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orionflt

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Everything posted by orionflt

  1. http://hartzellprop.com//wp-content/uploads/2012/12/ASB332-R01-W.pdf will give you all the part numbers that will work and some additional good to know info are you looking at a new or used spinner and dome?
  2. Older mooneys are also notorious for high CHT's during climb, the limit is 500f so if your staying under 450 your doing good, by closing up the opening on the front and sealing holes and gaps in the dog. House you can improve those temps. As for fuel flow, since some one wants to get into the nitty gritty of the numbers according to the lycoming engine charts for the 180 hp engine if you are getting all 180 hp on take off your ff should be 17.4 GPH, as you climb your hp will be reduced and your ff will drop accordingly. Since we are never in optimum conditions to generate 100% hp! we usually find ourselves generating an actual brake HP of between 85-90% on take off so if you take the formula 180hp X 90%= 162 X .58 BSFC =93.96 lbs / 6 = 15.66 pph. This formula with the correct BSFC number corrected for rpm will give you your expected FF for any phase of flight if you want to calculate it. Brian
  3. I just redid my doghouse, I am lucky that a friend of mine owns a machine shop and the welder that works for him is a genius with metal. He fixed holes, cracks and added metal that had worn away, then we powder coated everything. It was like having a new doghouse with out having to refit everything. I do not envy tom doing the complete replacement.
  4. Maybe you can get Amazon to deliver people not just packages. http://www.idigitaltimes.com/articles/21323/20131230/amazon-prime-air-drone-test-sites-faa.htm
  5. There is not currently an STC for the C to get the IO 390, but as you said there are C to E conversions so it can be done, just a matter of doing the proper paperwork.
  6. I have dealt with several MT props on different airframes and my personal opinion is to stay away from them. They are composite covered wood props that seem to be noisier and not as durable. This obviously is my opinion and there are others out there who probably love them, but after scrapping one completely and seeing another require $7K to have a blade repaired I am not a fan.
  7. Depending on the antenna you may save a lot of trouble just replacing it. Comm antennas start out around $130 fot the basic stick type, if you have a blade type then it gets more expensive.
  8. I had one I the twin I owned and it was a noticeable difference between inflated and not, but I do not know how a properly fit fixed seal would have compared. I have debated the inflatable seal in the mooney, just haven't been able to justify the cost because my fixed seal did pretty well. Now that I removed the old seal I am once again debating on what seals to use.
  9. You can use a Dow silicone or you can order some pro seal panel sealant (around $50 a tube) both will seal but the silicone is a lot cheaper. And I agree about using the painters tape to get a nice look, remember to remove it while the sealant is wet otherwise you will have a hard time getting it off.
  10. When I did mine there must have been 50 yrs of adhesive built up on it, I tried thinners, goof off and scrapers, they all sorta worked but I couldn't get right down to the bare metal. I finally took the drastic step and got out the rotary wheel with a 3m disk, this was taking it off but I would eat up a disk every few inches....I got desperate and broke out the wire wheel (brass not steel) with in 1/2 hour I had the door totally cleaned up and looking almost new, ready for the new seal. I tell you this but want to caution you if you do use a brass wire wheel be very careful, you can destroy your door very quickly if you are not careful not only will it take off the adhesive, but it will take off metal also. I used it as a last resort when my other options failed, I also have experience using highly abrasive methods to remove material from aluminum. Good luck with your project, and remember to wear the proper safety equipment for the job.
  11. Mark, I basically have the same set up as you, you are a little on the high side during the climb but as your mech says nothing to worry about. I do recommended that you take the time to tighten up the gaps in your baffling, I silicones all the gaps and holes I could find on mine and now my CHT's during climb are just under 400 and right around 300 in cruise with an oat in the 40's. Brian
  12. I just checked my numbers and I'm seeing between 16 & 17 on take off roll, and by the time I'm approximately 1000ft AGL I'm down to around 14 GPH. I think your FF is correct, you just didn't note the max numbers because they were during the critical portion of the flight where you were flying the aircraft (as you should have been) not looking at gauges. Brian
  13. If your ff was 14.6 it is onthe lowsidefor takeoff, but as for. The other. Temps onthe first flight they were not far off for the initial breakin. My temps were all over the place for the first hour and 1/2, then it was like some one turned on a switch and everything settled into normal parameters. My next couple of flights I found minor tweaks that were needed, but all my temps looked good during climb and cruise. Fix the squawks that you positively identified and if your baseing your FF off of what you saw, not what was logged then tak it flying again. If you can take some one with you to monitor the engine or maybe set up a camera that you can review after the flight. I know I was too busy to note all the numbers on take off and climb but I could down load the flight data and review it when I landed, that was extremely helpful for me to determine that some of what I was seeing was just the engine getting everything seated properly. Brian
  14. If you are going to go that route, factor it all into the purchase price, there is something to be said for having a low time engine but you still have the initial break in period to deal with (IE. if its going to break it will probably be with in the first 100 hour) of course on the other hand, with a high time engine it's just a matter of when will you have an issue good luck with your purchase , hope we helped. Brian
  15. PM me, I'll send you some of the info you are looking for. as for the upgrade, there is an STC out there but you would be better off just finding an E model instead of trying to upgrade the C. for the fuel tank issues, around 8k for a complete reseal depending on where you go and between 8-10 K for the O&N bladder. you can also opt for just a repair , that will obviously be cheaper but there are no guarantees that it wont start leaking else where. it's great to have you on board and nice to see an older mooney finding a good home Brian 61 M20C
  16. all good advice above, don't be in a rush to get rid of your current engine if it isn't having any issues. If you are not doing oil analysis, I may start just to see what my contaminant levels are and if they start to change significantly. as for compressions, with the continental engines you can have compressions below 60 and still be good according to continental inspection procedures. if and when you do replace the engine i would look at the factory reman vs new IMHO. Brian
  17. Contact me about the manifold pressure gauge, I replaced mine with the MVP 50 so I have the one I removed sitting on a shelf. As for your cylinder temps, they are on the high side during the climb, especially for the fuel flow, but that is also the first flight after the overhaul so I wouldn't get too worked up over any of the numbers unless they continue. On my first flight my hottest cylinder hit 430, and I had Egt spreads of 100 degrees, and my cylinder temps are below 400 during the climb with flaps closed 46 deg Oat. Brian
  18. Hartzell has a SB out on mooney props ( http://hartzellprop.com//wp-content/uploads/2012/12/ASB332-R01-W.pdf ) it seems to be a common problem and the replacement spinner runs $1500.00. I had spinner damage from an impact to the spinner from a hanger door and looked at the new spinner, my old spinner from 1961 seemed tohave held up pretty well, no cracks or repairs so I opted to replace it with a used one of the same style and vintage. I only have a few hours on the replacement, but I have added a careful inspection to my preflight check list. If it does crack I will bite the bullet and go with the new replacement, I defiantly am not a fan of repairs on something that affects the balance of the prop and takes so much stress.
  19. Check your master solenoid, could have burnt contacts causing a bad connection
  20. Hey tony, Welcome to mooneyspace. Where are you from, and if you don't mind my asking, what's the N and serial number of you mooney. I'm a retired Navy P-3 Flight Engineer, and I'm flying a 61 M20C also, only a few came off the line in 61. Brian
  21. I have the MVP-50 and I love it. I do not have any issues reading the info being displayed, the display is larger but it is also displaying more info then the 30 meaning that the displayed info is roughly the same size on both. I agree that it is more expensive, but I love the idea of eliminating other gauges, or at least having a backup to compare readings.
  22. Check out the CGR-30 from electronics International, you may like that better then the GEM
  23. Just out of curiosity, was the engine torn down, or did you just do the crank run out and dow pin replacement?
  24. Clean the injector and replace the orings
  25. Is it a vacuum driven step, or a manual with cables running up to the cockpit?
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