Heloman

Wow, that's interesting.

Looks factory to me, no additional drilled holes. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

When I put the LAsar Cowl on my 68c with fixed Cowl flaps I immediately noticed higher takeoff CHTs. I rarely ever broke 400 on any cylinder according to the JPI before, no matter what i did, and I normally did short field takeoffs. Now, I routinely will go a little over 400 while working to keep temps down, both by not using short field technique, and by reducing power much earlier then I did before. Cruise temps do seem to be noticeably down. When I put the LASAR cowl on I also sealed up the doghouse baffling much better then it had been before. I sealed around the areas where the engine mounts pass through the baffling. And using a flashlight, I put foil tape everywhere I could see light coming through while looking through the cowl inlet. Is it possible that the new "inlet to fixed flap ratio" just isn't optimal for takeoff? If so, then I shouldn't be the first to experience this. I'm wondering what others with fixed flaps think about this? As an experiment, I left off the foil tape recently when I had the doghouse cover off ( which leaves a thin air gap all around the top cover the thickness of the tinnermen nuts), flying today it seemed to make no change, so I'm inclined to blame the higher takeoff temps on the cowl mod. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I actually have a second set of the Alfa "minor change kit" on the shelf too, I thought I needed two kits when I ordered them with my new belts. I've read a couple posts about this here and on the Mooney FB page, I once had a passing thought to offer the second set for free, but I thought, "no, that wouldn't be very nice." Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Get the clamps from LASAR that have a nut welded to them, fishing a nut behind the panel is a PIA. I have the regular ones now, they suck, I have the LASAR clamps on the shelf for next time.

Mine didn't work when I bought it, found a hose on the turn coordinater had worn out and got loose on the fitting. Pulled it off, cut an inch off, put it back on and works great! Start by doing a look over, might be something simple.

Nice plane, very similar to mine, you'll like it! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The motor is the most common one there is so not much issue there, some mechanics don't like working on Mooney's, I have to admit I've heard that before. The thing is you can get a nice C-F cheaper then you can get a nice 172, value wise it's sort of unreal! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's pretty but seems overpriced with that GPS. What year was the overhaul, how much has it flown in the last year, two years...?it may be a good value if the maintenance and condition are above average. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You'll know if they're around, you'll see their minivan parked in front of a different hangar everyday, lol! These are usually older guys; you probably wont find them on any website. Kind of sad if there isn't one around. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As an A&P myself I cringe a little when I read posts like this and I'm thankful, but a little sad, my career path changed direction slightly, and I don't actually work on airplanes other then my own anymore. 1. While the shop may have simply been trying to divvy up all the time they spent on your plane the best they could, the cotter pin thing was over the top and ridiculous. You itemize a couple easily accessible cotter pins on a bill like that and you deserve to be raked over the coals on an Internet forum for your stupidity! 2. I'm always a little surprised when I hear or read about people comparing their local mechanic to an actual shop. While your local mechanic working out of the back of his minivan may be responsibly insured, many are not. I was recently asked to take over the maintenance facility at my local field. Without any serious thought I refused; I'd never be able to compete with my (very good) local "minivan-mechanics" that work on most of the aircraft based on my field without any insurance or the overhead of an actual shop facility. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks! I believe that's a standard 68 and up windshield. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I just completed the LAsar Cowl closure, I snapped some pics: Here's the start, I don't mind the original look but I can't leave well enough alone, and with the promise of better cooling it was only a matter of time. It's no SM cowling but it works for today. Just laying it out to find the best fit, notice how the radii are not symmetrical, a little surprised about that, this causes a little trouble getting the stripes to look right when they come around the front but no big deal really. Fay sealed, riveted on and mostly trimmed, had to do the final trim with the upper cowling. I used the alternate AN470s rather then the countersunk rivets that came with the kit so everything would match. (Laziness may have been a factor) Here the final trim is complete, sealed, and I sprayed the gold for the stripes Laying out the stripes, I don't think this was the final version. Green De- masked Done I also painted the prop while I was at it and put on a new alternator belt, because I scheduled a prop balance for the power flow exhaust warranty. I thought I'd be trying it out by now but surprise...I had no electric fuel pump during the prop balance [emoji857]. It's off to Aeromotors for an overhaul. Got the prop down to .03 though. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk I did put new Hartzell stickers on too but I forgot the picture

I used the clamps that you need nuts for that came with the AMsafe's I bought, and they are terrible! Any time you need to remove and reinstall the side panel it's a real PIA! I was talking about this with another Mooney driver just the other day when he told me I should get the lasar clamps with the nut welded on, next time I remove the interior I'm going to swap them out.

I found it, it's a 37A19773-376

I believe so, I don't recall seeing anything in the logs that its had a conversion, maybe I;m wrong?

No they don't, they carry one like it, that's probably much better. I'm hoping someone has the lycoming manual, and can give me the actual lycoming part number.

I've been searching with no luck, does anyone know the actual Lycoming-Alternator Belt part number, for a 68C (a1d) with a factory alternator? I wish I had the correct Lyc parts manual...

No, I was just wondering if that's what they were, I suspected they not original after searching a little about them here.

??? Thanks guys!

No relocation kit for the C-model...I see the spacers in the picture on the website.

Yes, nut plates would be nice, long bolts and fiddling with pinch tubes isn't going to make things easier.

With just over 20 hours in my new 1968 C, I noticed a 3-4 inch crack in the corner radii of the extruded C-channel-mount of my oil cooler. The sad thing is, this oil cooler is less then a year old with about 40 hours time on it. I had all the records from the purchase so I called Pacific oil cooler and while they didn't warranty it they did repair it cheaply, and in the end I'm happy with their service. At first I was a little upset they wouldn't warranty it but when they explained the reason I agreed with them, and I think it's worth mentioning here so that others might not have he same problem. I was told that the oil cooler should be mounted using long bolts that run through both "legs" of the C-channel, with pinch tubes in the center to spread the load through the entire mount, my oil cooler was mounted using short bolts through the cowling and only one "leg" of the C-channel on each side. The Mooney parts manual doesn't show any detail on this so I'm not sure I can fault anyone, but in looking through the gallery here on Mooneyspace I did see other peoples oil coolers mounted the same way mine was. A few bucks in new hardware could save you an oil cooler.

http://www.trade-a-plane.com/detail/Overhaul/Carburetor/2047809.html

$845 with return shipping, Spruce was about the same.