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I had the prop IRANed 18 months or so ago. That includes disassembly, new seals, dressing the blades, paint and a static balance. I haven't done a dynamic balance, I'm sure it would help some. Since doing the motor mounts though I don't feel any vibration in the airplane. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

When was the last time the propeller/rotating assembly dynamically balanced ?

Last annual they found a pickled (TKS) frog in my tail cone.

RHS outboard cowl flap hinge bolt continues to loosen itself on my `78 M20J (shown below). 1) How do I correct this problem? Cowl flap movement is slowly backing bolt out of integrated flap nut. 2) Is the bushing easy to replace by hand if replace bolt and washer(s)? 3) The parts catalog indicates two washers with each hinge bolt assembly (71-10-01 item #12) yet I only see one on aircraft. Where is second washer supposed to be installed? Thanks!

My C model eats landing lights, filament or LED style. I've had 2 AeroLED PAR46 lamps fail in the last 3 years, at $200 a pop, it gets expensive. I'm pretty sure it's vibration killing them, has anyone figured out a way to dampen that and get longer life out of them? I'm thinking about putting a rubber gasket between it and the back and another between it and the front retaining ring, I'm not sure it would help much thought. It's still going to have the aiming/set screws from the back side locking it into the cowl and there will be contact all the way around on the edge of the lamp so the gaskets aren't going to kill the vibration completely. I already replaced my engine mounts in December after installing a new light in November and I still had to replace that light this month so, while the mounts definitely made the airplane feel smoother, they didn't help the landing light. I don't fly at night so I don't actually *NEED* the light, it just bugs me to have it not working during the pre-flight and I like to turn it on when I'm on final to make myself more visible.

The cowl mod STC should have the part # for the spinner you have/need. it looks like you have the SWTA? Cowl mod and it does call out the snippet you need w that mod/stc

This. I actually go out of my way to load the airplane more tail heavy for improved true airspeed I believe on the classic Mooney's, the battery was located up front on the firewall?

Try @Jerry Pressley Or Allan Fox As a side note….i feel your pain. I am finishing up restoration of an experimental airplane. I decided to add an electrical system to include an alternator. I decided to do automotive with my own design Overvoltage protection and brackets. I never did find off the shelf brackets that worked and ended up having to do lots of mods. In the end, I was wishing I bought Plane Power or B&C. I give them credit for those aircraft specific components that make the difference between easy and hard. As a side note, I put a PlanePower on my Mooney years ago and have had no issues. Install was relatively easy, after you trim the baffles.

I understand that....he wanting to know how to start the aircraft as he has no means of priming it due to the electric fuel pump being inop.

Hello All, I’m at the tail end of my nightmare annual (I hope) where I’ve essentially brought a plane back from the scrapyard at this point. Engine is due back from overhaul in mid to late October and trying to get the final pieces in place. 1968 M20G (680021 Serial) The MX is letting me source parts to try to save a little bit of money, but I’m struggling to find alternator brackets. The fall-back plan is to buy the plane power, but an overhauled ALY-8520 is about $800 so I’d rather take that route if I can. The alternator that was on the plane was a CarQuest Alternator which the MX won’t put back on the plane (pictured). All of the manuals I’ve looked at show the generator, not the alternator. It should be the same as the M20C (Lycoming O-360-A1D). The alternator overhaul shop I was buying an alternator from said they have a bin full of brackets but they would need dimensions and a photo to see if they can find the correct brackets in the bin. Does anyone know where the correct brackets can be found, or can anyone share their bracket images and dimensions? (Or have an alternator and brackets they want to sell? Can be a core. (also on the hunt for an overhauled oil cooler…) As always, thank you in advance!

The original Duke pumps were not rated for continuous duty and burned out pretty quickly. Overhauled though get better parts and rated for continuous duty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this actually documented anywhere or just scuttlebutt?

Interesting, when I had my 900 firmware updated, I had to send it in, something about hardware changes. Price was right, free.

Is the battery in the tail? I guess short bodies are more sensitive, with 10lbs in hat rack, 100 in cargo, and 200 in rear seat I’m still within limits with just me in front in my J.

But the OP said his electric pump didn’t work. He was asking about starting it without the pump.

I’ve gotten a few around here. Moving it for maintenance is right there on the form. All they ever wanted was an A&P to sign the form saying it was airworthy for the flight. There is no guidance for what that is. I think it matters what your relationship with the FSDO is.

That’s not Mooney.

Too thick of material.125 made from a roll Should Be .093 and cut from a sheet We die cut from a 48" wide sheet To clean use Toluene We die cut all models in seconds

At least the boston fsdo will not issue if anything in the tcds is not operational. Know from experience.

Wound up cutting into the bottom of the access panel. That allowed us to get to the nuts on top of the screws and get the panel off. Got a new (used) panel from BAS, and am installing it correctly now, so the next owner won't have the same problem.

Follow up: I bought a 10-32 Helicoil insertion tool off eBay. I put in some oil, and ran that tap in/out a couple of times. Degreased with some brake cleaner. Loaded a short (5 thread) Helicoil insert into the machine- zipped it right into place. Those insertion tools are the sizzle. Problem solved.

That's not terrible. That still makes this system a good deal IMO.

Not sure what else you are having done, but I got the gfc-500 with both pitch trim and YD and by the time everything was done, the change in aft CG was negligible, especially if you DON'T put 10lbs in the hat shelf area.

For my 1965 M20E, start checklist, you turn on the electric fuel pump, push mixture in for 5-7 seconds to get fuel in the lines/cylinder, turn it off, pull out mixture and then start...

Collet Chuck and a parting tool... I can hear that delrin singing now. It makes such a unique sound.