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M20F-1968

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Everything posted by M20F-1968

  1. This is a survey that cannot be interpreted. It all depends on whether the airplane is stock, has modifications, what modifications, and how many. Since the survey asks none of that, it cannot be interpreted. John Breda
  2. The parts are available. Just see that you have back-up spare parts on the shelf. John Breda
  3. The F model "with all the J model speed mods" is truly a J. I have a 1968 F, Johnson Bar, Hydraulic flaps, long range tanks, turbo normalized, speed brakes, etc. etc.... 10,000 ft, 100 ROP, 75% power = 160kts 10,000 ft, 100 ROP, everything forward = 168 kts 17,000 ft, 100 ROM. 75% power = 175 - ? 180 kts Take a look at my profile.... The biggest speed change is with the 201 windshield and cowling. But it a lot of work. You will not come close to what you are looking for spending $100,000 is this market. I suspect you would be hard pressed to find a very nice turn key E or F for that amount. John Breda
  4. I hasve an extra as well. Send me some pictures of what you need and I will compare. John Breda
  5. They are different from year to year and not all the same. John Breda
  6. You can make new sliders with nutplates holding the wire to the sliders..... John Breda
  7. Even with shoulder problems, the Johnson bar should be very easy to operate. I can operate my with two fingers on the bar. It took some time to understand how to rig it properly however. At the time, Mooney had two fuselage lengths, but made three different push rod lengths that hold the main grear springs. I guess there was sufficient variation that they needed to use the push rod lengths that worked the best for each plane. Also, the 1968 Johnson bar is different from the other years. That may also contribute some reasons why there were three push rods made. The 1968 Johnson bar is only in the 1968 plane. John Breda
  8. The other thing that occurs is that the cable (solid wire) which is just melted into the plastic comes loose. John Breda
  9. Try again, post your information here, and e-mail it to me at john.breda@gmail.com John Breda
  10. The earlier models had a threaded end that installed into the moveable block in the trim wheel assembly. That was/is an expensive cable. By 1975 t I think mooney went to a solid cable captured by a set screw. Take it apart, inspect, remove the cable, soak in in penetrating oil, clean it, then re-lubricate it with Triflow, install it, adjust it, and lubricate it again. Everything needs to work easily. John Breda
  11. The teflon seals are coming soon. I have been faced with a number of obstacles which I have been working my way through. If there are others wanting some of these seals PM me here on Mooneyspace so that I have everyone's information, name, address, e-mail, phone number in one place. John Breda
  12. To be hones, I have not touched that adjustment in about 9 years. It was likely first set my my mechanic. I did however reset that cable housing so that the take-off position is set to a specific line in the indicator, and not the grey take-off "Range". In essence and in practice I limited the already set take-off "range" to a more limited line line which I have used repeatedly for 9 years. It seems with that mechanical cable, even with that limitation, there is some variability in the setting and I wanted to keep the variability to a minimum. John Breda
  13. Fow what it is worth, I installed the co-pilot brakes in my plane when I did the rebuild. Bill Whaet pointed me to a schematic that Mooney had that did not have a shuttle valve. I used that arrangement. He advised against the shuttle valve. You might look at a different configuration of the hydraulic lines. I have had no problem at all with the configuration he recommended. John Breda
  14. What you describe in your initial post descibes a clear problem. On take-off the plane should be trimmed so that with a slight pull of the yoke on take-off roll, flies itself off the runway with take-off flaps at about 65 kts. It should be that easy. The Trim indicator is simply a cable that reflects movement of the trim wheel. Its position means nothing unless it is set at a place and in a manner that is interpretable by the pilot. A small change in the trim wheel makes a big difference. The take-off "Range" as marked in the trim indicator is not much help. I have my trim indicator set so that the line between the grey take-off Range, and the black background color of the J model indicator is my take-off position. It is that specific and that reliable. You may need to use the travel board to adjust per specifications. But then, you will. need to find your ideal take-off trim and adjust the cable of the trim indicator to align with a specific spot on the indicator. It is not much more complicated that this. John Breda
  15. Alex, Just writing to confirm my registration for the Morning Sept 27th ATC Facilities Tour, as this will necessitate my arrival by the evening of Sept 26th. John Breda
  16. When you upgrade a Vintage Mooney you are doing it for yourself, and not as an investment. The Vintage planes, and in particulat the Vintage F model offer unique advantages as a retirement airplane. Specifically low maintenance, no electric motors or actuators. Manual systems are prone to be stable in their long term functioning. The Johnson Bar gear is an upgrade, simple, and the only aviation retractable system to which the FAA did not require a back-up. Your panel will need an upgrade but you will need to do some thinking on that. I have a highly modified 68 F model on my profile. You may want to take a look at the possibilities. John Breda
  17. Perhaps Parker can chime in on this one. We have quite a number on Mooney pilots involved in Mooneyspace. How about we take on the initiative as a group to get one of the active gear warning systems installed in as many of our planes as possible. The choices are Height Landing System, P2, and I believe there are others. Then we petition the insurers for discount pricing due to our proactive approach. John Breda
  18. Call salvage yards looking for Ovation or Acclaim yokes, shafts and the bellcrank behind the panel that connects both. The newer models have bronze bearings installed. You will need a DER for authorization but it will work. John Breda
  19. You can install the J, Ovation, or even the Acclaim yokes, but you will need the yokes, yoke shafts, and connecting assembly that the forward part of the yokes are connected to. You will also need a DER or similar to sign the installation off. I have the Ovation parts in my F model. All works well. Pictures posted in my profile. John Breda
  20. $50,000 - $70,000 differential is not much if the J has more of what you want. The biggest drawback is that you still have the F model cowling and windshield. This will make this plane a 150 kt airplane, instead of the 160 kt J. The manual J-bar is a plus. I have a 1968 F, which is highly modified and is in fact a J, but with J-bar, hydraulic flaps and turbonormalizer. It is at a minimum a 160 kt airplane, and depending upon altitude up to a 175 kt airplane at 17,000 - 18,000 ft. An F can be a very capable airplane, depending upon mods. The J has the mods, but is not as simple. I think simple is better which is why I ended up with the plane I have. But, it was a lot of work, time, and money to make it into what it is. John Breda
  21. Now that you have a medical, you should seriously consider Basic Med as this is your opportunity to a pathway with less challenges. John Breda
  22. It is not as complicated as you think. The late model J's had the Rochester senders installed. There may be a Mooney retrofit number. I had the J model Rochester senders in my airplane from the time of its rebuild. Everyone thinks that one needs to adhere to the original part numbers, but this is not true if the factory itself updated parts in later models of your plane. Find a mechanic who is experienced and he will advise you correctly. There are several Mooney shops in CA you might ask. This question can also be the subject of a phone call to shops like Don Maxwell, Top Gun, Lasar, Dugosh, etc... Don't overthink this one. As I recall, the exchange need not be anything more than a logbook entry. You should also pick up the three remaining rebuilt senders I have as they do fail and you will have a replacement on hand when you need them. The prices have gone crazy and I can sell them quite reasonably. I had them as back-ups as well but changed to CIES senders. John Breda Cell (617) 877-0025
  23. The J model Rochester senders are a direct and legal exchange. I also have three rebuilt senders that have not been installed since the rebuild if you would like them as back-ups which is recommended as they do fail. John Breda Cell (617) 877-0025
  24. I have a spin-on oil filter adapter on the Lycoming IO-360 A1A. It is not a Rajay adapter, but I think I have one if interested. John Breda Cell 617-877-0025
  25. The split ring would be threaded to accept the end of the Manfrotto articulating Magic Arm and it would have the MyGoFlight attachment for the Ipad back plate. I'll get pictures. John Breda
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