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Not sure you would need to do any paperwork as to how you locate where the drill/punch the holes.

That is at WOT. How long will that engine last at close to WOT? My daily driver puts out 180 HP at peak (turbo with intercooler). But my average MPG is around 35. And my average speed is around 35 MPH. So I average 1 GPH or 13.7 HP (assuming LOP operation). Not enough to fly a plane. Even at cruise on the highway I am burning about 2 GPH, or 27.4 HP. My performance car puts out a max of 333 HP, out of 196 cubic inches. But at a fast cruise, it burns 2.2 GPH or about 33 HP (naturally aspirated, higher compression).

12 volts at 5 amps is 60 watts. That is what is needed at start up. If you plane has a 24 volt outlet, 5 amps is 120 watts.

Swap probes see if it is the probe or the cylinder.

See my story of the Johnson Bar failure in Safety discussion. I concluded too much preload may have contributed to the failure but couldn't get my hands on the tools. I worked with a local fabricator from a template I had, to make a set. It was quickly apparent the original steel tools with welded up stiffeners was wildly over-built for the load applied. I simplified the tools, changed to aluminum and even skeletonized to greatly reduce the weight and welding, therefore cost. The previous comment is correct, clocking the torque wrench square will not effect the torque applied. It didn't occur to me a non-ratcheting wrench might be used. I also think the 1/2" ratchet should be changed to 3/8" more appropriate to the load and torque wrench size. I wouldn't have to use an adapter.

I put in a second lighter socket on left side, so only a short 1’ cable is needed. This is also far away from the radio, the right one is right next to my radio stack. No interference issues. My PS radio also has a UCB-C power port as well. I like the idea of sockets, in case USB-X becomes the new standard, or I want to use a non USB device (starlink, laptop, etc)

I assume all temps were equal before the cylinder change? So my first thought would be the probe since that’s easy to swap. Second thing I’d do is borescope to check the cylinder wall condition and the plugs. Not a mechanic. Just spitballing…

No sooner do I get the broken through bolt replaced and another random thing breaks. I got the broken through bolt replaced this weekend (see other thread for that), did a nice long run up and then flew near the airport for a bit before finally heading out on a short flight to a nearby field for lunch. Everything was going perfect, engine working great. Feeling pretty confident that the through bolt failure didn't have any latent issues. Then I head back from lunch. A couple minutes after departing my EDM 900's tach display starts oscillating wildly. At first I'm a bit panicked, did something go wrong? However, nothing sounded or felt wrong. If my RPM was acting as crazy as the instrument it would have been obvious. So I landed and....the RPM started working. Pulled the cowl an started looking for the RPM sensor. Found the cord and traced it forward...and realized it was just completely snapped off. It must have just been touching, and just the air through the cowl was making it move around and sometimes make contact. I'm having trouble trying to figure out what actually will need to be replaced and I like to know that before I call in the mechanic. Since the part number 420807 on the wire is the pressurized mag part to me it looks like someone cut the end off a pressurized mag JPI sensor (I don't have pressurized mags afaik either so not sure why that part) and then crimped another wire onto the end? This doesn't really look like https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/in/probesandsenders_zjpi/jpi10-05459-61.php. Sorry, It's a little hard to tell what's going on in these photos, but I'm holding the broken off spiced wire. I had trouble finding where exactly it broke off of tbh. I'm assuming one of my mag will have the end of the sensor in it.

I would rather avoid even more fire hazards in my plane.

I stand corrected Maybe brain fart from being up too late recently :-)

Uhh

Hello Mooney People, Just had good top overhaul for IO550 AFTER 1100 HOURS. Six factory new cylinders nicely done. using straight mineral oil and have put 16 hours on new cylinders. Fliing at 75% power and intermittent very to 65 % power. Enging running very smoothly. Still number #4 cylinder EGT runs 100 degrees over others running at 75 percent power running ROP. Thinking might be bad probe??? What else would cause one EGT cylinder #4 to run hotter? Now have 16 hours since work was done and plan oil change and analysis and will carefully cut open oil filter. Look for tiny metal sparkles. Oill consumption stable now. Thinking time to go back to AD oil. Would love some opinions.... Thanks Alan N913ND Ovation KVNC

tha'ts what they do with airplane engines, if it could run at 5k rpm it would put out massive hp also., no controversy here fuel+spark = hp. add a turbo and things get interesting, even that DOG of a ford v8 posted earlier would put out much higher numbers at lower rpm. someone talk diamond into selling their diesel heres a chart for my pedestrian ecodiesel

When and if you get around to buying exterior screws, I second this advice. There just aren't that many different types of screws on the exterior of an M20F, and it's not that hard to get the exact part numbers from the IPC. The kits always seem to be a bit off, and even if you had a perfect kit it's not like the kit itself tells you which screws are really supposed to go in which panels.

You can get fine interior trim screws anywhere. Two months after I bought my F, I flew to Airventure. I went to the fly market with some sample screws and interior washers and bought a bunch dirt cheap. I then spent an evening in the north 40 sweating my baguettes off replacing every interior trim screw.

Fuel distribution along with a slight throttle reduction helps… -Don

A lot! -Don

What's the idea with partial carb heat? 148 KTAS is great!

And… how many knots is that fancy @Sabremech cowl worth???

That was before I added FF. I averaged 7.2 GPH in that flight with a touch of carb heat… ~148 knots true in cruise... -Don

These are all knock off's. I don't believe you can but factory made gear tools anymore, only used original ones. Even the one that LASAR sells are knock off's. The angle pictured here does match the factory original but a different angle doesn't affect the torque but it may allow a longer arm wrench to be used without interfering with an inner gear door. Mine just barely clears the inner door but coming straight out makes it easier to pull the desired load IMO - so I prefer this orientation.

Keith, Who made these? Why is the MLG tool different then original? I see the square hole for the wrench is rotated 45deg which, in my view changes the applied torque and the measured value is not correct anymore. Regards.

did you have carb heat on? I like your 0 FF,,did you have your CARB heat on? Here is mine the other day at either 8 or 9000 feet...

My C @ 9000 WOT (~21 MAP, 2400 RPM ) or key # 45

I know EGT's really don't have a red line but in the O-360 in a C what would be highest number you would want to see even if CHTs are at or under 400?