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Posted
1 hour ago, M20Doc said:

This might help.

When in doubt, read the manual :lol:

I had searched the Lyc parts manual to find out what the U-shaped lifting loop was called, apparently it is a 'lifting eye' and there is only one of them at the center of the case. I am seeing how the 'load leveler' scheme with a prop strap would help balance the whole shebang, but if two are working the problem, that shouldn't be an issue (jockeying the engine around to allow access to the mounts).

 

Posted

You guys are over complicating this.  Pull the spinner & get a scissor jack positioned on a couple of saw horses directly under the prop hub (blades horizontal) get enough wood blocking and top it off with a rubber pad and take the weight off the engine as you work to get the mounts exchanged.  You want to minimize the movement of the engine on the mount as the angle of the bolts (dynafocal mount) makes removing them a chore.  The other thing .. at least on the 180 hp mounts, they are indexed with a dowel pin (1/8" dia.) you have to rotate the shock mounts in the engine mount before they seat.  I make my own shims, be sure you file/bevel the starting edge to ease their insertion between the engine case and metal face of the shock mounts.  Take your time.  And ALL the bolts get an equal torque!

Posted

Great pics, Harley...

They are swelling.  As if they have absorbed something.  

A rubber material in contact with a solvent can do something similar to  that.

Hard to imagine what it could be adsorbing in that environment...?

Is the surface tacky/sticky at all?  (A sign of the rubber breaking down and losing its molecular weight)

I don't see any surface cracks like rubber that has been exposed to UV light and O2....

Best regards,

-a-

Posted
7 hours ago, carusoam said:

Great pics, Harley...

They are swelling.  As if they have absorbed something.  

A rubber material in contact with a solvent can do something similar to  that.

Hard to imagine what it could be adsorbing in that environment...?

Anthony,

You must understand where my hangar is located :wacko:

SET.jpg.89f8abc18ae2d91f618e5cd455c678ba.jpg

The gear pucks I had removed in September were hard as rocks. I am sure it depends on the stiffness desired that determines the composition of the rubber. Also, the under-cowl environment is very, very warm compared to the gear swinging in the breeze and exposed most of the time. Add to that all the solvents and other VOCs swirling around under there notwithstanding the petrochemical wonderland of Southeast Texas!

 

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, about halfway through the mounts exchange. Extremely tricky to do. It was time though...IMG_8487.thumb.jpg.94278a8399639a8082ef035fa96eb626.jpg

...and I am really looking forward to a cool engine again.

Posted
On 2018-01-21 at 11:50 AM, mike20papa said:

You guys are over complicating this.  Pull the spinner & get a scissor jack positioned on a couple of saw horses directly under the prop hub (blades horizontal) get enough wood blocking and top it off with a rubber pad and take the weight off the engine as you work to get the mounts exchanged.  You want to minimize the movement of the engine on the mount as the angle of the bolts (dynafocal mount) makes removing them a chore.  The other thing .. at least on the 180 hp mounts, they are indexed with a dowel pin (1/8" dia.) you have to rotate the shock mounts in the engine mount before they seat.  I make my own shims, be sure you file/bevel the starting edge to ease their insertion between the engine case and metal face of the shock mounts.  Take your time.  And ALL the bolts get an equal torque!

Hartzell would be happy to sell you a new hub.

Clarence

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Question-

So looks like I found a gray area in the engine mount PN’s?

I have SN 551 M20E.

The IPC lists 2 P/N mounts one for the C/D and then one for the E/F P/N J9612-8.

Lord says: J7402-16 for S/N 101-470 but does not list my SN. Then years 69-75 p/N J9612-2. Lord does not have the j9612-8 p/n listed anywhere. 

Would the J9612-8 still be the most current P/N? 

Who else has replaced their mounts recently? 

Thanks!

-Matt

 

 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, MB65E said:

Question-

So looks like I found a gray area in the engine mount PN’s?

I have SN 551 M20E.

The IPC lists 2 P/N mounts one for the C/D and then one for the E/F P/N J9612-8.

Lord says: J7402-16 for S/N 101-470 but does not list my SN. Then years 69-75 p/N J9612-2. Lord does not have the j9612-8 p/n listed anywhere. 

Would the J9612-8 still be the most current P/N? 

Who else has replaced their mounts recently? 

Thanks!

-Matt

Ran into the same issue 65 M20E # 578, called lords and they looked them and I ordered through Spruce

  • Thanks 1
Posted
8 minutes ago, RLCarter said:

Ran into the same issue 65 M20E # 578, called lords and they looked them and I ordered through Spruce

Thanks, do you remember what P/N lord said was correct. I’m just surprised nothing is currently published from Lord stating what one to use. Also, when you ordered them from spruce, what was the bushing/spacer part number? I just have a hard time believing the old IPC P/N hasn’t been superseded. 

Thanks again, 

-Matt

Posted
3 minutes ago, MB65E said:

Thanks, do you remember what P/N lord said was correct. I’m just surprised nothing is currently published from Lord stating what one to use. Also, when you ordered them from spruce, what was the bushing/spacer part number? I just have a hard time believing the old IPC P/N hasn’t been superseded. 

Thanks again, 

-Matt

I will check the # in the morning when Im at the hangar, as far as the bushing/spacer it came with the mounts. I do remember out of the 4 or so mounts that were used in that era ours are the most expensive.....

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, MB65E said:

Question-

So looks like I found a gray area in the engine mount PN’s?

I have SN 551 M20E.

The IPC lists 2 P/N mounts one for the C/D and then one for the E/F P/N J9612-8.

Lord says: J7402-16 for S/N 101-470 but does not list my SN. Then years 69-75 p/N J9612-2. Lord does not have the j9612-8 p/n listed anywhere. 

Would the J9612-8 still be the most current P/N? 

Who else has replaced their mounts recently? 

Thanks!

-Matt

 

 

 

I went through this a month ago. Lord suggested that I use 'LORD ENGINE MOUNT # J-9613-12' based on the photos I sent them and I ordered the new ones from Spruce (Part # 07-01122). I just got them all in yesterday and they matched what came out. The Mistress is S/N 848.

Edited by HRM
added link
Posted

Well, I have the engine back on and all the mounts in place, just need to torque and then button up.

Lessons learned from my engine mount expedition:

  1. If Maxwell says it will take him '5 hours' to do it, it will take you over 20.
  2. The Mooney is a complex puzzle that when working on it will evoke awe, consternation, confusion, perplexity, a large tab at Harbor Freight and a stream of expletives that you did not think you were capable of uttering.
  3. Many will offer advice, much will be utter nonsense. This journey is solitary.
  4. You need six hands--if you manage to recruit four extra you will discover that your mind does not control them and so they are pretty much useless. The floor hoist is your friend.
  5. There is no rocket science to aircraft repair--most valuable, if you lack experience, is patience and a good grasp of physics and materials science.
  6. In keeping with #5, I will never allow a non-Mooney mechanic to touch my E. I do not have the funds to support their education.

...and, here's a photo. The mount may look good, but it is not. Spongey and squashed. I elected to replace the hardware, these are the old bolts. It is amazing all the parts that you find (screws, washers, nutplates, etc.) when you pull the lower cowl. 

5aaae58697131_EngineMountDetritus.thumb.JPG.8ddcfdfd94c6831790cf1cdefc5e2f59.JPG

  • Like 2
Posted
4 hours ago, HRM said:

Well, I have the engine back on and all the mounts in place, just need to torque and then button up.

Lessons learned from my engine mount expedition:

  1. If Maxwell says it will take him '5 hours' to do it, it will take you over 20.
  2. The Mooney is a complex puzzle that when working on it will evoke awe, consternation, confusion, perplexity, a large tab at Harbor Freight and a stream of expletives that you did not think you were capable of uttering.
  3. Many will offer advice, much will be utter nonsense. This journey is solitary.
  4. You need six hands--if you manage to recruit four extra you will discover that your mind does not control them and so they are pretty much useless. The floor hoist is your friend.
  5. There is no rocket science to aircraft repair--most valuable, if you lack experience, is patience and a good grasp of physics and materials science.
  6. In keeping with #5, I will never allow a non-Mooney mechanic to touch my E. I do not have the funds to support their education.

...and, here's a photo. The mount may look good, but it is not. Spongey and squashed. I elected to replace the hardware, these are the old bolts. It is amazing all the parts that you find (screws, washers, nutplates, etc.) when you pull the lower cowl. 

5aaae58697131_EngineMountDetritus.thumb.JPG.8ddcfdfd94c6831790cf1cdefc5e2f59.JPG

It's really good that you labelled the detritus.   Most people are not that thorough.  ;)

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