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Because Piper has those huge inner gear doors on a lot of their models. They create large amounts of drag when they open to let the wheels up into the well. I remember decades ago when I flew Navajos, if it was an engine failure on takeoff, it was actually advantageous to leave the gear down, because retracting it opened up the doors to the point that you couldn’t maintain altitude at blue line.

I basically did that coming from further north. IFR. They gave me a revised routing of BROUN - MONIA - ??? - GNV. Unfortunately my knee board is in the plane

I am sure there are variations, like the choice of power for speed? or pitch for speed? * "Point and power" when it's blasting * "Pitch for speed" when it's sluggish Some pilots do both without thinking For flaps & gear, in Mooney, I teach people to go slowly on power, sensible pitch, gear, flap: it works well this way. In school, we get students to raise drag flap, then gear in Arrow: Flaps retract to 25º, positive rate, Gear Up What I find interesting, the Arrow gear is way more draggy than Mooney gear... https://www.faa.gov/sites/faa.gov/files/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aviation/airplane_handbook/10_afh_ch9.pdf

This!! No need for hardware solutions for software problems...

BTW, not all Mooneys use the fuel pump on take off. It is not in the checklist for my M20K. In fact there is a Takeoff checklist to confirm that the boost pump is Off/

The tolerance on this is not that important, as long as it fits and is strong enough. I'd drill the other side for a pin. Maybe I'm overly protective of the gear but I don't like vehicles as a tug. I'd think I'd want to front mount on the golf cart so that I can easily keep my eyes on things and moved slowly.

OK, you are right, they were from @flyingchump I found the back messages here on MS. I must have bought something for a similar price from you about the same time. Whoever made them, they are GREAT

I am sorry you have to go through this on a low-time engine, but I have to admit to a little relief to know that the engine was not installed by the factory.

Not every one teaches that. The USAF taught, at least when I went through training, power, gear flaps. And the T-38 was not exactly limited in power. So the Power was only about 50% throttle. And we did full flap touch and goes all the time.

Be there around lunch tomorrow. Hope to depart KFAY around 0800, and dog leg by Savannah to avoid the long overwater stretch.

Well, now. If only I'd known before the plant closed! Have to see what I can find, and how good it turns on a wood lathe.

My road to getting my -SB engine to run smoothly at LOP continues... I now got my Maggie Harness (Thanks Paul for assisting) and also my Gami Injectors arrived. I've suspected lots of things, but made the decision to change ignition harness to be 100% that there wasn't any issues. They looked fine when we looked at it, but since left mag even when I changed it and also did an 500h inspection didn't solve rough LOP I decided to buy one anyway. What can you say, I'm glad that I did order a new harness, since there was damage to the old one on several wires. One of the wires were actually really bad, and was in direct contact with metal. This was 5B on Left Mag... rest of chaffed wires were on bottom plugs too. This was only on ~550h since new! All damage was in clamp. (You needed to remove wire to see it) Wire with most chaffing was forced against an rivet due to wrong installation and wrong clamp. Also impossible to see without removing wire. Even if this don't solve my LOP issues, I now have a fresh and correctly installed ignition harness. Started to install new harness yesterday. Gami injectors will be next up. Cylinder 5B. Severe chaffing, through outer rubber and braid shield... Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. Some more chaffing, due to JPI probe wire in same clamp. When the installed new engine, they used old/wrong clamps that put lots of force on wires. On several wires when clamped together. After some hours of careful wire planning it slowly looks much better. Now all Ignition wires will be in own clamps, and all JPI probe wires in separate clamps.

Will check it next time.

Somewhere over South Carolina. Despite the appearance, this is not a lake, just summer haze and low clouds.

Delrin…

Those are simple to make. What material???

It's a pretty easy mod to add an interior release to the hatch, which I highly recommend for the obvious reasons. It was the first thing I did to my airplane after getting my Airframe mechanic rating. Sometimes the things, they just stack up.

I thought so at first until I saw the note of stopping FAA services. I

I think the CPA course is well run and you can also sign up for a flight with an instructor as well. I picked up instructor at Longmont, flew to Kremmeling (20V), overflew Eagle (EGE) over to Aspen (ASE), then to Glenwood Springs (GWS) which is shorter runway with terrain around and fun, the over to Leadville (LXV)...unfortunately the FBO was closed and I had to get a "certificate" the second time I landed there. Then back over to LMO to drop off instructor. If you're coming in from out of town they reserve all the next day flights for the traveling students. Otherwise you can take the course and then schedule a mountain flight with an instructor at your leisure. I'm a CPA member but not affiliated with the course, and definitely thought it was worth my time and training dollars!

Find a piece of 1" ID pipe and measure it. Cast iron or steel should work.

Lord also did not recommend silicon oil. They did recommend P-80 emulsion or castor oil.

This is what we used to create my OPP part by @flyingchump. See PDF… Mooney seat roller v1.pdf I’m certain he sold his 66 E and probably is no longer on the forum… -Don

Wrote to tech support at Lord, they have never heard of the shock disks squeaking. Therefore, they didn't have a lubrication to recommend. I asked what was the elastomer, and he responded with "a natural rubber blend". That rules out using engine oil.

I’m tinkering with a project to build a tow bar so I can hook my Mooney up to a golf cart. Took a quick measurement of my manual tow bar and the round piece that slides through the nose gear measures about 1-1/16" OD. Problem is, I called around the local steel yards and that size doesn’t seem to be very common. Has anyone here gone down this road before? What size stock or tubing did you use that worked out? Always appreciate learning from others who’ve already solved it!

I just landed