Andy95W

Riddle: What makes a helicopter fly? Answer: They're so ugly the earth repels them. (Sorry Dave)

Army Aviation sounds scary. Glad I was Infantry. I was grateful for the pogey birds when I was in Ranger School, though.

So, the FAA in its infinite bureaucratic wisdom was going through its records and determined that Santa Claus hadn't had a checkride in a really, really long time. Realizing the safety of flight issues that surround an oversight such as this, they sent an inspector to the North Pole to give Santa his long overdue recurrent training and checkride. After a very thorough oral exam that seemed to Santa like it took forever, they walk out to Santa's sleigh. While the fed checked the logbooks for the date of the last Annual, Santa performed his preflight inspection. As they boarded the sleigh for the checkride, Santa noticed the FAA inspector was carrying a shotgun. He of course asked what the shotgun was for. The Fed replied, "Well, I'm not supposed to tell you this, but you're going to lose an engine on takeoff."

Or to make a good country run. We are stronger BECAUSE of our differences.

Bob- Herk said it was a 1963 that was actually a converted M20D.

Maybe we should all add a number to our avatar names to denote our political leanings. 1= Karl Marx man love 10= Atilla the Hun: what a great guy!

I've noticed the same thing, not just on Mooneyspace but in aviation in general. Perhaps it is the military influence, or perhaps the fact that aviation is very rules-based, and conservatives tend to be rule-followers in general. Or perhaps this is still sort of a rich man's game, and the wealthy tend to be conservative. A sociology student could probably do his dissertation on the subject and get his doctorate.

Holy crap, Batman, that IS weird. My #3 & 4 are actually my coolest CHTs on climbout (JPI 730). Yours seems to be fuel related as evidenced by the higher EGT on 4. By any chance does this happen around the time you bring the power back to 25"? If so, then the Economizer on your carb is doing its job well by giving you extra fuel at full throttle. Pulling the power back significantly decreases fuel flow. Try leaving the throttle all the way in to altitude. Our induction systems are quirky and inefficient, to say the least. Airflow patterns in the induction tubes change based on power settings, rpm, air density, etc. My gut feeling is that turning on your carb heat decreases air density, which then enrichens your mixture, probably accompanied by small, subtle changes in deck angle and slight rpm changes resulting from airspeed increase. All of these things then change the airflow from carburetor through your induction tubes to your cylinders. These small changes then balance out your cylinders' mixtures which results in more fuel going to #4 which then lowers EGT and shortly thereafter CHT. How to fix it? I don't know for sure. It probably wouldn't hurt to use flaps on takeoff- or stop using them if you are.

Good list. I've added some additional comments in CAPS above. Also, there is an AD on the aileron push rods in the belly. There are welds that can be done that is a terminating action, like the engine mount. If not done, try to knock off $500. Another place to look for corrosion is in the tail. Easy access through a panel in the side. Look especially at the extruded 'L' brackets that run down both sides.

Fixed cowl flaps started in 1968 according to my reference book "Those Remarkable Mooneys".

Same here. I got mine close,,checked it a few times, realized it was a little conservative, and figured that was good enough. I generally have 1/2 - 1 gallon more than what my stick says, depending on how level the airplane is. Little Timmy would say that a conservative stick is better than a bleeding-heart liberal one.

Or when you do touch and goes...

I believe the $800 fuel pump is for the 30psi fuel injected ones. The carbureted C model pump seems to be extremely reliable. Yet another reason to love the C model!

You'll love the C model. Straight forward to work on, inexpensive for a retract gear airplane, slightly more than caring for a C-172 . Easy to work on if you or your guy has even a little Mooney maintenance experience. AD's aren't bad. The prop AD is every 100 hours but a lot have been converted. Mine has not and I'm not worried. Very few fail the inspection. I love the hydraulic flaps, others don't. As trouble free as electric with all those microswitches, I live in Michigan and the cold weather will cause 1-2 fluid drips in the winter. I overhauled all my components 2 years ago when the drips got really bad. After 48 years, that's acceptable, in my opinion. You definitely need a guy who has Mooney experience to do your pre-buy, but I'm sure you knew that.

I did a search for the registration number on your post, N1126x, and it shows as a PA 28R- 200. You might be looking for the Piper Arrow site. If its a typo, please post your questions. We can probably all learn from them.

+1. I hate getting old.

Why do I keep getting spam for penis enlargement?

This is what I thought, too. So now we need to figure out why the bureaucrats feel such a need to drag their feet, hem and haw, and not allow some of the most basic, common sense ideas to move forward. And while we're at it, someone needs to explain why AD's have grown from 1-2 pages long in the 1960s/1970s to 6-7 pages long now. Same basic information, just less easy to understand because you have to first wade through the crap.

+1 for mineral spirits. Smells better to me, too.

If I had a preference, it would be for a simple, reliable system that incorporated a positive locking over-center mechanism that was so reliable and fool-proof that it was the only retractable gear ever certified in the modern era without an emergency extension system. Oh, wait, that's what I already own...

If you pump while cranking you could run the risk of going to 1500 + rpm when the engine is cold- not something I'd want to do. With that said, you may actually have to do that if the weather is cold enough outside or the engine isn't preheated.

If you spend $21 instead of 25 cents for a nut you may lose your status in the Cheap Ba$t@rd club...

If you have 52 gal. tanks, the following works: (cut and pasted from a previous posting) Fuel tank stick markings My archive has a post I salted away from Rob Hoyle, who graciously provided the measurements and markings from the dipstick he (and the prior owner) calibrated for his 1964 C model, and which seems to be VERY well calibrated to my '66 E model. I stick the tanks before filling to see what I expect, and compare the result to my fuel totalizer and the numbers off the gas pump- the stick is usually right on the money. Get a wooden paint stir stick from Home Depot or similar, then mark it with a finepoint sharpie. The fuel soaks into the wood just enough to make it easy to see the level when you pull it out, but is dry enough to be easy to measure the next tank by the time you've walked over and pulled the cap. Inches - Gallons 9 - 26 8 1/2 - 25 8 - 24 7 5/8 - 23 7 1/4 - 22 6 7/8 - 21 6 1/2 - 20 6 1/16 - 19 5 3/4 - 18 5 7/16 - 17 5 1/16 - 16 4 13/16 - 15 4 1/2 - 14 4 1/8 - 13 3 7/8 - 12 3 1/2 - 11 3 1/16 - 10 2 11/16 - 9 2 3/8 - 8 2 1/8 - 7 1 3/4 - 6

Use a 1/4-20 nylon locknut, probably obtained from your local hardware store. You will probably have to grind down one side. Use it to secure your new jack point.

My prop uses Aeroshell #5, as stated on a placard on the hub. Guess what I use on the landing gear? Yup, #5, and it works great. One tube does the whole airplane with a little left over. If my prop used #6, I'd put that on the gear.