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Best aftermarket lettering I've seen yet. Great job! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That's a Dukes, but there's good news. You may not need the "kit". Weldon now makes a pump that is a direct replacement for the Dukes. This info came directly from Weldon just 2 weeks ago: "The 18020-A is a drop-in replacement for the Dukes 1499-00-19A. Weldon can also claim installation eligibility for the 18020-A on the M20-J airframe. The serial number you reference 24-XXXX is within the range listed on FAA website (Mooney Airplane Company (M20J S/N thru 24-2999)." John DeMatteis, Weldon Pump, 440-232-2282 ext. 118 If you're trying to install a Weldon A8163-B then you might need the expensive conversion kit. This is exactly the information I've received (in 2017) as well. In fact I contacted Aeromotors and had a long conversation with a technician there who told me (in condensed form): 1. Original Dukes pumps contained fragile impellers. 2. Dukes later switched to a different material that would pick up foreign material and embed it in the impeller causing it to become inherently abrasive. 3. Previous overhauls required installation of Dukes manufactured replacement parts (which were supplied in kit form) that while not "fragile" were still problematic (see #2 above). 4. Aeromotors sought and received approval to manufacture parts for these pumps from proprietary materials. 5. Since switching to their own replacement parts Aeromotors has seen greatly enhanced durability from these pumps. Only Aeromotors uses these parts. 6. They tested the newly rebuilt pumps for continuous duty for a few hundred hours, even running them dry with no problems (but I still believe they don't advertise them as continuous duty). 7. The current rebuild price is $400 and typically also includes a new armature in the older pumps. After the horror stories I've been told about the rebuilt Dukes I was absolutely switching to a Weldon when that time came but at $1,236 (AS current price) I believe I'll give Aeromotors a shot instead. They COULD be lying out their arse about all of this but I believe the gentleman I spoke with was being truthful with me as he spoke at length and in great detail about the entire issue.

Stunning alto-cumulus photo! We had a similar coverage here the other day but with the sun overhead. I took far fewer cloud pics before I became a pilot. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Shane, is this right? Self-serve? That's not shown on Foreflight or Airnav. I thought those tanks were for the FBO's full-service fuel only. I hope I'm wrong 'cause I stop there fairly often. I like to purchase fuel from facilities I visit but at $5.60/gal. I'm fearful of my CB club card being revoked. BTW, we really appreciate your efforts with the Klixon covers. I'll likely need a set someday in the near future. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

One more note regarding Austin Exec... Their newest policy is to charge their $10 overnight tie-down fee whether you purchase fuel or not. I think the fee is fair but their fuel is currently displaying on Foreflight as $2.20 higher than the SS municipal pump at Georgetown just a few miles north. It is a nice facility though. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just got back in from our trip. I saw 3-4 at times during taxi but still ranged only 0-1 during flight. Headwinds were AWFUL peaking at 44 knots near Dallas, and that was at the best altitude according to winds aloft reports. Here's where the Sensorcon is mounted in my J. It fits better sideways, otherwise it would interfere with my cup holder or obscure the ventilation labels. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I can't answer about your Avidyne unit specifically but the Garmin GTX330ES is a similar device and has a programming setting that identifies you as being ADS-B "in" capable (even if your receiver is non-certified like a Stratus, etc.). IIRC the towers won't ping you unless that setting is programmed properly (unless you're in somebody else's puck of course). Avidyne may have this "on" by default, but perhaps not. Their tech support should be able to answer that question quickly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Excellent observational skills. You should be a pilot! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Brief note: On my 425 nm trip north yesterday, with the heater off my new Sensorcon showed 2-3 on the taxi out then displayed 0-1 while in cruise. It never got cool enough to open the heater without annoying my wife and/or killing the dog. More later. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

IMO this is a non-issue if you've simply got a bad plug as the small amount of fuel from one dead cylinder is quickly scavenged from the exhaust system. I can assure you that at least in a four-banger you'll be switching the ignition back to "both" quickly on instinct alone. Now if your "mag" is dead there might be some greater potential for exhaust damage on restart (if the throttle is left open). But then I'm pretty sure I would recognize a dead mag long before turning the mag switch since all four of my EGT readings would be near 1,500 F. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My question is... "what would happen to the previous 100,000+ posts in the two existing forums?" Is somebody going to sort them out or is the search engine going to provide new options? Much of what's discussed here has already been said at some point in the past.

You are absolutely right; sorry for my confusion. When I saw the words "19nm, well within gliding distance" (from 5,000 agl) my heart skipped a beat.[emoji846] Isn't it amazing how many strange noises an engine makes when flying over water? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Very interesting info. Thanks for noting it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just to keep it real here, my J would need to be at 8,000 agl to glide 19nm (my POH says 8,750 agl). 5,000' buys me about 11-12 miles at most. I'm not wanting to come across as an "arse" (as Andrew would put it[emoji846]); I just wanted to make sure nobody might try to stretch a glide that far. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That's a good point Bob but don't forget to determine whether or not the sensor can be replaced. They'll replace the sensor and calibrate the Sensorcon unit for $60 as I understand. The EOL warning pops up after 2 years but the unit continues to work, albeit with less accuracy. My primary reason for choosing this unit was the fact that it's made in the US and that they actively support the product. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

One more note on my initial pirep of the sensorcon detector... the clip on the back is easily removed by removing one machine-screw which is screwed into a threaded brass insert. I used a 3M Command picture-hanging strip to attach it to the panel. If you're not familiar with them you can easily attach items but then remove them later without leaving any residue behind. These also attach my folding drink-holder to the console. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What he said.[emoji51] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I received my new Sensorcon CO detector today and will give a full prep on it Monday after returning from an 850nm trip departing tomorrow. On first observations let me state: The build-quality seems excellent with a solid feel and robust design. It was a bit heavier than expected. When I put it near my car's exhaust it immediately started registering on the display and as it passed 35ppm the LEDs started flashing. Now on the downside, I expected the audible alarm to be louder; the specs listed it as 80-85 db but it was actually about half that. With a headset or a running engine it would be inaudible. The unit is about the size of a credit card so after some consideration I decided to mount it on the lower console below my vent/heater/defroster controls where I will easily see the flashing LEDs in the event of an alarm. I should also add that after exposing it to a very high level (~1,000 ppm) of CO in my exhaust stream it took a considerable time for the level to return to zero. It quickly went well below the alarm level of 35 but it remained between 0-10 for a good while (I believe this is normal). That's it for now, I just wanted to share these details before others make a final decision on it. One more thing, I'd be interested in sharing the cost of a calibration kit with others on MS if more of you buy one of these units. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here's a link to a summary of recommended exposure limits. http://transducertech.com/pocketco/govco.html I believe units such as these are certainly better than nothing and would be valuable for gross exhaust leaks. They are inadequate for detecting the early stages of a problem when the exhaust first begins leaking and the only symptoms are a minor headache. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

IMHO the first thing I would look for is the level at which the alarm sounds. I don't see that info anywhere for that unit (no technical specs listed). A reviewer on Amazon stated... "As hard as I tried to find the "sensitivity levels" of this unit, no where in the product info or even the packaging does it indicate at what levels the alarm sounds. The only place I could find any info on that at all was on the back of the actual unit in small letters. This alarm will sound within 15 minutes of a 400ppm reading... this is actually well above lethal levels of CO! A good detector should sound at readings of about 70ppm, even better at 30ppm. Levels of 90ppm+ can render someone unconcious, so at levels of 400ppm you wouldn't even be able to hear the alarm as you will likely already be unconscious if not dead!" This is why I believe purchasing a low-level sensor is vital. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

FYI the one I have on order offers quantity discounts on as few as 5 units. It's made in the U.S., has a replaceable sensor, and detects low levels. If I hadn't already ordered one I'd have run point for the savings alone. http://sensorcon.com/collections/carbon-monoxide-meters/products/portable-carbon-monoxide-detector-meter?variant=4193480964 P.S. I have no connection or interest in this company. There seem to be several acceptable models on the market nowadays. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My iPad's acting up again. I'm starting to get some interesting new ads on Mooneyspace using the Tapatalk app. I obviously need to start paying more attention to the Olympics! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It sounds like you and your partner have done a great job of managing the engine so far, but could you do better? I'd guess "yes". You've gotten some great advice from the comments above but I'd like to appeal to your partner's sense of economics a bit more. You've stashed away $20/hour for the engine fund. That's great! But engines don't unexpectedly die at TBO (as stated above), particularly when you fly them regularly. So first of all please don't do surgery on a healthy patient. Now we all get a little sick now and again, so it's a good idea to get a checkup occasionally. By using an engine monitor it's like you're getting a checkup on EVERY FLIGHT. I, for one, download every flight from my monitor and upload to the Savvy Analysis site for my/their review. After a short time it's pretty easy to spot something out of the ordinary. And then every few months they send me a "report card" comparing my engine and operating parameters to 149 other M20-F/J aircraft (5,388 comparison flights on my last report). If they see something really serious they'll contact me right away. So, how do you lean your engine? If using only one EGT probe you likely run ROP. But what are the other 3 cylinders doing? One (or more) of them may be running too lean which may eventually cause problems with cylinder temps or valves. Or perhaps they're running much richer than the probed cylinder (which is just pumping expensive fuel out the exhaust pipe). Many here achieve good LOP performance with their IO360s by simply swapping injectors around to find the best balance. You can easily save 2.5-3.0 gph which amounts to more than $10/hour savings with 100LL @ $3.35-$4.00/gallon. Those savings alone amount to $20,000 over the course of your TBO. But wait; there's more. If you can safely fly the plane another 500 hours (past TBO) then you've contributed another $10,000 to the engine fund and saved another $5,000 in fuel expense. Now your talking some serious savings! Even if you have to rework a cylinder or two to make it 500 hours beyond TBO you've only spent ~$4,000 to save $15,000. There are a lot of things you could do with that $11,000; maybe even add one of those newfangled AOA indicators that 201er insists we all have. Anyway, I pulled out an older functional EI monitor to replace with my JPI-830 and I love having it. After having been party to a cylinder departing an aircraft as a teenager I could not imagine flying around without a modern monitor. Lycoming 3-cylinders don't make for a well-balanced engine.

I'm mostly curious if the sensor can be replaced. I know the home-type CO detectors are throw-away units but cheap to replace at Walmart or Home Depot. The CO Experts model is supposed to last a while but the manufacturer is old, blind, and the website looks like he's selling snake-oil (http://coexperts.com). If I was going to spend that kind of money I'd likely go with a panel-mount Guardian. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I looked and saw this unit was not available, but the price looked attractive. Still I can't find any info on the manufacturer. Did they include a manual with more specs, and can you send it in for an eventual sensor replacement? I like that the US-made detectors can easily have sensors replaced for a reasonable cost. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk