threading. Then I put is on with the flat ratchet and had to figure out how to get the ratchet out. You are pretty good at it after the second one is done.

If you read the instructions, they say to start high with the clamp to get it around the tube, then side it down. on the pilot this requires removing some screws that hold the skin on and bending the skin tab out.

A little bit. The trick is to open them up with two screw drivers and then work the angles, you close them with channel locks as they go around the tube. The passenger is easier. Once you get good at it you will be done. Some blue scotch tape with an open end wrench will hold the nut while you put it all together.

drill it and stick a bolt in it

That is the one that come with the am safe kit. I was not a fan of the mechanics of the install. If you need it, the clamp is going to be rotating around the tube and put a weird angle, But it is about the same size as a the bolts that hold the motor mount to the airframe. And if you need it that much the airframe may not be reusable anyways.

I wonder if ADSB OUT could be "owner supplied" part? It is about $300 dollars in off the shelf parts.

You can put a disconnect on the panel, but you would need paper work from Brittan Industries which they will help you with. Only some models can do this and it basically a switch to ground the system.

did anyone notice that this 74 F was listed with a 180HP engine. Also what is with the later Fs having a 4 digit Victor N number? N9999V

if it was never broke, was it ever fixed

A quick SB check is to take a magnet and test each end of the prop govern oil supply line. The magnet should stick. This would mean one of the Lycoming ADs was complied with.

The steel tubing is most likely all primed and painted on the outside on this plane. The earlier planes had bare steel that tended to corrode. The inside of the tubing was treated with boiled linseed oil prior to welding. So not a big worry. buy it. fly it till it makes metal in the filter and have fun You should think about replacing the Adel clamps that attach hoses to things the rubber has become hard an will rub paint away.

It is probably a 1975 or better model $2200 to replace some tubing for the PC system and rebuild 4 servos along with the Turn coordinator and AH Gyro $1100 for new hoses - owner maintenance about 20-30 hours to install smaller hands may go faster $300 for new tires and tubes $3000-5000 for ADSB out $700 in parts for rebuilding both mags $500 for owner done interior Tools, parts and lubrication $1000 Propeller has not been painted an has old stickers $200 for eddy current $2000 for reseal Getting to know your plane by fixing it. Priceless Getting to fly something that you know intimately Priceless He is probably pretty close on price.

There is a mil spec cross reference. http://dovesnestfarm.com/wordpress/milspeccrossref.pdf I think most mil spec stuff is mineral oil with different colored dyes. Water Displacement-40 is not what I would put in the lubricant catagory. Sometimes a good cleaner though when you need to flush things out. What I have noticed about the Liquid Wrench Silicone spray is it makes a pretty good cleaner of old oil and grease.

didn't they already do that back in '87 http://dovesnestfarm.com/wordpress/mooney231avcon.pdf

The avionics relay in a 75 F is on the starboard bulkhead about 4 inches behind the panel about 6 inches up. Best viewed when on your back laying on the floor. Looked through the S&M Manual for some information. Have not found it.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055E1RLM/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Can't believe you removed all that free bottom panel oil corrosion protection. People pay lots of money to spray oil on their aluminum.

Some #6 stainless screws and finish washers would brighten up the trim pieces. Looks good

Internal firesleeved teflon on all the new ones. The oil and fuel hose inside the cockpit are stainless braided teflon, so we should be good for a long while

An undertaking not for the faint of heart, not all wrenches survived intact a bit of grinding here and shortening there, but 9 less things to worry about.

Alum foil tape from the AC ducting section of homer dan to seal all the gaps and holes up prior to velcro/ two sided carpet tape.