orionflt

congrats on the new plane, as for gear up incidents I thankfully avoided that situation a few months ago. I was flying my friends M20F (because my C is still recovering from hurricane Sandy), I picked up a friend from a local airport and we were headed back home. I have plenty of time in the plane and am very comfortable flying it, during take off we hit a little turbulence and I held off retracting the gear. we were only climbing to 2.5K for the short flight home and once a good climb was established we started sight seeing. (note we never finished the climb check list). once we got into the pattern at our home airport I went thru the landing checklist when I put the gear (down) I noted the Johnson bar seemed to actuate a little harder then normal. the pattern was normal and the approach was perfect, just before touchdown a friend on the ground called for us to go around. thankfully we listened and still had a few feet before we touched down. the landing gear warning system was inop and I never took a good look at the indicator, all the little things in the chain of events that could have prevented the incident at an earlier time. thankfully the call from the ground did. one of my biggest recommendations for mooney owners is to ensure your landing gear warning system is working properly. I know many have said that they never heard it going off, but when ever mine goes off in my "C" I hear it clearly. I have also moved the landing gear indicating lights on my "C" from the left hand side of the panel to directly in from of me and with the MVP-50 that is being installed I have added the sensors to utilize the landing gear warning function.

none at all, I took a lok at one of the wiring schematics for the SOS system and it wires the power to the SOS sytem to the start lug so that you are only actuating the system when you are cranking the eng... now I have to go back and take a closer look at mine, I tink it is wired the same way. I did see a write up talking about a maintenance switch wired under the instrument panel to disable the starter so you can test the SOS system and bypass the starter for hand propping, but that was on B and early C models.

Thats a great breakdown of the pump, thanks I'll add that to my libary. Mike, you shoud be able to make the adjustment to the restrictor valve yourself, should only take a few minutes and a coupe of cycles till you get it reset.

You are correct, you should be able to hear the vibrator buzzing when you turn the key past both but before you push it in. If it is actuating when you push in it is probably mis wired to the starter lug. Another possibility would be the SOS system has failed and your starting when the key is released to the both position (ie: engine doesn't start while cranking but fires when the key is released) Brian

Check to see if it is happening on both tanks or just one, also check the tank vents. Then try it with the electric fuel pump running and see if it stumbles. That being said if none of that makes a difference try it on one mag at a time and see what you get, if one of the mags are grounding during the turn this will let you know what one it is. The problem is either going to be in the mag or the fuel system, once you isolate which one the trouble shooting will become easier. Brian

It doesn't take1000 rpms to splash oil on the cam, your normal engine idle is between 600-650, 1000 rpm is the most efficient for engine warm up not lubrication. As for your last comment about not moving the prop unless your going to start the engine, do you pull the prop thru prior to starts to ensure you do not have a dead cylinder? That is a recommended preflight procedure and you are defiantly not splashing oil on the cam when you do that. There is always going to be some wear on moving parts the parts were designed to take this, the worst thing we can do to our engines is to let them sit. Ideally flying the plane and bringing the engine up to temp is the best solution but the key to protecting the engine is to keep those parts coated with oil.

Sounds like the spark advance is not working, the wire to the spark advance may not be terminated correctly. When your holding in, normal spark is disabled, so if it starts as soon as you release the the engine is startling on normal spark vs the advanced spark for easier starts. (Advanced spark fires sooner, and uses a coil to produce a better spark for starting) Brian

You are correct that the engine uses splash oil to lubricate parts of the engine and 1000 rpms is recommended for warm up (most efficient engine speed to get the oil up to temp with the least amount of wear on the engine), but believe me, hand propping the engine with plugs removed will splash enough oil thru out the engine to coat the cam tappets and piston pins. That is unless your trying to do it in the middle of winter when the oil is so thick it won't flow (hence preheating). Pre oiling (that is what you are doing) is used prior to starting an engine when it is put into service and is recommended to help reduce wear during normal starts. Look up pre oilers, there are a number of companies selling electric oil pumps just for that purpose. Oh by the way, cam guard is great because it helps keep the engine parts coated when youdo not fly regularly, but leave the engine sit too long with out preserving it even with cam guard and you will have the same problems. Brian A&P IA

Jamie, My Mooney has been sitting since Sandy came thru and caused damage to my propeller requiring a prop strike inspection. After pulling everything apart I started completeing some major upgrades keeping my plane grounded even after the engine and propeller were reinstalled. instead of preserving the engine (you know, I'll have this back togather in a week or so) I just removed the top plugs and spun the prop by hand for a few minutes once a week, believe it or not you can get 20-30 psi of oil pressure just doing that. (I actually got the oil pressure up to 50 psi just playing around) this will circulate the oil with out the heat that cuases miosture to form in the engine on short runs. Brian

Scott, I just replaced my complete cluster with the EI MVP-50P, When I did I also upgraded my fuel probes to the magnetic pick up style tat sem to have less issues then the old resistant type. that being the case I have 2 sets (my originals and spares for troubleshooting my constant fuel quanity indication issues) both sets seem to work properly, the guages were the major issue. they are out of a 62 M20C. if you are interested in them contact me @ mooney78959@gmail.com Brian