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Posted

I was looking on aircraft spruce for a new ignition and trying to make sure it was Pma.  I searched the forum for the ignition that everyone was using for replacements and the ones from spruce which clearly say experimental or 337 form required.  I am a newb and guess I don't really know what that means?  Can I get some light shed on which ignition I can put in and what is the 337.

 

 

 

Posted

Per Bendix Service Bulletin SB 583, Ignition Switch part number 10-357210-1 is the replacement for the old 10-126680-2.

The "337" is the maintenance form to document a major repair or alteration.

Since there is a manufacturer's Service Bulletin, the new part number is a valid, legal replacement based on the original part number, so you would not need to document it on a 337- just a simple logbook entry noting the part number and referencing the SB.

Posted

Bendix has a rebuild kit that is a fraction of the cost to replace.

Takes about an hour to remove the switch, install the new parts and re-install the switch.

Posted

Andy, M201 and Mooneymite GREAT stuff Thanks!

 

Learn something new  every day.

 

Never too old to learn. 

 

superfly, read what they are saying here! You may not need to buy a complete switch assembly, only the repair kit or a good cleaning inside. Show the last 3 postings to your A&P.

Posted

Those are great posts.   Tell me if you think if will work for this issue.  The problem I am having is the key can and will come out while engaged and all the way to the right position while running. (NOT GOOD).  I also had an incident where I was shutting down and had an overzealous lineman coming up to chock the wheel.  I was reaching for the key to turn the mags off my last step. Key fell out while hot as I was trying to get it turned back to off and he ducked down to chock my front wheel under the prop and he did this all so quickly I didn't have time to say or do anything.  It is also at times impossible to even get the key to turn from the off position.  I have had times trying to start it that I am fumbling with the key for a min plus or getting out a second key to make sure I'm not losing my mind and have the wrong key in the ignition just to get it to turn to the start position.  It is already so tight in the upper left corner of the panel you have no room to finagle it add to it the ignition sticks and key can fall out I am just over it.  I'm just ready to have a normal ignition switch.  If a rebuild could handle these issues great, but I will gladly replace it.  I have only owned the aircraft since Oct and It's been on my list of squaks needing attention.

Posted

Those are great posts.   Tell me if you think if will work for this issue.  The problem I am having is the key can and will come out while engaged and all the way to the right position while running. (NOT GOOD).

It sounds as if your problem is in the lock portion, not the contact portion of the switch. From your description, I'm not sure.

The Bendix rebuild kit won't fix the lock part....take it to a local locksmith. The Bendix kit fixes switches that stay "hot" with the switch in OFF, or have contact issues. Refer to the AD on the switch.

Posted

Have a locksmith make you a new key.

 

I have 4 and they are all bad on any given day.  I went by aircraft spruce today and bought a new one. I'm over this one.  This one has the start position instead of the push to start.  I don't like that push to start too much.  Thanks for your replies.  I look forward to learning more and more with this community.

Posted

I didn't know the switches with the start detent would work with shower of sparks.

Is it a legal substitution? Does your F have a shower-of-sparks system?

Posted

I didn't know the switches with the start detent would work with shower of sparks.

Is it a legal substitution? Does your F have a shower-of-sparks system?

 

I can't answer that one.  I asked the guy at spruce, but he may not know.  I will find out tomorrow when the A&P starts into it.  I will ask him first

Posted

Remove the screws from the back and clean the contacts with scotch brite, it will work for another 30 years.

Don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start poking in the back of the ignition switch

Posted

Have a locksmith make you a new key.

 

took your advice on a locksmith.  My partner got the ignition out and took it to a locksmith and he was able to fix it for 12.00 dollars.  Works perfectly now.   WINNING!

 

Thanks again for all who gave me much needed advice.  Now I get to return the 350 ignition I bought Sat.  

  • Like 2
Posted

Fantastic! I had always assumed (and been told) that when the key started falling out it was time for a new switch.

Thanks for posting. Like Cliffy said, I guess I'm not too old to learn either!

Posted

This bit of information is very likely to be of use to a large number of us over the years. Thanks for posting.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Remove the screws from the back and clean the contacts with scotch brite, it will work for another 30 years.

 

Thanks for the tip. I've been chasing an intermittant starting issue for a little while now. During annual last week I replaced the battery, starter, engine ground strap, and starter relay only to find the problem still exists! After reading N201MKTurbos post, I disassembled my starter switch, cleaned the contacts, added a dab of dielectric grease before reassembly.  Switch has never worked better!!!Problem solved!!! P.S. lightly used sky-tec 149-12LS starter for sale $200

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