Andy95W

I put the LASAR belts in my 67 C, I put the Alpha inertial reels in my 64. The fixed harness worked good with electric gear, I'm glad I got the inertia reels with manual gear! And yes, it is a lot easier to reach the fuel selector. Installation was about the same, either way. If you get the Alphas, definitely consider the push button releases. I've heard of people unlatching their seat belts while swinging their gear.

Current ugliness: yikes! I re-did the interior in my previous 67 M20C and am about to do it in my current 64 M20C. The headliner and design is significantly different in each because of the fresh air ductwork from the air scoop on top of the fuselage. The earlier models use hoses, the later ones an actual duct, so you can't just buy the new plastic. You may be able to buy the whole thing from a wrecked C or E and install, but it may not be worth the cost. I think my solution will be to clean up my air hose situation and fabricate covers for them out of sheet metal or fiberglass, as well as a cover for my speaker. If you find a shop that is willing to install the ductwork and ceiling pieces from a later model, they may be willing to fabricate new ones for you from scratch. Might be worth getting prices for. Good luck, keep us posted. If you come up with a better solution, I may steal your idea! Attached is my ceiling without headliner. P.S. love your paint job. Mine is serial # 2673. Yours?

How is the performance with the Top Prop? Climb? Speed? Worth the extra money, in your opinion?

20 years ago, some IAs considered a new panel as a major alteration (requiring a 337). Nowadays, most don't. The shop may choose to complete a 337 just as a record of the alteration, but that doesn't mean it will need to be an FAA required Field Approval. The lighting could be another matter.

Thank God my analog tach isn't readable to 10 rpm increments!

+1 My experience exactly.

Spruce probably won't have it. It is such an old part, your best bet is to try Wentworth (salvage/"junk" yard). On the Cleveland website, you can download their parts and service manuals to get the part number. If you can't find it, call Wentworth anyway and just describe it to them. They'll probably know exactly what you're talking about.

Good to know, thanks. I was going off what they told me at Oshkosh. Nice if there is a work-around to fix it without the added expense.

+1

To do this, you have to buy the whole kit from Plane Power including the STC. Unfortunately, you don't get "credit" for already having the voltage regulator. Something like $720. Seems like a waste when overhauling the Interav alternator is only a few hundred. BTW, I love dealing with Plane Power, and if my plane still had an old generator, I wouldn't hesitate to buy the Plane Power setup.

I used to order from SkyGeek all the time, probably going back 10 years or so. Not sure what has happened with them lately, but this year I had a similar experience to those listed above. Not sure if I will ever order from them again.

I've seen it but it hasn't happened to me personally. I'd say it falls into the "uncommon" category, but of course very repairable. Good luck, hope it turns out to be a simple overhaul and reinstall.

+1

Ouch. Sorry to hear that. Mind sharing how much the new prop will be? Do you get to keep your blades? Or are you going to spring for the Top Prop scimitar?

Similar to a smoking rivet (or fretting corrosion). As the metals in the hinge wear, the metal erodes into aluminum dust which is then carried with the slipstream by the lubricating oil from the hinge. Over time, the wear isn't just caused by using the cowl flaps, but by the vibration that is now taking place between the worn parts. I'll bet it happens even more after flying through rain. Not a real cause for concern, but you should probably assume you'll need the hinge repaired/replaced in time. Possibly sometime in the next 5 years/thousand hours or so? In the meantime you'll just have to keep wiping up the residue.

Was that for us?

Is it MIL-SPEC 5606? If so, it's all basically the same and interchangeable as is.

One quart of 5606 should be enough, but it'll be close. As previously posted, suck out what's in the reservoir, push fresh fluid up from the caliper until it runs nice and red, repeat for the other caliper. Suck out the reservoir again, and push fluid from back to front and up using the rear most fitting on the aft flap cylinder (just above and forward of the flaps themselves). When that runs red and clean, suck it out and refill the reservoir. That'll change about 98% of the fluid. The last 2% will be in the forward flap cylinder (the pump) and it'll circulate through the system in about 2-3 flap cycles.

Great job, and kudos to you for accepting the challenge! You'll definitely be glad you did it all in your own airplane, there's no better way to learn your new bird.

+1 Unless you have better eyesight than me and can see it from where your current MP/tach live now. You could move your back DG to that location, particularly if it serves as a backup heading bug for your autopilot.

Me too. Great day for flying, though a little bumpy. Turns out, I didn't care about the bumps- when you're flying your favorite airplane, that you're lucky enough to own, nothing else really seems to matter.

He's talking ONLY about the Mooney Caravan mass arrival into Oshkosh. He NEVER said he landed at 90 as a normal procedure.

Oh, Paul, now you're just going to get everybody riled up again. This thread almost got as bad as the "Flaps on Takeoff" discussions. BTW, did you buy the Quiet Technologies Halo headset? I met you by the booth on Monday/Tuesday of Oshkosh. I absolutely LOVE my new Halo, quieter than my Lightspeed ANR.

The next time the cowling is off, check to see if #1 has the same type of CHT probe as the others. With some engine monitors (not sure if the 930 falls into this category) the original CHT probe had to stay in place and a gasket type probe had to be used for that cylinder. Those types of probes read cooler than the others, by about 50 degrees. If it's making good power and is smooth, I'm not sure I would sweat it short term, but it would be nice to figure out by your next annual.

Probably a typo. 74 MPH is 1.3 x Vso, so he probably meant 78 MPH.