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So it’s been a while since many of you switched to SureFly. I’m in the process of installing Surefly on my 70C . I’ve heard a few rumors the C models CHT’s may run hotter when selecting the variable timing mode. Have any other C drivers noticed hotter CHT’s ? Is it worth setting a carbed O-360 to variable timing or would you stay fixed like the right mag ? Thanks Ed

If it’s above your ability or your local mechanics ability you could also visit your local EAA chapter, this would be easy for them since most have built aircraft and have a good amount of metal experience. Many are retired and some are A&P’s / IA’s.

Hello, I’m interested. How old is the unit and battery?

I installed the YD and like it. After establishing climb I turn it on and my feet can go to the floor if I like. Really nice on rough climb out’s and or long bumpy flights.

I installed my tips back in the late 90’s I think I still have the drawings, pretty easy to install. I’ll look later when I get home. After my install I did notice a tad more roll response during the landing flare which I like during turbulent landings. They sure look cool, I thought they were worth the purchase.

I’m building the -7 Tailwheel / Slider. Just moved it to my new place so I can proceed with the fire wall forward.

When I use to be in the aircraft window polishing business I used thin CA for customers with minor cracks like this, had good results.

I had the Tanis system installed 8 years ago with the sump and intake bolt adapters, works great and warms the entire engine.

A dimmable automotive led strip light that plugs into a 12 volt cigar socket works nicely under the glair shield / dash pad. Blue works good, lights up my entire panel when needed. Amazon has many options.

Very nice.

For local maintenance I’d highly recommend Jeff with Fly America out of DKB. He is very good with many years of Mooney experience.

I originally had my my S-tec30 with gpss installed back in 2003. I thought it was good at the time but never very precise, in the bumps it always wondered a bit plus it lacked many features I really wanted. It still worked when removed. THEN I went up in a A36 with a GFC autopilot ( complete system ) and that did it for me. I was amazed how stable, smooth and precise it was. I also really liked the approach capabilities felt like I was in a biz jet.

He decided to go for it, currently being installed. Not sure about short and mid body differences, I've only flown the GFC500 in a A36 (which opened my eyes to the GFC500) an Arrow and my Mooney. I’ll fly in my neighbors 231 once it’s finished,.

People would tell me I didn’t need a yaw damper on my short body but I thought since I’m pulling a S-Tec30 out and installing a GFC500 I might as well go all the way, very happy I did. Take regular trips say 2-4 hours and then have to return the same day in pretty bumpy air and you will have a much more relaxed / enjoyable ride with it. Like many others have said, the ones with it will say you need it and the ones without will say you don’t. My neighbor asked me if I thought the damper was needed so I took him for a ride on yet another bumpy day, we turned it on and off many times so he could make his own decision what worked best for him.

IFD and ForFlight work very well together.

Many years ago I had the S-tec 30 with gpss installed and was never really happy with it, seemed to not hold alt or heading very well. Last year decided to take the plunge and have 2 G5’s and the GFC 500 installed and I have no regrets, night and day difference and really nice on IFR trips

I’m interested.

I originally installed my IFD540 with a S-Tec30 auto pilot then afterwards I added two G5s, worked great. Last spring I had the avionics shop remove the S-Tec 30 and added the 4 servo GFC 500, I also really love the IFD and this set up does everything I need, climbs, descents full IfR navigation, approaches etc.

GFC500

My IfD540, 2G5’s and GFC500 work excellent together.

Nice video, I really like your new Mooney.

A vibrating saw works really good too, pretty fool proof and if you ever have to cut / trim I highly recommend that one does NOT cut / trim in a cold environment. I heated my shop up to 72 for good part of the day. The picture below is after I cut (using a vibrating tool) the bubble for my RV separating the sliding canopy and windscreen portion, after trimming I highly recommend sanding and polishing edge's.

I used MEK and scrapers, worked the best for me.

Side windows are not difficult to replace. Remove screws, mark / number retaining clips if you have them, break old sealant and remove windows. Clean up old sealant, pre fit new windows, match drill holes with a high quality drill bit for plastics / acrylic's, cleco in place after each holes is match drilled, mask off exterior very close to window skin edge, apply sealant ( I used fuel tank sealant ) to surrounding interior frame, set windows in place, install clips if you have them and screws. lightly snug screws then final torque. Labor times will vary depending on skill level, my side windows took about 20 hours with clean up. I would buy the best bits since there are many holes to match drill, don’t want to crack one.

Another option that works really good. Schauer JAC25