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I read an accident report of the Labcore plane transporting samples stored on dry ice.

Don’t forget the density of the two.

Maybe I'm wrong, but my research shows the latent heat of vaporization for water ice is 144 btu/pound, but COOLING the ice below 32 F only gets you 0.5 btu/F. Most ice is purchased is around 20 F to 25 F, so only another 6 btu/pound, so around 150 btu/pound is the best you're going to do. Dry ice's latent heat of sublimation is nearly 250 btu/pound. Dry ice is at about -110 F, so you could pick up another 80 btu if you used the dry ice to cool the water ice as you suggested; that would get you around 225 btu/pound. But, that seem quite the hassle as you still need to get rid of the water! Again, this is just 'back of envelope' spit-balling, so my numbers may be way off

I did Jet Center a few years ago. They were very reasonable.

I’m just taking pride in the fact that Cirrus pilots can’t have this argument….

I couldn't agree more. Although these discussions can be enlightening I feel we're mostly missing the the most important thing. No matter what procedure you use its clear folks aren't practicing the procedure enough because we keep seeing fatal accidents from what should be well practiced go around procedures. Such as the Cirrus last week that didn't have a gear to mess with but got to slow leading the all to common loss of control and then accelerated stall turning. Regardless of how comfortable we are in our landings we need to regularly practice a Go Around like everything else! On another related topic I was reminded discussing this with another longbody pilot is the use of rudder trim. I encourage longbody pilot to forego use of Rudder trim on takeoff and save it for the long climb after initial takeoff. But when every takeoff is done with rudder trim then the Go Around is doubly hard and much easier to get into trouble from not being practiced at using adequate rudder while climbing and high power on a GA. On the other hand pilots that already have the rudder skills at takeoff have an easier time with the GA.

Thus the important part about raising gear: Full throttle POSITIVE RATE, Gear Up Flaps up when clear (Just like every takeoff)

I started reading this and immediately thought "but CO2" and then you addressed it at the end...lol Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

I thought we went through this dry ice thing a while back. While dry ice has more sensible heat capacity, water ice has much more latent heat capacity. I think super cooled water ice is your best bet. You could cool your water ice with dry ice before you used it. That would really be the best you could do.

I've toyed with the idea of using dry ice, rather than water ice, to build an "Arctic Cool" type of system. Dry ice at minus whatever it is, has almost twice the heat capacity of water ice and it doesn't leave behind all that water to get rid of! Dry ice sublimes at less than 0.5 lb/hour. At the higher heat capacity you'd only need about half as many pounds of dry ice and very likely to last 6 hours, or more! Thing is, it is IMPERATIVE to have a fool-proof system to vent the sublimated CO2 gas overboard; 1 pound of dry ice generates about 8.5 cubic feet of CO2! Mooney cabin is around 75 cubic feet, so directly adding over 4 cubic feet per hour of CO2 to the cabin would be seriously bad!

Would love to have A/C in Bravo for summer ground ops. Unfortunately my current W&B would make such endeavor an exercise in futility. Good luck with it. Hope it will work for you and others.

31 pounds for the AC stuff, 21 for the battery. The Ecoflow is 50 pounds with battery so, it's a wash there. I'm using a 100Ah LifePO4 for.the buffer battery. That should handle ground ops and then recharge some in flight. I see this as really running off the battery with the alternator just charging that more than running off the airplane electrical. That's how the Ecoflow runs, it uses its own battery and I have a 10A charging cable going to it. For this, I'd run heavier wire on its own 50A breaker, like the PlaneAC called for. I haven't figured out what yet but, I'm going to put some sort of electrical isolation on so this won't cause any feedback to the electrical system. Might be as simple as a couple of diodes, I need to dig into that more. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

As far as I know they're still selling spatial interiors through Wisconsin Aviation - see https://www.jaegeraviation.com/home I haven't had any recent experience though.

How much does all that weigh? Check your 'buffer' battery capability/capacity carefully because, on the ground when you really need the AC, the engine is NOT going to be running at a high enough rpm for the alternator to help much. I.e. most of that 60 Amps is going to have to come from the battery for as long as you need to startup, taxi, run-up, and wait for release. Also, I'd be very careful with tying in a non-aviation electrical item into the aircraft's electrical system (alternator and ship's battery).

Hard to say. There have been changes since I left. TAC Air would have been my recommendation, but they were bought up by Signature bought them. Signature is Signature - great service, but costly. Jet Center has been there forever and they are good people. Modern Aviation wasn't there at all and I don't know anything about them. You might want to look at the roads; access to the south ramp (south of the crosswind runway) is very different than from the north side of the airport. North side has ore local options. Just because of personal familiarity, I'd choose JetCenter. And with a lot of GA jet traffic, I'd avoid Signature. But Id also be checking services and reviews, especially they new folks if the south side works for you.

The trim wheel got stuck in the full up position and required a significant amount of pressure to release it.

Where is the diversity????? Just kidding people relax. Bring the gear up first.

@kortopates, did Paul takeover Bruce’s Interior shop or someone else? Are they still around?

You've got to be kidding. What happens when you raise the flaps? The nose pitches up, which is exactly what we're working to prevent.

Not long ago, this back wall unit was advertised in my FB feed. I thought it was a self contained 24v AC at first and sent it to @LANCECASPER thinking maybe it could be an alternative since PlaneAC is no more. Turned out it was just the head unit part but, it sent me down a rabbit hole trying to reverse engineer the PlaneAC. I've been using the Ecowave Flow 2 and it's ok but, not great. Really, it's only good for the person it's blowing directly on, with 2 people in the plane someone is going to sweat. When my wife is with me, I'm the one sweating. I came across some 12v AC kits with electric compressors, they need 60ish amps at 12v to run, which would be borderline for my alternator however, with a buffer battery I think I can make it work. So I ordered one to work out a prototype and see if it's possible. The condenser is going to be my biggest challenge, the one that comes with it is probably too large...unless I can talk my IA into letting me mount it in the tail and sign it off for me with a 337. I'd just need a couple of small holes in the baggage compartment bulkhead to pass the refrigerant lines through and a new W&B. It doesn't change anything structurally, I'll have a chat with him and see what he thinks. I'd say my odds of convincing him are 50/50, at best but, he can't say yes if I don't ask. If he says no way, then I'll figure out a way to fully self contained like PlaneAC did Anyway, like the Mooney Mover, this will be a share as I go project. It's going to take a little while to work it all out. If anyone has suggestions for a more compact condenser, I'd be interested. Something with double rows could work. This is supposed to be a 10,000 BTU system and this one is actually a heat pump because the cool only was unavailable. Any comments and/or suggestions are welcome.

Arguably if you had raised flaps to take off position first, and tried to retrim that pressure, then raised the gear, perhaps you wouldn't have been in a position to struggle against the full pitch up moment of retracted flaps with no functioning trim and at the higher airspeed due to retracted gear. I'm basically a baby compared to your experience and so obviously no one should listen to me and perhaps I too will learn the same lessons as you have and changed my ways someday. But I've done several go arounds already, the way the POH says for my Bravo, and found that to work out well. So I'll stick to that, if nothing else, due to the law of primacy. I also think my arguments why raising flaps to take off first hold water and it's perhaps the reason why POH was written this way. To repeat, the moment is less at slower speed, and more gradual when flaps are reduced in stages allowing time to retrim the pressure, the gear staying down longer provides a safety net if an inadvertent touch down happens when performing the go around late, and finally flaps TO and gear down is the takeoff configuration in which my plane can climb above obstacles. This is probably the most important point. I brief the go around sequence before every single landing, always.

@Brad Reid If the system will engage with FD and ALT hold only and when selecting a lateral control mode like heading, nav, approach the system disconnects. I would check the compass valid input to the computer. If the compass valid fails and you have a lateral control mode selected it will instantly disconnect the system. It will not allow you to engage the system with a lateral control mode if the compass valid has failed.

So you are not depressing the brake, but what about the rudder? If you are approaching with rudder input to correct for crosswind, but fail to neutralize rudder input prior to the nose wheel touching down, the plane will inevitably depart the centerline, possibly with noticeable enthusiasm.

Very happy with mine, installed well.

The 8 second ride thing is real if the nosewheel isn’t set up correctly. You can also get lots of slop in the steering over time. This made the steering on my F feel “loose” or maybe it “wandered” a bit but it didn’t “dart”. Sloppiness is usually worn bolts/bushings and you can see where with it up on jacks. Lie under the nosewheel and turn it slowly back and forth see where. If it’s really darting, check the link @MikeOH posted. I would do that pronto as people have gone off the runway with that one.