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That is what we tell ourselves, when we really just like the way they look.

Don't they help keep even more stuff out of the wheel bearing than the felts do?

I used ~1250 in my F for target egt. Worked very well. When I arrived at cruise, that egt corresponded to ~150-200 ROP. So probably richer than the "old school" way which is what you'd want for climb, but it's too rich for cruise. Once you know that target egt, it makes leaning in the climb simple all the way up. Just be advised that a little change in mixture can make a big change in your chts on the way up. So if you find 1250 works well, but you try 1300 on a warm day, you might see some hot CHTs.

My C generally peaks ~1450°F, depending on conditions.

Yes, most airplanes with constant speed props should make redline in a static runup. An airplane with a fixed-pitch prop will usually have a minimum static rpm specified somewhere in the airplane documentation (POH, AFM, SMM, whatever).

First, we have to know if your current visors are attached at the upper outside of the windscreen. If yes, mine will work, if not, they won't. Where are you located? I am trying to develop a set for the earlier models, but I need someone in the Dallas area that would be willing to drop their headliner (perhaps several times) to give me access to the frame so that I can figure out how to do them.

Hi Don, I would be interested in a pair of your sun visors for a 67 F model, if you are still making these. Thanks!

There's a mil spec for everything. C Rarions (predecessor to MREs) used to include cigarettes and matches with the (alleged) food. And fire tablets.

Don't think I've ever seen anything in the 1500's. I believe peak is in the mid 1400's. I'll record more data when I get a chance. Gonna put a sticker on the panel with the EGT at sea level takeoff power for future reference.

The fuel dispenser here at the home drome has a substantial filter in line with the hose. I can’t imagine anything getting past the filter that would be caught by the mesh.

People used to use chamois cloth (sheep skin leather) for that. I think it slows the rate that you can refuel, but when refueling at a remote location from barrels of unknown pedigree it used to be pretty common.

I went to a MT propellor maintenance seminar once. They were talking about the holes where the mill spec lag bolts screw into the blades. I asked if they wouldn’t torque up, if they would put a match stick in the hole. They said they have mil spec match sticks to put into the holes.

Hi all, Does anyone use a portable screening mesh while fueling their tanks? Fine, washable mesh that will withstand the pressure from the nozzle. If none is available on the market, I'll build my own... Thanks

I have this exact problem. My solution was to toss the tiny washer that went with the screw. Apparently there were enough threads at the bottom to make the screw work. I still have the original screw holes so when the time comes this solution doesn’t work I will drill out for the next size and tap it. I may do all three because having one different screw is annoying. One last suggestion. Sometimes if you insert a thin piece of plastic or paper in the hole it will tighten things up enough to hold firmly. I would consider this a temp fix because of the annoyance factor. But if you want to fly before you perform the real fix this usually works.

Oil report came back. Looking way better! Chrome a little higher but I’m told by Blackstone that is normal for Millennium cylinders. Metal is way, way down and should get better in succeeding reports as I put more hours on engine. At the time of oil change. ~30 tach hours on the engine. Running great… -Don

Noted, thanks for the additional info. This is not what I recall from the few times I've actually tried a full-power runup in a constant-speed-prop airplane, but entirely possible I'm mis-remembering.

Partner and I are looking for a Rocket or Ovation (we wanted a long body but can settle for a mid-body as well). Ideally Garmin equipped. No vacuum. We don't need TKS or A/C. DM me with details.

Peak indicated EGT in our M20F with an EI UBG-16 monitor and P-110F probes located about 8" down form the header runs between 1550 and 1575. I've been in other airplanes where peak EGT is well over 1500, I don't think it's particularly unusual. But lots of other airplanes I've flown peak in the 1400s. My experience is there's a lot of variation, but I don't have thousands of data points, only dozens.

Governor should be against the low pitch stop with the prop control full forward. Most aircraft will not make red line while stationary.

Desulfating will always blink no matter which battery or Batteryminder you use. Club plane has a 12v system with Gill, my bravo has one Gill and one Concorde with separate chargers. They all blink.

I'm not sure how this is supposed to work in an airplane with a constant speed propeller, which all Mooney M20 models have. Wide open throttle will generate enough power for the prop governor to come online and hold RPM constant at 2700 (or whatever is the max RPM for your prop/governor combination), at essentially any density altitude on earth. If you're going to lean for best takeoff power using RPM as the primary indicator of power, you either have to have a fixed pitch prop, or you have to limit the amount of power you apply to stay outside the range at which the governor comes online.

It would be interesting to see where it peaks. To my way of thinking, full rich mixture at max power should be ~250° ROP. It seems unlikely to me that your peak EGT is in the high 1500s but I could be wrong. You’re not going to hurt anything leaning to peak at low altitude for a brief period. It would be good to know how rich your engine is at high power with the mixture firewalled. I’m not suggesting that you need to change anything if it turns out that it’s only 200° ROP, only that it’s good to know what it’s doing so you can act accordingly.

BTW does anyone who uses these with Concorde batteries know if the blue "desulfating" light always blinks? The instructions say to leave it on each battery alone for a few days initially to get good reconditioning before switching to the parallel maintenance setup.

Recent install, following an earlier thread and inspired by @Rick Junkin 's and @donkaye, MCFI's installs.