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My plane has started an avionics upgrade today, which includes a GTN 750xi, so I will be selling the GTN 750 that is being removed. It has been installed for under 100 hrs, and performs flawlessly. Will sell complete with new install kit/antenna. $12,500. Owner of avionics shop flew plane back to shop so will verify. In addition, a PS8000BT is being removed and replaced with a remote audio panel. Will be complete and include rack. $1,350. Also removing KFC 150 3 servo Auto Pilot. $2,500 obo. Would be willing to consider selling separately, bundling, or fair offers. PM for phone number to talk or text! UPDATE: PSE 8000BT is SOLD

This video shows how the dual Garmin GI-275’s perform superbly in an RNAV approach into KFHB in low IFR conditions getting me down to minimums. The scan is easy and clear. Horizontal and vertical deviation indicators on both the ADI and HSI are clear and easy to fly with. The KFC 150 autopilot is driven perfectly by the top GI-275 (ADAHRS+AP). Just remember to put autopilot in APR mode once the Navigator (in my case a 530W) shows an approach mode such as LPV!!

Avionics for sale: KFC150 autopilot $4995, Yaw Damper $1395, Shadin MiniFlow-L $795, KI256 AI $$795, Davtron 800 clock $145

Hello all, sadly long time no visit to MS for me... I am in need of some (ok maybe a lot of) help, during my BFR (yea I know they may call it something else now) this past Wednesday during a hold to an approach I utilized the CWS then disconnected the autopilot. The electric trim never worked again. So today I decided to see if I could figure out why. I was by myself and could not be in both the tail section and the cockpit at the same time but I am sure I could hear the trim motor running. The autopilot will self test and pass like normal. I have not attempted to see if the autopilot will function in flight. I do not hear what I recall as the slight noise of a relay when I try to run the trim. Today I engaged the autopilot on the ground and could hear a distinct clutch engagement of some servo but it is not the trim servo as the control wheel does not move. Also during the self test I believe I can hear the trim servo test fwd and rev as it normally does. As I spent most of the day removing the switch, checking the wires and connections in the yoke etc. I disassembled the switch which comprised of a very simple set of 3 type C micro switches, fed by +12VDC, two wires on what I believe are the clutch and autopilot feedback on one switch and cross connected to the adjacent two same configuration switches in reverse settings feeding two wire to what I presume are direction control for the trim servo. On the side I would never pay 500 - 800 for this switch it is very simple setup, I would suspect it can be easily rebuilt for 50 or less. SW1, 12vdc center post (NO), Green wire top post (C=common), White/B wire bottom post (NC) (I call this the clutch / power control switch) The green wire (C) and the White/B wire must be a connection in order for the autopilot to complete and pass its test. Does not matter the position of the Up / Dwn switch as the (C) of SW1 provides 12vdc to both of the (NO) contacts on the adjacent switches. SW2 & SW3 have identical wiring that allows for positive and discrete contacts with used in conjunction with SW1 in either position. What I am looking for is any info on the clutch relay or whatever is utilized to control the servo clutch on for the electric trim. Where is it located what does it look like. Is it the disconnect relay if you will similar to what I had on my Century Auto Pilot in my Piper Saratoga? Any tips and recommendations on where and how to troubleshoot this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Lacee / RocketAviator

Hi guys, I have a Mooney M20K with an HSI and KFC150. It always passes the auto check fine on the ground and all. My issue is when I’m flying an ILS approach and want the autopilot to fly it. The localizer bars come online many miles out and the plane turns and tracks down that just fine. At about 10 miles out the glide slope bar on the KI206 (secondary VOR/localizer/GS) indicator pops up showing I’m below the glideslope which is normal but the glideslope flag on the HSI is still showing. After a few more miles and when I’m usually above the glideslope the glideslope bar on the HSI finally decides to wake up. By then it’s too late for it to couple to the autopilot and have the GS light come on and for the autopilot to track the glideslope although it’s still tracking the localizer. Sometimes I’ll use the control wheel steering button to “nose dive” a bit so the plane will descend down through the glide slope and then the GS light on the autopilot will come on and then it will take over and fly the plane down to the runway. It’s like the signal to the Glideslope portion of the HSI is weak or something. Isn’t it the same antenna as the KI206? Then today I flew it and the GS light on the autopilot won’t come on at all whether I fly down through the glideslope or not and the autopilot never does connect and follow the glideslope although the localizer is tracking fine. (The GS light isn’t burned out). When I took it to the avionics shop about 8 years ago they did an “overhaul” on the HSI and “turned up the signal” whatever that means and said they didn’t see any thing wrong with it although they didn’t fly it. They said it could be that some moron painted the fin type antennas on the tail with metallic paint. I removed the paint and it didn’t make much difference plus the KI206 seems to work just fine. Is it possible to swap the wiring from that portion of the HSI with the KI206 and see if it behaves differently? Any ideas? I’d greatly appreciate any help. Thanks. Jay

Can anyone recommend an avionics shop with strong King autopilot experience on the West Coast/Mountain region? I have had my M20J in at a local shop for almost 3 months getting a Garmin 345x installed and its King KFC150 repaired. They do not have the King test equipment and are having to work manually. They sent the KFC-150 off to Autopilots Central. It appears that APC did a good job and turned the box around rapidly but my local shop is really struggling with diagnosing some other issues with the servos. I speak to them almost every day. They are not inspiring confidence and I feel like I need to make a change. I would like to find a shop that actually has the King test equipment. I know this is not common. I have called all the shops I am aware of in the Pacific Northwest but no joy. I have tried King and they were not able to help. Any suggestions of shops I could take the plane to would be much appreciated. Trevor

My wonderful KFC150 is failing the self test. I've been through the various threads here, and done some trouble shooting, as well as visiting the local avionics shop. The locals were helpful, but are NOT a King dealer and don't have the appropriate test gear to adequately diagnose the specific problem. They did let me know "it's broken"... So, I'm looking for a reputable King dealer in/around metro Atlanta. I've tried Precision Avionics in Griffin, but Scotty's so backed up, he won't even let me schedule an appointment for the next month. Epps (KPDK) sounds good over the phone, but I have no experience with them. I have spoken with Autopilot Central in Tulsa, but that's a looooong way to go for what will hopefully be an easy fix. If not, I'll head over there. Any others, or recommendations? Thanks

On my last flight of the day Wednesday I had a trim failure alarm on my KFC150 autopilot. The autopilot had always worked fine before that. The trim light just blinks during the self test and when I push the test switch all the lights illuminate and then the command bars fall out of view and the trim light constantly blinks again. The electric trim still works. I recycled the breaker Wednesday and flew a number of legs today so it has been electrically recycled a number of times now with no improvement. My manual trim wheel seems stiffer than I recall but I rarely use it since I have electric trim, which works fine. My avionics guy can't get to it for while. Is there somewhere I can lube and see if the manual trim gets easier and maybe the autopilot will work again if something is just binding or dry. If so, I assume removing the belly panel (one piece belly) and looking up in there, something may be obvious ? Thoughts ?

Adjusting the King KFC150 Autopilot View File DIY. Submitter floridaflyer Submitted 08/23/2016 Category Avionics

King KFC150 Autopilot Installation Manual View File Revision 3, September 1996 KFC 150 installation manual.pdf Submitter floridaflyer Submitted 08/23/2016 Category Avionics

Hi all, we are having trouble with an avionic upgrade in our M20J replacing an old Trimble2000 GPS with a newer GNS530W. A KI525 HSI is installed with an KFC150 Autopilot. After flying back from the shop, we found that "automatic roll steering" was gone !?? Meaning the autopilot (KFC150) flying a multileg programmed flight plan (or any procedure like SID etc.) without any manual intervention for lateral steering. This used to work and does no longer! The A/P tracks the magenta GPS line in AP "NAV" mode, but does so only after a manual intercept course has been setup. After a waypoint turn >25 degree tracking is lost. The shop has "removed" a box labeled "GPS Box", which was connected to the NAV/GPS Switch. (which also has been removed). This apperently was an interface REQUIRED for automatic roll steering, converting the Arinc429 digital GPS signal to an analog input that the KFC150 wants. That we know by now, the box does something similar to the GDC31 adapter. http://www.peter2000.co.uk/aviation/tb20-experience/gdc31.pdf The avionics shop obviously lacks experience and knowledge to connect things correctly but also we and they lack WIRING documentation for this "GPS Box". (no other labeling or manufacturer visible). What I would like to know from fellow Mooniacs WITH KFC/KAP150 and GARMIN430/530 and working automatic roll steering is: What additional adapter equipment (other than GDC31) do YOU use / have installed to make it work? (make and model) Would be able to provide a link or a PM for wiring documentation for YOUR working adaptor? We hope to find somebody using the same adapter box we have (and trace the documentation this way). Thanks for your help Joe