LED overhead instrument lights

[carusoam]

http://www.whelen.com/aviation/product.php?head_id=14&prod_id=96

-a-

[Glenn]

 

I bought this a few years ago and like them.  A couple of caveats:

• They are very bright and beyond the capacity of the old dimmer.  I glued a dark lens to the front of the housing.
• I needed to remove some of the plastic head liner around the socket to get sufficient movement.  A dremmel works well.  Don't forget to use safety goggles.

 

[M20C]

I replaced mine with these...

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/led_maplight2.php?clickkey=211643

[flyingvee201]

(Can't get a PDFs to post from my iPad?)

Here's photos of the PDF document. This is what you want!

Contact info on page one! And you can see the directions, just how easy it is!

I did a very similar project on my piper cherokee using the same LED bulb and a 3/4 inch pvc pipe connector and some flat black paint. Only thing you had to do is grind out the inside indent with a Dremel Tool.  I got the idea from the Cessna 120 club. They also have the same Grimes map light. The most expensive part was the red LED lights. www.superbrightleds.com   Once I get home, I will copy the Cessna 120 club's link that gives instructions on how to make your own.   One thing though....the dimmer switch will not dim the LEDs. not enough draw for the dimmer to realize the LEDs.  You can still twist it all the way and they will go off....but that's it. As mentioned earlier, you will need to purchase a different dimmer.  But I must say, they do brighten up the entire panel and lower section very nicely.  NEVER EVER get hot at all!

[DaV8or]

I replaced mine with these...

 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/led_maplight2.php?clickkey=211643

 

I like those. How was the install?

[flyingvee201]

For about $50, the kit I posted the instructions above are a way better deal, and an easier install. (If you have the older type shoulder lights shown on his pictures). The guy's contact info is on there. You get two red LEDs and two new shrouds, so no fabricating parts. I did not need a new dimmer switch - I had other incandesant bulbs (e.g. two CDIs) on the circuit ...

Mine work better than the original and dim just fine ...

Sorry to make things too easy ...

:-)  Yes! that works very well too!   I had to change the dimmer because the overhead map lights are the only things on that particular dimmer.

[DanM20C]

I went the www.superbrightleds.com route.  I liked the look of the torpedo fixtures and wanted to reuse them.  The red lens cover comes off easily by removing the retaining clip.  To remove the lens, you just need to drill/grind the center of the knurled adjusting nob on the back of the torpedo.  This is silver soldered onto a screw that is used to move the lens back and forth.  Then the lens assembly pushes out the front of the fixture. I purchased two 67-R9 Bulbs (Red 9-led 15 degree) $2.99 each. Two BA15S-EB bulb bases for 49 cents each (I used these to make a power plug). Two BA15S-SW Sockets for 99 cents each.

 

I had a piece of 1/2" Liquatite conduit laying around and found that the O.D. fit nicely inside the torpedo fixture and the I.D. fit the BA15S-SW socket snugly(after the mounting tabs were cut off the socket)  I usedLiquatite to make a bushing with a notch in it.  The notch then fits around the guide that is molded into the torpedo fixture for the original lens.  I then soldered a ground wire onto the socket and fished the wires through the original bulb hole.  Pushed the socket into the liquatite bushing to a depth that allowed the original red lens cover to fit when the led bulb was installed.  Once put together it was very snug, no glue or screws were needed.   

http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36285-img-20141229-165528/

 

I used the BA15S-EB bulb bases to make a plug that attached to the original socket.  This photo shows my first attempt.  I turned out that my plug was too long, once in the socket the torpedo fixture couldn't be pushed up far enough to be clipped on.  The plug would hit my bushing/socket inside the torpedo.  My solution was to cut the plug down.

http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36286-img-20141229-165605/

 

This photo shows the completed fixtures, one with the lens cover off to show the led light.  You can see my plug that is shortened.  I filled it with epoxy for more durability. 

http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36291-/

 

completed fixtures with the parts removed that are not used.

http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36288-img-20141231-115203/

 

I like this set up because nothing was changed on the airplane, and all the changes I made to the Torpedo fixture are not permanent.  I can't imagine why I would ever want to use the original setup again but I have that option. 

 

I basically ended up with same thing the piper guys are doing, just slightly more attractive. (and time consuming)  

 

http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36290-img-20141231-124234/

 

The light output is twice that of my originals.  The color in the picture is off, these are red not orange. 

http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36289-img-20141231-124156/

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 21, 2017 by DanM20C

[Sven]

What a great/creative solution. Can these be dimmed? 

 

[DanM20C]

Yes, they are just like the other LEDs listed in this thread. In fact, I think they are all using this exact bulb. As others have said, you may need a different dimmer if there are no other incandescent bulbs in the circuit. These dim great in my plane with original dimmer.

[rbridges]

what other bulbs are on that dimmer?  I'm trying to think if another incandescent bulb is on that circuit.  One overhead rheostat controls the panel and the other controls the overhead light, correct?

[ryoder]

Can't wait to do this mod.  

[rbridges]

I'm going to check. I have two overhead rheostats. I'd love to do this mod. Thanks for the links.

[Hector]

Yes, they are just like the other LEDs listed in this thread. In fact, I think they are all using this exact bulb. As others have said, you may need a different dimmer if there are no other incandescent bulbs in the circuit. These dim great in my plane with original dimmer.

Dan, thanks for posting this mod. I actually purchased the kit from shortwingpiper a few days ago thinking it would be a simple solution but it was not. The overhead panel in my 67C may be a little different but even after enlarging the opening with a Dremel tool as suggested I still could not get the lights positioned correctly. I started thinking about how to modify the existing torpedo lights to LED, but thanks to your post I will not have to reinvent the wheel.

[Hector]

Hmmm ... I just went to my first Mooney gathering last month. Noticed right away, there are many small and some not so small differences in our Mooneys.

Sorry it wasn't an easy solution.

No worries, I figured as much. Besides, looks like my hangar neighbor next door will be able to use them.

[rbridges]

 

I checked, and I'm not sure it will work.  The rheostat that controls the overhead lights seems to be isolated to them.  The panel lights are controlled by the other rheostat.  I'm guessing this rheostat won't work with LED lights?

[DanM20C]

My '69 is nothing like yours. I only have one rheostat in the panel that dims everything.

In your case I would at least try an led bulb in the socket an see if it dims. If it does great, if not just replace the rheostat. Looks like an easy replacement. Especially compared to the panel surgery I have to go through to get mine out. Although I'm getting good at with all the practice I have had.

[rbridges]

From what I read, the current rheostat will have too much resistance.  It will probably be full brightness then suddenly go dim.  I'm thinking about doing the swap and seeing how it looks at full brightness.  If it's too much, I can have the rheostat changed later.

[DaV8or]

 

I went the www.superbrightleds.com route.  I liked the look of the torpedo fixtures and wanted to reuse them.  The red lens cover comes off easily by removing the retaining clip.  To remove the lens, you just need to drill/grind the center of the knurled adjusting nob on the back of the torpedo.  This is silver soldered onto a screw that is used to move the lens back and forth.  Then the lens assembly pushes out the front of the fixture. I purchased two 67-R9 Bulbs (Red 9-led 15 degree) $2.99 each. Two BA15S-EB bulb bases for 49 cents each (I used these to make a power plug). Two BA15S-SW Sockets for 99 cents each.

 

I had a piece of 1/2" Liquatite conduit laying around and found that the O.D. fit nicely inside the torpedo fixture and the I.D. fit the BA15S-SW socket snugly(after the mounting tabs were cut off the socket)  I usedLiquatite to make a bushing with a notch in it.  The notch then fits around the guide that is molded into the torpedo fixture for the original lens.  I then soldered a ground wire onto the socket and fished the wires through the original bulb hole.  Pushed the socket into the liquatite bushing to a depth that allowed the original red lens cover to fit when the led bulb was installed.  Once put together it was very snug, no glue or screws were needed.   

 

 

I used the BA15S-EB bulb bases to make a plug that attached to the original socket.  This photo shows my first attempt.  I turned out that my plug was too long, once in the socket the torpedo fixture couldn't be pushed up far enough to be clipped on.  The plug would hit my bushing/socket inside the torpedo.  My solution was to cut the plug down.

 

 

This photo shows the completed fixtures, one with the lens cover off to show the led light.  You can see my plug that is shortened.  I filled it with epoxy for more durability. 

 

 

completed fixtures with the parts removed that are not used.

 

 

I like this set up because nothing was changed on the airplane, and all the changes I made to the Torpedo fixture are not permanent.  I can't imagine why I would ever want to use the original setup again but I have that option. 

 

I basically ended up with same thing the piper guys are doing, just slightly more attractive. (and time consuming)  

 

 

 

The light output is twice that of my originals.  The color in the picture is off, these are red not orange. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great job! Why did you put the red lenses back in? Just to make it look stock to prying eyes? I would follow your path, but as it is, my headliner is different than yours and the stock lights interfere with it and don't even aim where I want them to. Along with the ridiculous sun visors in my plane, Mooney gets a big fail on these items.

[DaV8or]

Am I wrong in thinking that if your plane doesn't have any other light bulbs on the dimmer circuit, that you could just chuck a resistor in the circuit to simulate a bulb and get the same effect, rather than buy a whole new rheostat?

[DonMuncy]

Alternately, couldn't you wire and additional bulb into the circuit, even if you just mounted it behind the headliner.

[DanM20C]

Alternately, couldn't you wire and additional bulb into the circuit, even if you just mounted it behind the headliner.

That would work, but those 10w bulbs get extremely hot. A resistor would be a better solution.

[DanM20C]

Great job! Why did you put the red lenses back in? Just to make it look stock to prying eyes? I would follow your path, but as it is, my headliner is different than yours and the stock lights interfere with it and don't even aim where I want them to. Along with the ridiculous sun visors in my plane, Mooney gets a big fail on these items.

No reason to reuse the red lens. I just thought it looked a little better. The light output with no lens vs red lens seemed the same on a side by side test.

[DonMuncy]

I agree. A resistor would be better. How hot does a 100 ohm resistor get.

[flyingvee201]

Very very nice!! Excellent job!

[DanM20C]

I agree. A resistor would be better. How hot does a 100 ohm resistor get.

If it is sized right not hot at all. They have a power rating too. In this case with the LEDs you would only need a 1 watt resister as each led is 1/2 watt.