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Fuel draining near front landing gear

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Noticed a fuel ring to the left of my nose wheel.  Did a little reading on the forums and someone recommended turning on the electric fuel pump, let it get up to full pressure and then turn if off and check the fuel pressure after a minute.  My pressure was back to zero before the minute was up. The second picture highlights where it is streaming from but it isn't the fuel sump.  My wife shot the video and she said it was dripping slow until I turned on the electric fuel pump and slowed again when I turned it off.  Someone at my home airport said the booster pump is bad. 

Is the term "booster pump" the same as "electric fuel pump?"

Does this mean the seals on my electric fuel pump/booster pump are bad?

I was going to remove the cover to get a closer look but the nose wheel cover is in the way of half the screws.  Is there a way release the wheel cover without lifting the plane and swinging the gear up?

Sorry the video is sideways. 



Edited by Cruiser73
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Expect to oh the electric fuel pump.

The mechanical fuel pump has a similar set-up, but it is further forward under the cowl…

that is a sign it needs to be resealed, or the diaphragm has split…

that is the drain fitting attached to the pump itself…

Easy to send out, back in a few days… kind of thing.

Great video and test description..!

PP thoughts only,


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Same thing happened to my pump last week. We removed and sent to AeromotorsLLC in Browntown Wisconsin.  Not difficult to remove but be sure to send the return shipping label and a check in the box. Call them and they will give you details. 

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44 minutes ago, Jsno said:

Disconnect the linkage to the gear door and you can rotate it enough to get a 90 degree screwdriver on the screws.  You can get a ratcheting one at harbor freight.

If you disconnect the linkage to the gear door it will swing out of the way for a regular #2 phillips.   Make sure you pay attention to how the washers are done on the door linkage so you put it back the same way.   Take a pick.

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IF you disconnect the link arm on the nose gear door (so the door can flop around) make sure you pay attention to the location of the very small spacers located on the bolt right next to the hiem ball joint that attaches to the link rod. These spacers are very small and easy to miss as you slide the bolt out of the gear door hinge. 

Pat attention to which goes where and this is a good time to check the freedom of movement of the ball end of the rod that the bolt goes through. It should rotate all directions without binding. Put some oil on it but better yet is 100% silicone spray lube. 

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