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@ETXflyboy_f14 Is that an Aera 660 or 760 on a ball mount to the left of the ELT switch? I've been thinking about mounting my 760 (currently a backup) and your location caught my eye.

Also, make sure steering horn is packed with grease, that helps a lot.

How does this work for a power off 180? Ideally if you’re doing pattern work all landings should be a precision power off 180 I’d also say if a downwind of 100-150kts gets the plane away from the pilot, the pilot needs more instruction before they fly that plane “Train as you fight, fight as you train”

2. and 3. can be combined to "reduce throttle to 12 Inches." This will keep the plane from speeding up Then. put gear down at threshold on downwind followed by flaps. This keeps everything the same as normal coming back to the airport flying. Training and flying should develop flows and muscle memory.

Raise the nose and shake the nose gear.

@Schllc I saw your airplane when I was there on Wednesday. Your interior looks great and will be awesome when it is finished. Hector at Aero Comfort did another outstanding job. It's going to look as good as any Ultra that left the factory!

After owning two NXI equipped Mooney’s. I can tell you that his is the only feature I really missed. the keyboard is useless with the flight stream and an impediment in the cockpit. the only other items I enjoyed but don’t really miss is the visual approach which is easy to mimic with approach fixes and the identifier in the frequencies. there are many other differences but most of them are nuanced, and with the flight stream 210, I would be hard pressed to pay for an upgrade to the nxi. It would probably have to be imminent ending of support, which isn’t likely to occur in my flying days.

Mostly watching flight training videos

Here in Europe we don’t get any wx or traffic data in flight by default. For traffic you must have expensive equipment and even then it’s not 100% coverage. For weather you pretty much have to have onboard radar. So for me the primary reason is to get some sort of traffic via the app SafeSky and to have internet weather. Comms via internet is an added bonus.

You specified your procedure is for when you do “pattern work with full stop landings”. Maybe I misunderstood what that means. To me “pattern work” means you are performing t&gs and staying in the traffic pattern. Since you classified your procedure for just this situation, I was wondering what your procedure is during non pattern work approach and full stop landing. Are you then saying it’s the same? And please remember my original question which is me wondering why did you adopt this procedure of extending landing gear first before reducing power. Since you gave me the answer “to prevent the plane getting ahead of the pilot in pattern work” I now wonder if you do the same when not doing pattern work and what your reason is then? I hope I’m making sense. Essentially, why do you drop gear first in level flight still instead of reducing power to slow down?

what are you guys doing with starlinks in your mooney?

My mini and ipad fit thru window, really only fly with the mini however, find the ipad just cumbersome

KCPS is good but KSUS is pretty much the same distance/time to most of downtown, depending on where you're going, and factoring in traffic. Million air at KSUS is my usual pick. I'm usually coming from the west/southwest, so that's a factor. If you're coming from the east or southeast, KCPS might be overall quicker and easier.

I’m about as far from an expert as I can be I was just reading the output from the power adapter as 30v at 60w and the max input on the unit as 60w. I took that to mean there’s no need to worry about having a power source that produces 100w continuous output.

Don’t confuse input and output power. While the load may be 60W max, it appears the input power to the converter could be 100W , or more (100-24V at 1.6A)

Unless you’re set on KCPS, you may want to call and shop around for courtesy car, fuel prices, landing fees, tie down fees, etc. Some FBO’s will waive tie down fees if you by self-service or full service fuel from them. I’ve used KCPS, KSUS, 1H0, KSET, and KBLV. I found 1H0 unfriendly, but only landed there once, so maybe caught them on a bad day. KSET had heavy student traffic. KBLV had limited hours. Loved KSUS because of it’s proximity to shopping for my wife and KCPS because of the view of the arch.

The previous owner of my ‘63 C told me of this… the one time he had carb ice in his 35 years of ownership, he saw the manifold pressure was dropping. I added a carb air temp probe when I installed the FP-5 and have a warning light set at 35 degrees.

In case it’s interesting for anyone … I keep reading online that the Mini requires a max of 100w, but the unit I got seems to confirm that 60w is all that’s ever required. Here’s a photo of the power adapter that came with my Mini, and a photo of the back of the Mini itself. Both specify 60w.

I flew my old M20F like that for 100 hours or so. I ferried a Mooney about 2 years ago that did it. It took it 40 years or so to get the way it is, it will stay about the same way for a long time. You should plan on fixing it, but in the mean time, if you kick the rudder pretty hard, it will usually stop the shimmy.

Old school trick- keep an eye on your manifold pressure gage in cruise. If it starts to go down (and you haven't moved it) the carb throat is being closed by ice.

There was a Reddit thread about this a while back https://old.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/11lbek1/is_the_starlink_dish_safe_to_be_used_near_your/

Tighten the big long pivot bolt on the nose gear to 300 in pounds and use a new cotter pin Fill it with grease through the zerk fitting This is a 100 hr item missed by most everyone. If there is left/right loose play in the nose wheel look at the linkage above it for wear. Find the Mooney S/B on the nose wheel caster position and measure it with a plumb bob as directed. THEN decide if you need the spacer washer.

What is hard to see in Tyler’s picture is that the stab rigging was off by over 2 degrees. He never had full up trim which was actually closer to TO trim. Needless to say takeoff trim was very heavy and it was very difficult to get enough trim to land consistently. The elevator position varies depending on the vintage of Mooney. Older ones have the bungee springs that yield a more upward position in takeoff. This J has a down bias spring that provides constant down pressure. Full rigging requires removal of that spring and then reinstallation. Later models removed the bungee and have other mechanisms including bob weights. It is super critical that shops understand the mechanism. Just putting index marks on the torque tube when taking it apart to do work on the trim servo or tail is not good enough. The trim stops and trim indication are in front of the plane. As shown in this thread, it can be miss indexed to a hazardous level. Any post flights should be treated with caution. I wish the FAA still had the old service difficulty system that most mechanics read. They still have it, but it is not highly visible like it used to be. Thanks again for the kind words Tyler, but it is your integration into the entire ownership process that resulted in finding this. I feel the previous owner suffered through a poorly rigged airplane.

As I mentioned here before- we could probably find at least 25% of the flying Mooneys out of rig either in flight controls or landing gear.

Looking good!