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If the plane is not controllable, then nothing you can do will change the outcome. My point is, to have pilots experience window or door opening to 1) show them it is not a big deal and 2) to teach them to ignore the distraction and FLY THE AIRPLANE.

I agree that in general, needing and overhaul is better than just overhauled. BUT, the shop that did the overhaul can flip that. A quality shop overhaul would be a good thing to me. A no name shop or known marginal shop would be a NO GO.

You didn't have to give details.

That’s not “normal”. Even though OSHA standards say that in a work environment so many PPM of CO is acceptable I wouldn’t accept any in the airplane except in taxi with the door ajar and the side window open. Adding fresh air to dilute it is just masking the leak. If you are getting any in climb or cruise it is getting in through a leak somehow. Two questions would be: Where is it coming from? How is it getting in? Usually if everything is good in the engine compartment it gets in through the cabin door seal or if there are screws or camlocks missing on the belly. But if there’s a leak in the engine compartment it could also be coming in through the firewall. This is something I would chase down in case it’s.the exhaust system showing signs of wearing through. I had a the back side of a tailpipe joint coming apart on a Bravo which was not picked up on a visual inspection but was discovered with a CO detector.

I think @Alan Fox had one a while back?

Ok any idea where to find those drawings? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might want to replace both blocks while you're at it, the Up and Down blocks. Someone posted the drawing a couple of years ago, which would let yiu go OPP and hire someone to make a set for you.

I did mine by myself. The headliner needs to drop down in one piece. Once the tubes and wiring are disconnected, you can remove the three screws holding the two halves together and remove the headliner in two pieces. That’s the only way to get it through the door. You can see in one of my photos where I reinforced the nuts for those three screws with cement.

No, they’re on back order. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That was actually the reason for the photo, because my CO Warn light (the bottom in the row) was not on despite the CO detector beeping. This was in the climb. It will creep up like if I don’t have fresh air coming in. As soon as I get into cruise and close the cowl flaps it drops to >5ppm. Thats just a trick of the light, it was not illuminated. That light is a voltage annunciator.

A quick look at the Speed Power vs Altitude chart in the POH says to get 200KTAS it would take 34/2400 @ PeakTIT of 17.6 GPH to get near those speeds. Really, you are looking at more like 20.5-21gph to do it, well more properly. I didn't include it above, but I did run 34/2400 cruise for a 5-10 minutes after level off. At 10k and +9c I was at a temp adjusted 20.8 FF for the Power FF on the chart, 1620TIT, 408CHT with the Cowl Flaps closed. The TIT is the absolute limit it's been suggested I tolerate to keep the exhaust from failing over time, and the CHT is 9 degrees over my personal max. POH calculates 187KTAS for that setting, I was getting 185KTAS at close to MTOW. It will do it, but not interested in living at that power setting in cruise. I'll get the numbers you suggest at 18k & a 31/2200 power setting for that FF. HTH

I guess I am in the ball park. My TAS is 180+- at those altitudes on 17-18 GPH at full gross. Little better when light. I was just looking at some of the other Bravos and they state that at that altitude should be at 200kt + with TKS.

I got the front and back out by myself; I think you could re-install by yourself but I'll get another set of hand to make it easier/lessen risk to making mark on the new paint.

Got it, thanks! Looks like a two person job to get that down while holding it up and having enough arms left to disconnect vents and wires!

Went flew to lunch last Saturday at Port Townsend, WA (0S9) and one flew in. Older gentleman having lunch also.

The Wemacs are riveted into the ducts, then permanently attached to the headliner. I removed them because I had two where the clips came out and they were just loose in there. Of course, they all got a good cleaning while apart. It was such a pain in the ass I never want to have to do that again. Cut the housings open, drilled out the rivets, and the wemacs come free. Clean them, re-rivet them in, then glue the housings back to the headliner. I used ABS or PVC cement I can’t remember which, the yellow stuff. Works like a hot damn and the bond is as good as new.

The jungle store also has 2 different tire talc bottles for sale Both 1pound

The wemacs are glued in, but the duct tubing that connects to them has clamps similar to hose clamps (I replaced them with regular hose clamps when I reinstalled). So you can drop the headliner down enough to release the clamps and then remove it.

Lasar not have the new ones? -Don

Are you guys saying there’s no way to remove the headliner without cutting around the wemac vents? I was contemplating removing it topaint it, but maybe it’s easier left in place? If so, did you just carefully mask up the entire cabin and paint it in place? That seems difficult as well…

Hello, in need of a down lock block for our F model. P/N 560006-003. Please let me know if anyone has a good used or new one available. Thanks! 717-809-9899

"Window trim/beading doesn't work...paint is not quite right....parts not here when promised...". and " I'd like to get this across the finish line. It's been too long!" OK now you sound more like a normal Mooney owner working on their 40+ year old plane. Someone on a different MS topic said that they estimate how long it will take to work on their Mooney and multiply by three (3)....

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/xtra-seal/xtra-seal-powder-tire-talc/xts0/14550

Exactly (I used to own one.)

I remember reading it, but couldn't find it. Is that the Spruce bag, or amazon?