MB65E

What a bummer. Hail and now this. "love the one your with"!! Keep the cam and re-grind it. Make sure the shop nitrates it. New lifters. Or overhauled lifters and new cam. I'd try to keep the cam if you can. I needed a new cam to get rid of the two piece. Went with the Lycoming part. I used re-ground lifters from AIrcraft specialties services. I was going to mention century lube as well. good luck. -Matt

Mineral spirits works well for the grease and oil. I'd use Acetone on a wrag to knock the adhesive off. Just be careful with the windscreen. Cheers, -Matt

Well done! They look better than the originals. Let us know the cost if you decide to turn this into a small side business. Nice work, -Matt

How did the flight go Scott? Glad your back in the air. -Matt

I personally don't have any fire sleeve installed on over the wires on the m20. I have used it in the past, looks nice, but overkill and expensive. I use the silicone uni wrap tape where needed under zip-Ty's. Spiral wrap if I have a loom that might rub near something. Make sure it's the hi temp aviation type. I have pealed it from ignition harnesses after its melted away. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/uniwrap.php?clickkey=21224 -Matt

Hack Saw blade = Laser Accuracy -Matt

Glad the site is functional again. The old site had the SB's but I was not familiar with some of the Service Letters. I printed several off to cross check with the airplane. thanks, -Matt

No regrets. I used all the existing wiring. It was less than $800 at the time for just the head unit. They offer a nice discount to IA's so hopefully your IA can pass it along. Good Company that I think wants to play ball with the others. I've used it for maybe 110hrs. -Matt

I like the G1 it replaced my 602. I really like the numbers from peak that it lists. No video but I'll try to find a picture. -Matt

I hope he doesn't yell at you... If you have grater than 250 hours on the mags. I would pull both mags and send them off to one of the shops listed in this thread. The reason I say both is I have never seen a turbo engine mag last more than 350hrs. I think less than $1500 for everything and you can be flying again. 500 each mag, 500 installed with paperwork. Make sure the standoff gaskets are replaced too. -Matt

Who overhauls them? I have a dead spare. They appear pretty simple. I just didn't want to cut into them and open them up. -Matt

It should be LW-13792 -Matt

Good luck! Boxes of gloves and scrapers. 3204 is the recommended sealant. You shouldn't need to coat the entire tank. The sealant just needs to be in the right places. It's all in the maintenance manual. Don Maxwell has several nice articles. -Matt

The pic was from the Paris Airshow. I just grabbed it from a link from the Airshow. French registration. -Matt

Looks awesome!! I really like what you are doing. Trend setting vs the 13k paint job!! In the "if it was mine" category, and I wanted the Leading edges painted... I would have a half of a scallop from the leading edge the inboard portion of the wing root. Much like you have on the tip but inboard. I wouldn't do two colors on the wings unless it was just some trim on the tips maybe green and white like the mid 70's 201's were with the 2 piano keys (tips and ailerons) I really like the darker green metallics!! Trimmed in white I think it would be really pretty. Unless I flew to Mexico more than 2x per year, I would do small Registration numbers on the tail, like others have said, more old school like. Also, so many Moonies have been painted with the trim system all out of whack. Then the stripes look silly! I would make sure to paint the stripes with the trim system in the landing position. (Unless you retrim for T/O post flight). That way the long likes you have will line up. The Luscumbe pictured is what I was talking about regarding the inboard scallop. I'm going to need to fly up and see it when it's done!! best, -Matt

Ok who snagged the EBAY travel boards today.... -Matt

The weight of the screws was surprising. Dash S3 and S4 lengths work but they are harder to get the panels threaded initially due to the curve in the panel. I think I put all mine in this year with S4 lengths. I did Knocked some light corrosion off, epoxy primed areas, then a can of Corrosion X in each wing. Needless to say, the wings were opened for a bit. FYI- fwiw, I had a slight crack in a Rib gusset piece in the left wing just outboard of the MLG aft of the spar. Just clicked 4k hrs... -Matt

Maybe they will actually make the cars better than they were. More like it should have been built in the first place. -Matt

Bose X headsets don't have Bluetooth. I personally like the X's better than the A20s. Also they have a much smaller controller with out the batteries. I just sent mine into Bose for refurb after a broken connector. $170- new com cord, controller, mic, ear cups, and head cushion. Not bad. -Matt

I there are 376 screws in the M20E wing. This does not count the belly panels or wing tank panels. The panels are structural so make sure you don't have the light stainless screws in there. N1395W has the correct ones. I used cad steel screws as I think they last longer than the stainless wrt the threads. I figured out why they call it the Mark 21... 21 panels in each wing! -Matt

It'd be wise to change the vac pump. I'd run the other two on condition until they show the slightest signs of weakness. -Matt

Yes... Front gear housing threw me off a bit too. If it's up front by the starter ring gear, I would stick my finger behind the flywheel inside and see if/how oily it is. If it's wet, you might need a crank seal gasket. Oil patterns amazed me when I had any issue with crank seals. 4 seals later... With the stock baffling/doghouse I would get build up on the left inside portion of the dog house. Then it would blow around the engine and make a mess. Oil would also be blown up over the top cowl then all over the airplane. Also, The dipstick can come loose easily. I think due to the exhaust restrictions on the right side, the air/oil patters flow better to the left side, thus covering the left nose gear door. Mags, and prop governors can leak too. I have had really good luck with the permetex ultra black sealant with sealing case halfs, warped standoff plates, crank seals (external), thru bolts, and many other areas. I have had better luck recently with this process vs any aviation product available. (Plyobond, pro-seal, Locktite, halyomar, etc). If your nearing an oil change, some UV dye may help. Clean everything really well, night engine run, with black light. Careful of the prop!! Be sure to flush the oil with fresh oil once you are done with the Dye. I wouldn't recommend flying with it. I don't want to be the bad guy, but check the case for wetness behind the starter near the #2 lower cylinder attachments. It's really hard to see if it's cracked. Mine had a 5in crack in it. Oil would streak out the left cowl cheek almost to the side window. It was missed by a MSC annual... It's the most rewarding feeling once you find the leak!! I would know just after takeoff once I closed the cowl flaps if I had fixed it or not. So nice to wipe bugs instead of oil from the windscreen. This pic was after a 15 min flight. I finally changed the crank seal one more time. Then sealed the front case halfs and crank seal together. No more oil leaks!! Great Luck, -Matt

They are just pissed because they are not in a Jet. Nice stories! I like the fact you asked about a Med flight. Fly safe, keep your speed up! -Matt

Darn, 6mo late... I purchased a new MAC this summer for just a bit more. Killer deal guys! -Matt

Well done! A great mentor told me not to ever do something with gps, XM, or whatever gadget that you would not do with out it. You'll be looking out the window of that 737 smiling at all the scud today. "Drink sir"?... Yes please! -Matt