Andy95W

Nice! Any chance you'd lend it out if you are anywhere near Michigan?

Why do you not need a tool for the main gear? How do you compress the discs? Also, I loved the turnbuckle idea for the nose gear. Any downside?

Is the RPM in metric or English units?

Glareshield it is! Thanks to everybody for the information. Has anybody tried an external antenna, or is it not worth the trouble?

I just bought a GDL-39 and will pair it with an Aera 500 and an iPad running Garmin Pilot. Does anyone have any experience with heat when mounting the GDL39 on the glareshield? Does anyone have any experience putting the GDL39 in any other location and still getting good reception without using external antennas? I read on a Vans Air Force forum that one guy had put it between the seats and it still worked fine. Any opinions? Or should I just leave it on the glareshield like I originally intended?

It is a typo. The part number for the M20C fuel pump is 4140-00-21; the replacement part from Spruce is 4140-00-21ACJ. The pump for the fuel injected engines (M20E) is -19. You can find this from the Spruce catalog page under "Documents" and "Model Eligibility". Good luck!

I agree with cujet. If money is an issue, or if you are completely against the full major overhaul, then simply repairing what you have is the most cost effective way to go. Your cylinders do not need to be overhauled, just repaired (referred to as IRAN- Inspect and Repair As Necessary). And if you want to Top Overhaul the engine, keep your own cylinders like cujet said and send them to a reputable shop. If yours are junk they will let you know.

Replaced bottom spark plugs only with Tempest fine wires to save a little money. Runs smooth and no more plug fouling!

I need to get Bob to polish mine!

And thanks for the note about Bill Wheat. Hope he's doing okay.

Good luck, Cliffy. The more I dig into the old Service Manuals, the more I'm convinced they did things back then to the TLAR method... That Looks About Right.

Mooney 201 for me. I think I'll keep my C model and put the difference into avgas.

But wait, there's more. There is another thread going "Just found out my C is junk" that is more specifically about the stub spar assembly. This smaller spar is located to the rear of the back seat/forward edge of the baggage compartment and further outboard becomes the rear mount for the main landing gear pivot points. These are notorious for accumulating moisture and then corrosion, so much so that in the 70's Mooney started painting them with good corrosion resisting paint. For all pre-201's, I'll bet that most have at least some corrosion that is on the verge of full-blown intergranular corrosion of the extruded angle aluminum. This is extremely difficult to inspect for and requires some contorting with an inspection mirror, or removal of the baggage floor. I inspect this stub spar every annual and go nuts with the Corrosion X on it. BTW, I have rarely found significant corrosion on the main spar, but it is scary how often I have seen corrosion to one degree or another on the stub spar of airplanes I've inspected.

But seriously, in my humble A&P opinion, as long as it is mounted "using good aviation practices" nothing else matters. If you figure out a better way and you have an A&P friend who says, "yeah, that looks good" then don't worry too much and just be happy with your plane.

I've forgotten how my '67 C was mounted. But kudos on using the word "kludgy" properly in a sentence.

Seth- Are you talking about your former M20F, or your Missile? If you are talking about your Missile with its full-feathering prop, you might be comparing apples to oranges. Our "normal" Mooneys use oil pressure to push the propeller blade to coarse pitch. Full-feathering props usually are the opposite, using oil pressure to go to fine pitch and springs and a nitrogen pre-charge to go to coarse pitch and feather.

I had a 67 M20C with electric gear. The switch is plumbed into the pitot pressure line that goes to the airspeed indicator. If you had a leak in the system, the airspeed indicator would also read low. Since yours doesn't, the internal parts of the switch are probably getting "gummy" so now it takes more force (air pressure) to activate the electrical switch. Have your mechanics check with the big shops like LASAR, Dugosh, Don Maxwell, SWTA, etc. to get a replacement. Not adjustable or repairable that I've ever seen. Normally it is located behind the left sidewall near the pilot's left calf.

Fantastic! I had always assumed (and been told) that when the key started falling out it was time for a new switch. Thanks for posting. Like Cliffy said, I guess I'm not too old to learn either!

Double check your parts manual for the old part number, but I'm 95% sure all the pre 201 Mooneys use the same switch. http://www.csobeech.com/files/Bendix_SB-583.pdf If you print out the above pdf for your mechanic when you give him the switch to install, he'll love you for it.

$458 from Aircraft Spruce. Yikes. But I guess ya do whatcha gotta do.

Per Bendix Service Bulletin SB 583, Ignition Switch part number 10-357210-1 is the replacement for the old 10-126680-2. The "337" is the maintenance form to document a major repair or alteration. Since there is a manufacturer's Service Bulletin, the new part number is a valid, legal replacement based on the original part number, so you would not need to document it on a 337- just a simple logbook entry noting the part number and referencing the SB.

The only doors I have been able to close in flight have been high-wing Cessnas. Never been successful on a Mooney or Bonanza. I used to demonstrate this with students who flew Bonanzas and Mooneys to show the importance of just flying the airplane and land safely. Anybody been able to close a Piper Cherokee door in flight?

I completely agree with Marauder. First flight of the day oil pressures are usually higher than later ones, since oil at 180 deg. Is much less viscous than at 120. And the old gauges are horribly inaccurate. My engine was overhauled by a very reputable shop that dyno- tested everything and set the oil pressure based on calibrated test equipment. In the airplane, oil pressure is in the yellow on takeoff and high-green arc in cruise, although it does drop some as oil temperature rises. Makes you wish you had Marauder's engine monitor, doesn't it? I sure do...

Bob, I tried to make the numbers work from the M20C POH, but couldn't get a clean result. i.e., 2400 rpm 22" mp = 46. POH says 74% power. 2300 rpm 21" mp = 44. POH says 66% power. So I just went back to my old standby of 17" = about 55%, 9.0 gph 20" = about 65%, 9.5 gph 23" = about 75%, 10.5 gph Oh, and I always use flaps for takeoffs.

First, fInd an RPM your engine likes, typically around 2400. Lowest vibration is best and will be easiest on your engine. 17" = about 55%, 9.0 gph 20" = about 65%, 9.5 gph 23" = about 75%, 10.5 gph Works for me, and besides I can't read the gauges any more accurately than that anyway. Fuel burn numbers are rough. Over about 1000 hours of flying M20Cs, I have burned 10 gph +/- 2%. Honest. Tach time X 10 = fuel burn at the gas pump. I don't even need a fuel flow gauge, I just have to write down tach time at fill up.