M20F-1968

I am looking for a group response to this one. I installed the Alpha One with the HUD display just to the left of the steel tube, and slightly to the right of the forward straight-ahead visual path. It is turned very slightly so that the image (reflection of the unit itself) is centered in the HUD with only a small movement of the eyes needed to view it. I have a high panel (1 1/2" higher than most Ovations which was also used in the Bravo's for 2-3 years) so my visibility over the panel is less than most Mooneys. My parts were removed from a 1998 Ovation. I did not want to obstruct the straight-ahead view any further. Alpha Systems states that they install these units dead center in the forward view so you are forced to look through the unit. In what positions have others installed these units, how did it work out, and what is the consensus of the best installation in a Mooney? I have posted a picture of my installation below. I will try to get a couple of pictures from the pilot's seat. John Breda

There is an STC that I almost installed when I did my modifications. Not sure I have it in my documentation. I'm sure it would take some time to fined, but such a modification does exist. John Breda

Fur is not sewn with a typical sewing machine. A fur sewing machine is a small industrial sewing machine that make a running overlock stitch. The machines have an open architecture where the leather is placed together, fur facing fur, and held between two knurled disks that turn and advance the leather toward the next stitch. The machines are made in different models to accommodate the various thickness of hides to be sewn. Do a google search for Fur Sewing Machine and you will find some videos, used and new machines for sale. The older and quite viable machines were made in the 1930's - 1950's and were made in Germany, England, US, and elsewhere. Like with airplanes, you need to know what project you plan to do, since industrial sewing machines are made usually to make one type os stitch only, in one type or weight of fabric or leather. John Breda

I looked into this with Lycoming. Their specification is based on slippage of the belt measured with a torque wrench on the nut which holds the pulley onto the alternator. The specification is different for a new v. a minimally used belt. Belt tension is adjusted so that the belt slips at the appropriate torque setting. I have the specifications written down somewhere. Probably easier to call Lycoming or Continental and ask depending upon the engine you have.

I have this heat shield, which is part of my turbo system, which is not made very well. The clamps keep cracking due as they are clamped onto the hot exhaust pipe, and the clamps used are thin. I've set out to try to make a more durable part. I purchased some 2-inch 304 stainless steel muffler clamps, which are designed for motorcycle mufflers. These have not arrived yet, but we'll see how good they are when I get them. I need someone who has the ability to weld 304 stainless steel. Can anyone assist? My cell phone number is 617-877-0025. You can also contact me here. John Breda

A year ago I had the pully on my alternator split in half. Turns out it was placed on the alternator ten years ago by an inept A&P in Dallas that I fired and sued. He still owes me a bunch of money on the lawsuit that I won. I thought I took apart everything he touched, but I missed the alternator pulley. It was an automative part. I replaced the pulley with a Hartzell Engine Products part, bought at Aircraft Spruce for $380.00. It is a very different part. Do not think automotive parts are adequate substitutes. John Breda

I have been thinking of adding some sheepskin seat covers to my plane, but I do not like what is currently being made commercially. First, there is very little space between the outboard side of the seats and the side panels. It is sufficiently tight to make placing a layer of sheepskin there difficult. Secondly, I do not like the loose fit and the straps. What I envision is making a fitted leather seat cover tailored to the seat which slips over the seat. I have the Ovation seats so the seat bottom is its own piece velcroed to the aluminum seat bottom. I envision making a pouch that the seat bottom slides into. Likwise, the seat back will be fitted with a tailored cover that slides over the seat from the top, and has an opening in the back allowing access to the seat pocket. The face of the seat bottom and face of the seat back will be sheepskin, and the rest of the seat cover will be regular upholstery leather which will take up less room than the sheepskin because it has no fur, but is equally as durable. I purchased a fur sewing machine to specifically complete this task. Any ideas the crowd might add to the project? John Breda

I doubt your or any E is 156 kt airplane at 10,000 ft. A J with it cowling and windshield change is 160 kts. I suspect some manufacturer marketing tactics. John Breda

You do not have to remove the bottom cowling to change oil. Install a quick-release oil drain, and reach up inside the L cowl flap with a hose, slide it onto the quick drain, push up, 1/4 turn, and drain the oil. John Breda

Please disreragd my earlier post - I screwed up the explanatioin - so much for not proof-reading....... Here ity is again with the correct information. I have a Sky-Tec starter which I installed on my engine, and about 20 hours later decided to replace my left-sided engine baffling as I hava a J model air box and air filter which really needed a different baffle and an in-line starter. The starter I am selling replaced an 8 year old starterof the same type which stumbled a couple of times and I did not want to be left with a problem away from home. It is the direct replacement for your alternator on an IO-36--A1A. I have a 1968 F model, you have a 1967 F model, both with the same engine. Mine however is turbo-normalized and has a J model air box and J model cowling. I went for several years modifying my air filter by grinding it way to make room for the solenoid. I finally made a new left-side engine baffling which was correct for the J-model air filter. This has no side mounted solenoid to impinge upon the air filter area. I then replaced the 20 hour old starter which I am selling with an in-line starter which is what was needed for my installation with the J model air filter. The air filter now sits flat on the baffling without modifications. This process left me with an essentially new Sky-Tec 12LS, 12 volt starter which is pictured below. It will take care of your problems, is lighter, spins faster than what you have, and will be reliable since it is essentially new. I can sell it for much less than new. My cell is (617) 877-0025 and my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com John Breda

I have a Sky-Tec starter which I installed on my engine, and about 209 hours later decided to replace my left-sided engine baffling as I hava a J model air box and air filter which really needed a different baffle and an in-line alternator. This is the replacement for your alternator on an IO-36--A1A. I have a 1968 F model, you have a 1967 F model, both with the same engine. Mine however is turbo-normalized and has a J model air box and J model cowling. I went for several years jerry-rigging the air filter until I made a new engine baffling on the air filter side. The alternator I am selling was swapped out after about 8 years after it stumbled once or twice. I replaced it with this one, and then shortly thereafter made a new engine baffling after my annual.The alternator pictured has 20 hours of flight time on it and is essentially new. It is a Sky-Tec 12LS, 12 volt. It will take care of your problems, is lighter, spins faster than what you have, and will be reliable since it is essentially new. I can sell it for much less than new. My cell is (617) 877-0025 and my e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com John Breda

This is a survey that cannot be interpreted. It all depends on whether the airplane is stock, has modifications, what modifications, and how many. Since the survey asks none of that, it cannot be interpreted. John Breda

The parts are available. Just see that you have back-up spare parts on the shelf. John Breda

The F model "with all the J model speed mods" is truly a J. I have a 1968 F, Johnson Bar, Hydraulic flaps, long range tanks, turbo normalized, speed brakes, etc. etc.... 10,000 ft, 100 ROP, 75% power = 160kts 10,000 ft, 100 ROP, everything forward = 168 kts 17,000 ft, 100 ROM. 75% power = 175 - ? 180 kts Take a look at my profile.... The biggest speed change is with the 201 windshield and cowling. But it a lot of work. You will not come close to what you are looking for spending $100,000 is this market. I suspect you would be hard pressed to find a very nice turn key E or F for that amount. John Breda

I hasve an extra as well. Send me some pictures of what you need and I will compare. John Breda

They are different from year to year and not all the same. John Breda

You can make new sliders with nutplates holding the wire to the sliders..... John Breda

Even with shoulder problems, the Johnson bar should be very easy to operate. I can operate my with two fingers on the bar. It took some time to understand how to rig it properly however. At the time, Mooney had two fuselage lengths, but made three different push rod lengths that hold the main grear springs. I guess there was sufficient variation that they needed to use the push rod lengths that worked the best for each plane. Also, the 1968 Johnson bar is different from the other years. That may also contribute some reasons why there were three push rods made. The 1968 Johnson bar is only in the 1968 plane. John Breda

The other thing that occurs is that the cable (solid wire) which is just melted into the plastic comes loose. John Breda

Try again, post your information here, and e-mail it to me at john.breda@gmail.com John Breda

The earlier models had a threaded end that installed into the moveable block in the trim wheel assembly. That was/is an expensive cable. By 1975 t I think mooney went to a solid cable captured by a set screw. Take it apart, inspect, remove the cable, soak in in penetrating oil, clean it, then re-lubricate it with Triflow, install it, adjust it, and lubricate it again. Everything needs to work easily. John Breda

The teflon seals are coming soon. I have been faced with a number of obstacles which I have been working my way through. If there are others wanting some of these seals PM me here on Mooneyspace so that I have everyone's information, name, address, e-mail, phone number in one place. John Breda

To be hones, I have not touched that adjustment in about 9 years. It was likely first set my my mechanic. I did however reset that cable housing so that the take-off position is set to a specific line in the indicator, and not the grey take-off "Range". In essence and in practice I limited the already set take-off "range" to a more limited line line which I have used repeatedly for 9 years. It seems with that mechanical cable, even with that limitation, there is some variability in the setting and I wanted to keep the variability to a minimum. John Breda

Fow what it is worth, I installed the co-pilot brakes in my plane when I did the rebuild. Bill Whaet pointed me to a schematic that Mooney had that did not have a shuttle valve. I used that arrangement. He advised against the shuttle valve. You might look at a different configuration of the hydraulic lines. I have had no problem at all with the configuration he recommended. John Breda

What you describe in your initial post descibes a clear problem. On take-off the plane should be trimmed so that with a slight pull of the yoke on take-off roll, flies itself off the runway with take-off flaps at about 65 kts. It should be that easy. The Trim indicator is simply a cable that reflects movement of the trim wheel. Its position means nothing unless it is set at a place and in a manner that is interpretable by the pilot. A small change in the trim wheel makes a big difference. The take-off "Range" as marked in the trim indicator is not much help. I have my trim indicator set so that the line between the grey take-off Range, and the black background color of the J model indicator is my take-off position. It is that specific and that reliable. You may need to use the travel board to adjust per specifications. But then, you will. need to find your ideal take-off trim and adjust the cable of the trim indicator to align with a specific spot on the indicator. It is not much more complicated that this. John Breda