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Actually no, that's not correct. There are a few higher end ones (Anker I believe and some others) that will let you set the charge limit. So maybe you've always had one of those brands that do limit the charging. But the VAST majority of Power Banks or whatever you want to call them will charge to 100%. No marketing dept is going to let a product go out to get feed back that "it all ways runs down" or "it barely has enough power to recharge my iPad" etc., etc. And then if you have a cheaper made pack, you can be in for a surprise if it's been dropped a few times. Even your phone or tablet will charge to 100% unless it is a newer version and it is set to stop at 80%. Most??? Many??? have them set to go to 100% so the users don't have to plug in as much. My little Nimble pack got good reviews, but there is no way to limit the charging. But it does have 4 lights to tell how much charge it has, so I charge to 3 solid and maybe a little more to get a good charge, but not push it to the limit to repeatedly heat up the battery in that last 20% charge. Besides dropping it , that's one of the best things you can do to prevent a shorter life span. And to be honest, I've never used it. I take it with me are SAR missions in case we're out for an extended time and my phone with our SARTopo starts to run down.

Excellent broker in the midwest.

Never found what exactly was causing the system to go haywire. Jake at Bevan Aviation tested my AP computer and did not find anything wrong. My AI gyro was in need of overhaul so I had that done and I changed the A/P disconnect switch. System works fine now.

Makes me miss the good 'ol MAPA Log days and @jgarrison Jimmy's monthly Mooney market reports . . . With that said, I also look profusely at the market and take the Romanian and French Olympic diving judge approach, as in "throw out the highest and lowest" and then you arrive somewhere close to what each model should be trading at. But doing so doesn't mean I don't laugh every time I see a '64 M20C listed at $175K . . .

I don't see the second engine in the photo . . . .

Quick search of AviationDB shows 2 owners since 1999 (as far back as it goes). The current owner in MN bought it in 2008 and is currently 85 yrs. old. So, granted with the passing of the years it may been flown less and less (I can understand that myself....) but still may be a great plane at the price.

@Glen Davis If you are going to work on the brakes yourself here are a couple good videos.....not Mooney but still good

You learn something every day. I didn't know that they sold caps for the brake bleed nipple. In over 25 years I have never had them on my Mooney and I don't recall ever seeing them on any plane. I think they just crack and fall off or if you are taxiing through grass maybe they get knocked off.

When you look at the Mooney Illustrated Parts Catalog (IPC) for the M20J you will see that Mooney specified a Cessna part number for the bleeder valve - 37-206 Here is the cross-reference Brake Bleed Valves For Cleveland & Mccauley Wheels | Aircraft Spruce ®

Those don’t look like aircraft parts.

I'm having flash backs of "Children of the Magenta Line" video :-) Sure we have advanced in technology but to what end? But, now we have antennas up in the windshield blocking the view outside? We can facetime a phone call and divert our attention from looking out the window to playing games and reading books while flying? Are we to believe we ae riding in a Waymo airplane now? :-) I guess I don't understand how I have done 60+ years of flying in all kinds of weather without internet connections. Ya'll be careful out there

http://www.speedbleeder.com/ may be able to find a match here — and they are very good! -Don

@IvanP were you able to get this fixed? I'm having the same issue with a KFC-150. tests pass after startup but autopilot disconnects after some time and then won't engage in heading/nav modes after that. Flight director and altitude modes will work. At first this was infrequent but seems to be happening more.

CL-600? Wow, we are fast aren't we?

Mine had 400 hours on a factory new engine vs. 1400. My interior is not ratty. This is NOT a True J cowl, but an ARI so oil cooler and air filter not relocated. Mine has a true eight pack and Aspen. BUT I still would of loved that buy in price.

My only really memorable bounced landing came with ~700 hours in my F. It was after a 4 hour xc, but otherwise nothing special about the conditions. Stuff happens even with good experience and standard conditions.

Here is Cleveland brake assembly 30-56A which is what is on your plane. You can clearly see the bleeder valve.

As stated by others there is no O-ring on the bleeder. And it is not usually the leak. You can put a wrench on it and check to see if it is slightly above snug. While you are down there check to see if your brake pads need replacing. As the piston gets to the end of travel as the brake wear they get where the piston will leak around the o-ring in the caliper. This is most likely the cause of the leak. Refill your brake reservoir. The parts and service manual are in the download section

That’s called a bleeder. It’s a Cleveland brake part. Usually when they leak, the needle valve isn’t sealing and you need to replace it. If by chance it is leaking from the threads, you could remove the seat (large nut) and apply some pipe thread sealant to the threads and re-install it. Keep the brake fluid reservoir full until you get it fixed so you don’t get air in the lines. Bleeders are available from Aircraft Spruce.

I like to say. flying is easy. Landing is hard. Landing is where you sometimes have to pull every pilot trick out of the bag of tricks. Other times it just clicks, but no one is around to see that one.

the cleaveland brakes assembly catalog is readily available online

I had a PIO coming home at night on Thanksgiving weekend, in my first year of ownership (maybe 125 hours total time). After Bounce #2, full throttle and pray to clear the trees, followed by my mantra if "make a normal landing, figure it out later" over and over. Second attempt went like it was supposed to. I figured out over the next couple of days that I was so glad to be home after 3 hours' flight and a nice sunset, being vectored over the field because of the football game TFR, etc., that i just relaxed and quit flying in the flare. Stuff happens . . . even stoopid stuff.

You might start by looking at the Illustrated Parts Manual. You will see diagrams in 32-10-01 for the landing gear and brake assembly (page 422 in the download - for the later models like yours) There are no o-rings on the nipples of any brake caliper - aircraft or auto. It is a metal to metal seal. Now don't go tightening that small nipple down until you snap it off. Are you sure that you don't have a leak from the piston o-ring or the hose which will to be running down and dripping off the nipple which just happens to be the lowest point on the brake caliper? These leaks can be hard to pinpoint unless you pull the fairing off and look closely. You may need to clean it off and observe over time.

One of the things that really helps to prevent PIO is more trim. Assuming you have been trimming all the way around the pattern. I usually grab 2 handfuls of the trim wheel right before the threshold. The nose will get very light and require some down input. This is good because if you bounce it it will keep the nose up, more back pressure and either fly it for another landing or power and get out of there.

The ASN in the post by @Mooney in Oz (from the ASIAS) says: ”nose landing gear collapse following a bounced landing at Manassas Regional Airport/Harry P. Davis Field (HEF)”