
Heloman
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Everything posted by Heloman
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Rebuilding Paramount Master Cylinder
Heloman replied to Grandmas Flying Couch's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
???? I'm only saying that O-ring doesn't go there, there is another type that does hold an O-ring, the brass piece looks different than yours. I'm not saying they're interchangeable, maybe they are, but probably not; good luck. -
Is this a oil cooler restrictor plate?
Heloman replied to Brian E.'s topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
FYI...I see pics of properly installed oil coolers here - according to the Mooney parts manual, or improperly installed-according to Pacific oil cooler. They refused my cracked 40 hr oil cooler for warranty because they said I had improperly installed it without "pinch tubes and long bolts that span all the way across to both sides of the mount channel." I told them it was mounted per the manual, and we went back and forth a little bit about it, and in the end they took care of me. Point of the story is... they have a point, minor hardware change here may save some cracked oil coolers. -
Rebuilding Paramount Master Cylinder
Heloman replied to Grandmas Flying Couch's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
There's a different style that holds an O-ring. Not sure if you could replace just that piece, I might have one. -
A few years ago I was a very new pilot and wanted a Mooney, I was set on a E,F,J but couldn't find one I liked when a nice C came up for sale close by. I ended up buying it, and I think in a lot of ways it's worked out for the best. Being among the least complex maintenance wise has eased the transition into ownership. My only fault with it is that I am in the minority that has no problem flying for 4,5+ hours nonstop if I need to get someplace, and it doesn't have the tanks for that. An F with 12 more gallons and the ability to fly lean of peak could provide around two more hours endurance.
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Fuel transducer routing in an M20C
Heloman replied to Dave Morris's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I found the only way I could meet all the requirements of the JPI instructions, was to route it behind the oil sump with straight lengths of fuel line on each side using two 90 degree fittings before and after the required straight sections, than it loops back to the carb, seems ridiculous but I don't believe any other way fully meets all requirements in a less ridiculous fashion. You kind of need to make your own fuel lines upon install to work this mess out somewhat cleanly.Too bad we can't mount the flow meter vertically... -
The minor change kit you get with the shoulder harnesses has a clamp that attaches to a tube to mount the initial reel or upper shoulder mount. The nut that goes on this clamp is a PIA to get a nut on because it's behind the interior panel, LASAR sells one that has the nut welded in place. That dumb nut was the worst thing about the shoulder harnesses. I've since changed to the LASAR clamps with the welded nut, thanks to the guys here on MS... and LASAR.
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I was doing a little work with them and convinced them to take me for a flight, I got about an hour of flight time and did three water landings and one back at the factory. The airplane is very easy to fly. I describe it as feeling like flight simulator set to easy, it performed well for it's purpose, very light on the controls, made my C model feel like a tank in comparison. I don't believe the accidents were the fault of the airplane's performance; it can circle or make a 180 degree turn in a remarkably small radius, and the stall resistance is quite something, it just sort of shakes a little as it descends with compete aileron authority. Those who have said the kind of flying one does with an ICON is inherently dangerous, flying low level with close terrain interaction, may have a point, but it sure is fun! Now if you only have 400k in your airplane budget this may not be your first pick, but if you got a few bucks and you already have an TBM, an Ultra, and Supercub, and you got an extra garage spot at your lake house...?
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Ridiculous sure, but shaking the tree certainly wont leave him with any less Mooneys than he has now.
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Garmin 530W Anyone ever seen this problem?
Heloman replied to plumberpilot's topic in General Mooney Talk
I had my screen go out on my 430w, but it looked a little different than that, sort of like it was faded out. Anyway, sent it to Garmin for overhaul and it came back looking and operating like new, I'm guessing you'll need to do the same. Good luck! -
Sounds like a great setup, but you’re right it’d be nice to have an auto pilot after all that. I love my accutrak2 driven by the 430, why do you think it can’t be repaired? Maybe you can get a upgrade to your brittain to hold you over until something better comes out? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Fuel pump is two or three hours with pushing the airplane in and out, maybe the morning with a coffee breaks, but troubleshooting time can go through the roof sometimes, particularly when multiple problems exist. But you could install new wiring, new breaker, and another new pump in less time. I suspect they’re charging you for dealing with the shop you recommended as well because it was directed by you. As a side note I had my Mooney’s fuel pump overhauled by the shop in Wisconsin I believe you’re talking about and its been great. Have you questioned the charge? Good luck. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Fuel Gauges, both read wrong, but the same, when empty.
Heloman replied to Heloman's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Funny! No, my flight went as planned. Unfortunately my old C is as tricked out as it’s going to get with me as the owner. It’s got a JPI700 and an FS450 fuel flow, it’s sort of the “ultimate cheap bastard C.” I want to upgrade my plane for one with more range [emoji24], but I won’t leave this problem for someone ells to figure out. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk -
Fuel Gauges, both read wrong, but the same, when empty.
Heloman replied to Heloman's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Yes, they drop all the way down with the master off. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk -
I carefully ran each fuel tank dry on my C model during a long multi leg, flight last week. I’ve been suspicious of my fuel gages for a while. Funny thing is both stopped in the same wrong place when totally empty, a little under half a tank. I wonder if it could have the wrong senders installed? Needles don’t move off of full until someplace around half tanks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Super nice plane! Kind of surprised someone went through the expense of a one piece belly without a gear up, but looking at this F it sure looks as if no expense was spared! Any chance you'd be interested in a nice C and a pile of cash? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Electric Retractable Step Conversion
Heloman replied to takair's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Nice for the ever increasing number of people who want to remove their vacuum system. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk -
I determined the answer to this question is a Garmin GDL-82, but they haven't shipped as they're supposed to so now I'm left waiting and hoping. The install for the GDL-82, while not as simple as the sky beacon isn't too big a deal. Total with install less then 3k. The Sky Beacon will be an awesome option if it gets certified. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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High CHT temps and Baffle seal M20C
Heloman replied to jt_flyer's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I've also been trying to get takeoff temps under control in my C, all the regular things have helped incrementally, and this has become my theory as well. One thing I've noticed is when I takeoff full rich and start seeing high temps, I tend to start turning my mixture in out of habit, I'll immediately see EGTs come down a little . I've checked to be sure the mixture arm on the carburetor is fully on its stop when I push the mixture in normally and it is, it seems putting pressure on it by screwing it in a little is enough to add just a little more fuel; makes me think temps would be allot better if I could keep going with more fuel. I do have a powerflow and I talked with them about this issue because I've heard some people have had to make carb adjustments, they're adamant that I don't have this issue as long as I get the little RPM rise when the mixture's pulled on shut down. But I don't really believe Idle mixture has anything to do with it. -
Are there any Radio guys freelancing
Heloman replied to Dream to fly's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I just did exactly that to the right side of my C model, had to take a bunch of stuff apart for a repair on the the number two VOR, and I thought there was no way I was going to put it back together the way it was; had to get rid of the broken plastic. It wasn't terrible but it did take a little more time then I thought it would. When it was over, I wished I'd done the entire thing, but the right side was all I had time for. You can do it! Sorry for the bad pictures. -
If your E is a not even certified to part 23 like my C, then I disagree you even need to keep your factory CHT at all. Is it in the TCDS? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I bought an old C model with an engine overhauled by Jewel in 2007, that piece of info went into the "PRO" column when making my purchase decision. Engine has been absolutely solid. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Airplane looks great, love the modern ovation paint job, can't wait to see more! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Keep in mind, buyers noses perk up at any mention of corrosion in a log book, so many owners will never let such a write up soil their airplane. Sometimes, whoever is in control of a logbook just doesn't worry about such things so they write up some minor corrosion repair, and the airplane forever has "corrosion issues."
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Someone on here said they used plumbers putty, seemed like a good idea so I've been using it, works great, cleans out super easy and I change it at annual. When I've removed the covers between annuals, I've reformed it a little so the cover can "re-squash" it, to make a new seal.