Andy95W

Boy, I hate to admit this, but I think this is dead on.

Nothing worth having is easy. Congratulations.

David- My 64 is like yours; my former 67 was different and had the 'overflow' hose to duct unused hot air overboard. I have no doubt that one of the salvage yards could sell you the new style, which would be no problem to install if you wanted it.

They taught it at West Point in the 80s. Glad to see they still do.

So why did I get Hillary Swank? Maybe I really am a girl...

But then you'd have to hang out with the other Cirrus owners, and who wants that?

You probably have dirty contacts in the switch in the downlock, or it is possibly mis-rigged. Try spraying some contact cleaner up there the next time you go flying and manipulate the switch with your finger. If that doesn't work, then your mechanic can adjust the switch next time the airplane is up on jacks, maybe by just bending the tab on the microswitch. Regardless, it shouldn't be that much work to just get the green light to come on.

Thanks. Ordering one now.

José- Very nice solution. What is the plastic piece that goes around the 560? Some sort of anti-glare device? I have a 500 that doesn't have that.

50 years old and cost me less than $40,000. Those Cirrus dorks and their plastic airplanes can bite me.

The October issue of The Aviation Consumer has a review of the Electroair system. They had almost nothing bad to say of the system, and owners they spoke with were very happy with it. They estimated it would pay for itself in about 700 hours. The only negative they mentioned is that it wasn't as effective at lower altitudes. At a Mooney's normal cruise altitude of 7-10k, and above, it is supposed to save about 1.5 gph. Imagine what it would do coupled with a PowerFlow exhaust. Now I just need to convince the wife of the benefit...

Jessica Tandy from "Driving Miss Daisy". What quiz were you guys on?

Thank you for the road. P.S. One of your roads near my house has a pothole that needs to be fixed.

People aren't perfect. And yet, I continue to have an undying, unshakeable faith in humanity in general and Americans in particular. And I refuse to live my life in fear.

Muffler anti-icing device for Saskatchewan M20C owners.

Dang, Cliffy. You make me glad I fly a Mooney.

I had a Bose that gave me a headache. I hated it more than any other headset I've ever owned or used.

Tough call. I had the cover with the switch on top and although I didn't hate it, I always saw it as a temporary solution. There aren't many options with the old yokes except the plate idea. Take a look at gsxrpilot 's gallery. He has a picture of his instrument panel and yokes with a plate that has his PTT and autopilot's switches for an idea of what it could look like. Hopefully others here can give you some more ideas and pictures of theirs.

Kitchener: Canada's tropical paradise.

Check out all the things that Don Maxwell told Jim in post #24. I think your problem is something more significant than just a gauge/indication problem, since your engine runs rough at 1.5 psi and turning on the electric boost pump smooths it out, and since it came on so suddenly. When you checked your lines by vacuum, did that include the gascolator and switching valve assembly? How long ago was the carburetor overhauled? It is rare, but I have seen engine driven fuel pumps go out for overhaul and come back bad. I would leave that for last, however, as less likely than other things.

+1 Love my C!

You have described the perfect mission profile for an M20C. 6'3" will fit very nicely in a C. The back seater behind you would be a little cramped, but for less than 1.5 hours. No problem. $45,000 with decent radios and maybe autopilot? M20C Basically, I agree with Hank with the exception of the "electric" C. I've owned both and far prefer the Johnson bar landing gear. IMO, you should be as realistic as possible about your expected passenger count and the frequency of that occurring. The F is a great airplane, but the back seat legroom is only a few inches more for less than an hour and a half flight (baggage space is the other few extra inches).

For light oxidation, I've had great results from Meguiars Ultimate Compound. Pretty much just wipe on and wipe off. Finished with Meguiars Cleaner Wax, also wipe on and wipe off. For heavy oxidation, elbow grease and patience is all that has ever worked for me.

Great information, thanks. I was already planning on doing mine next spring, so the timing of this thread was perfect. Ya gotta love Mooneyspace for stuff like this!

Jim, Which Heim bearings? At the nose wheel, rudder, or somewhere else? Thanks!