Andy95W

Nels, thanks for the detailed post. I own a C model but as an A&P I work on a good number of fuel injected engines. I think you should be very confident in your work. As diligent as your work sounds, I will bet that you'll be giving your engine monitor a lot of attention your next few flights- which is probably also a good idea. And thanks also for reminding me how important it is to take my time and pay attention when I work, rather than just working fast. Good luck and thanks for sharing.

Isaac- thanks for the update. Great idea about the inspection camera. Good luck.

Wonder if you could slow down, drop the gear, and then speed back up in the descent (to 153 MPH or 132 kts.). Other airplanes have this as a difference between gear operating and gear extended speeds (Vlo vs. Vle).

Does anyone know the final outcome of this leak? Did it turn out to be the fuel pump gasket for sure? Just curious...

There may be an STC to allow removal of the doghouse, but will probably be part of a larger cowling swap. IMO, you should keep the doghouse and accept that it will require occasional (maybe every 3-5 years) sheet metal repairs. It is very capable of keeping your engine temps (CHT's) cool and is about as maintenance free as rubber baffling. Any decent mechanic can do these sheet metal repairs. Since none of it is cosmetic, it usually goes pretty quickly. It is also a good place to learn about sheet metal repairs yourself if you so desired. Good luck!

Sorry, Sean, I never denied the utility of an IFR approved GPS. And I completely agree that having a GNS-430 is much more beneficial than a new paint job from a safety perspective. My soapbox is from my position as a CFI. I have seen far too many pilots who think state-of-the-art avionics substitute for practice and recurrent training. And it's scary to watch a pilot spend more time with technology than flying the plane. From a purely safety perspective, a decent autopilot that will hold heading and altitude is my choice. P.S. You're a better man than me if you still practice NDB approaches. Kudos to you for doing partial panel work, though.

From a safety perspective, the best thing you can do is 1.) get your instrument rating in your airplane, 2.) fly a lot, and 3.) fly with an instructor regularly to maintain proficiency and continue learning. This is also cheaper than a 430. The best safety addition to an airplane is a well trained pilot. Airplanes don't crash because they don't have a GNS-430W.

Really sounds like you've done your homework. Good luck with the new paint!

One suggestion when you go for paint, if you don't have the bladder mod: have your paint shop sand/scuff the area around the fuel tanks and NOT use stripper in that area. I'm just talking about sanding the old paint, not sanding through to the aluminum. There may not be anything to it, but I've worked on a number of Mooneys that needed fuel tank work 1-3 years after getting painted. It has happened enough times that it seems like more than a coincidence, and the paint stripper will definitely dissolve fuel tank sealer.

One suggestion when you get it painted, if you don't have the bladder mod: have your paint shop sand/scuff the area around the fuel tanks and NOT use stripper in that area. There may not be anything to it, but I've worked on a number of Mooneys that needed fuel tank work 1-3 years after getting painted. It has happened enough times that it seems like more than a coincidence, and the paint stripper will definitely dissolve fuel tank sealer.

Per Bendix Service Bulletin SB 583, Ignition Switch part number 10-357210-1 is the replacement for the old 10-126680-2. BTW, Aircraft Spruce appears to sell them.

Water levels? Laser levels? Wow... I wish I hadn't reopened this topic. How about just ensure everything is rigged properly, and safely, and go fly?

I'm answering this a little late, but I'd say that if Maxwell did the shock biscuits, that is not the problem. My current M20C is just like you describe, the right wingtip is a bit lower to the ground than the left. I've worked on enough older Mooneys to say that while not common, it is not unique. Each airplane was built by hand, and I've always wondered if a combination of slight mis-alignments can all add up over the length of the gear mechanism. In fact, some airplanes appear to have main gear legs that are not the same angle to the ground, even though nothing is bent and everything is rigged perfectly by the book. I have not noticed this amount of difference in later (M20J and on) models. Perhaps fewer hours and wear and tear, or perhaps better factory jigs by that point. I'm impressed your wife could actually tell which wheel touched down first. Mine usually just chocks up all my landings to bad technique on my part.